Here is a pic of the house
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TS1fm5H3RQgDqe1m8
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https://photos.app.goo.gl/TS1fm5H3RQgDqe1m8
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Insulation into 2 foot drop ceiling in garage
- Thread starter Domon
- Start date
Trials
Well-known member
Would be perfect to just spray the walls imho.
... the floor is always going to be inherently cold, if the floor slab was heated you would want to add styrofoam insulation around it, that would be code
if you did that even now you would benefit from it because it stops frost penetration.
... the floor is always going to be inherently cold, if the floor slab was heated you would want to add styrofoam insulation around it, that would be code
if you did that even now you would benefit from it because it stops frost penetration.
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That batt insulation on walls cost me 160 bucks when it was on sale. I foamed the joints
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I didn't want to spray the walls because at the time I didn't figure out where I wanted the electrical.
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I didn't want to spray the walls because at the time I didn't figure out where I wanted the electrical.
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Trials
Well-known member
I acid stained my concrete (which was rudely expensive even doing it myself) and coated it with high gloss concrete sealer (not solvent resistant) is hot water heated in the concrete and the outside perimeter is all sprayed and board styrofoam, really, really happy with it,
the entire house above is warm if your concrete floor is kept from getting cold.
Second floor above the garage is a styrofoam track type board to hold water heating pipe, completely covered in formed aluminum, you can put non insulated click floor directly on it, also very nice solution, that's an additional fire barrier btw.
the entire house above is warm if your concrete floor is kept from getting cold.
Second floor above the garage is a styrofoam track type board to hold water heating pipe, completely covered in formed aluminum, you can put non insulated click floor directly on it, also very nice solution, that's an additional fire barrier btw.
We did hardwood flooring a couple years ago all through the 2nd floor. I was thinking once a finish garage see what the room is like this winter and if still not good enough maybe take drywall down in the room and take our old insulation and spray foam all 3 walls
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Trials
Well-known member
Love that stuff! that's what I used on my decks.
Would make a nice garage floor finish for reasonable money.
I don't think foam on the side walls is worth while. Sure it may be slightly better than bat, but you still have studs as thermal leaks as well as the entire floor and door. If you really want better insulation in the garage, semi-rigid or rigid insulation over the studs covered by wallboard will be much more effective (although again, I doubt it's worth it given the huge leaks through the floor and door).
Even then, it has ~2" of insulation and a huge seal around the perimeter and between panels that can leak as well as the metal acting as a thermal bridge. You already have at least 4" of insulation in the walls. I'm not saying it wouldn't work at all, but you are well into diminishing returns.
One other thing that hasn't been mentioned, and may be why there wouldn't be an air return, is that you need the house sealed off from the garage, for potential carbon monoxide issues.
I've seen mixed recommendations about having exterior garage walls with a vapour barrier, as it might hold any existing moisture in the garage, but most agree that mould resistant materials won't hurt. e.g. paperless drywall.
I'd also be interested in your results, as I've been considering heating my garage.
It would be best to go through the code as was suggested. Another option might be to get a decent home inspector in to take a look at everything and advise you.
I've seen mixed recommendations about having exterior garage walls with a vapour barrier, as it might hold any existing moisture in the garage, but most agree that mould resistant materials won't hurt. e.g. paperless drywall.
I'd also be interested in your results, as I've been considering heating my garage.
It would be best to go through the code as was suggested. Another option might be to get a decent home inspector in to take a look at everything and advise you.
Legally, he can't have that register in there for the same reason. With a breeze blowing on the garage door and the furnace fan off, bad stuff flows back into the house. Also, even without that downside, having a register with no return puts his house into negative pressure which could cause issues with CO from other combustion appliances like the furnace, water heater or fire places being pulled into the house. It's is much much safer to just heat the garage separately (normally with an electric heater as it is only occasionally used so operating cost isn't crazy).
The register will be re-routed to be added to the room above to bring it to a total of 3 registers in the above room. I will heat the garage only when working inside with a space heater.
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All ducts in garage are spray foamed so not leaks at all. And actually when they sprayed the joists and ducts some of the foam actually when through and sprayed the trim in the room above lol.
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It doesn't appear to be that thick and any fire should have started by now. Yes it's exothermic, but that doesn't last for days. If you want to read about sad times with spray foam, look for the stories where it was sprayed too thick in a single coat, never properly cured and unleashed ungodly smells on the house for years. The only solution was manual removal (starting the house from scratch may be cheaper).
