Get manual and a parts list. Drop me an email if you can't find one,
they're all over the internet
Amal carbs are simple, if you know how to work with carbs... all modern motorcycle carbs are based on Amal mono blocks. They work the same as a Mikuni or Kiehin, just moved parts around. The pilot circuit gets clogged if they sit... just like modern carbs. DO get the modern floats.
First thing to do after dragging a old brit bike out of the shed is drain the oil sump, and clean the sump screen... the 1 1/2" bolt head on the bottom of the case. Clean that out with solvent and sieve the solvent through a coffee filter. Sorta bush league oil analysis. Wash the oil tank and oil lines out with solvent.
You can run modern gear lube (rated GL-4 ONLY) in the trans but you MUST run regular/non-detergent oil in the crank case.
You can put some oil down the sparkplug hole, but if it's been sitting for years it needs rings. Rings don't like sitting still for any length of time. Same with valve seals. (I am of the unpopular opinion that if the bike has been sitting for 10 years or more, or if you have no idea of the service record AND you want to keep the bike and ride it, you need to completely dis-assemble the motor and trans, replace all the bearings and seals, make sure everything is in spec, clean and well lubricated. These things have no real oil filter, but they DO have a dirt trap in the crank that needs to be cleaned (or you got no oil pressure to the crank)... and they run on non-detergent oil so any dirt in the oil has settled in the bottom of the crankcase and trans case...and the bearings and valves get galvanic corrosion... and the valves are dry of oil... and the rings ARE sacked. All stuff that won't make it not start, but will kill the motor/trans down the road)(the upside is the bearings and seals are standard metric sizes so available at any bearing house).
This era of bikes are simple to work on, like big lawn mower motors. If you look at the manuals they expected the owner to do their own service, which included full engine tear downs. Back in the days of lousy oil and dirty fuel you had to do a valve job every 15,000 miles.
The clutch plates are going to be stuck. Put it in gear and roll it backward as you operate the clutch, you might have to force it. It would be better to dis-assemble the clutch and clean everything and soak everything in oil. Loosening the pressure plate is finicky, read the instructions in the manual, then give a go, get REAL frustrated, read the instructions again,,, rinse and repeat. The
special clutch adjustment tool is a big flat screwdriver with a notch filed in the blade.
The petcock IS gonna leak. You can take it apart and soak the seals overnight. If it has the push/pull petcock, pull it apart and replace the leather seal with 5 or 6 orings (it will make sense when you're looking at it)
Before you try to start it, take the plugs out, remove one of the cam caps and kick it till you see oil in the head.
If you want to change anything electrical (I'm considered a Luddite, I got nothin against points and Lucas electrics) swap in a three phase stator and a Shindengen regulator(The current, very popular regulator costs more than the odd ball 50 year old stator. Figure that one out). Run the regulator connected directly to the battery and you can keep positive ground.
If you don't like points; a Boyer Bransden ignition works and everyone is familiar with them and they're cheap.
For parts I buy from
Mitch Kempf ... worlds worst website, but he really knows Triumphs. He has new, new old stock, reproduction and used parts... and Mitch is hell of a nice guy.
If you're looking for a shop to hand the bike off to: Stevie Lewis,
The Motorcycle Mechanic has lots of experience with old Triumphs.
Anything else?
