Now why couldn't someone at Hyundai have told me that?
The shift lever manipulation is the common element. It didn't show an error code but the reader wasn't available at the time of the event. The curse of the intermittent fault.
Hyundai keyless start problem
- Thread starter nobbie48
- Start date
Now why couldn't someone at Hyundai have told me that?
The shift lever manipulation is the common element. It didn't show an error code but the reader wasn't available at the time of the event. The curse of the intermittent fault.
The majority of the time, they're jaded by too many internet warriors finding wrong information online that they bring to the dealer demanding they have the fix for their problem but are way off base.
Trials
Well-known member
Have you crawled under the car to see what's under there in the way of switches on the shifter linkages?
:| or do people not normally do that?
Hyundai makes a pretty good excavator, mine works good even though it was beat to crap before I bought it,
but their cars not so much.
:| or do people not normally do that?
Hyundai makes a pretty good excavator, mine works good even though it was beat to crap before I bought it,
but their cars not so much.
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That switch is under the air box. Apparently about a half hour fix and a $50 part.
I'm on my second but both my 2013 and 2018 Santa Fe have a key the goes into the ignition.
Never quite understood the keyless thing. You have to have the keys on ya anyway so won't help me with losing mine. As for opening on approach, cute gimmicks imo
I meant for a vehicle equipped with keyless. IME when keyless gets added, the manufacturer does not install a keyed ignition. You get one or the other.
I never looked till now.. And.. I also don't see where a key would go in the ignition.
I prefer a key with a remote open fob.
1) On a tour and the Mrs. wants to take a picture. We stop and she gets out but doesn't take her fob so I can't lock the car and follow.
2) Buddy is driving with his wife and she gets out leaving the car running. He slides across and goes to Home Depot to shop. He shuts the car off but can't restart because she kept the fob. Taxi please.
I'm not sure what is cheaper for the manufacturer. Electronic items can be made all the same and then just coded. Mechanical devices need lots of parts assembled.
I figure if my physical condition has deteriorated to the point I can't carry a key and see to put it in a slot I shouldn't be driving.
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I can understand that but what I had a problem with is that I was a supposed to bring in the car and leave it at $119 an hour for ???? hours. The person I was talking to could not give me any idea of what I getting into and it escalated into a bit of a mutual snit.
If I was told that there would be a one hour charge for an evaluation and I could drive the car away after if I decided to live with the problem I would have been OK with the result.
Basically a communications error.
Now that, due to the information you provided, and a youtube video I can relate to the problem and it's no big deal.
That's the whole thing, this may fix your problem, it may not. Most likely it will, but the dealer can't commit to that. Imagine a mouse nibbled at a wire deep in the dashboard causing this issue, imagine how much time it would take to track down that wire. The dealer is always quoting you a potential worst case scenario.
I can't speak to the conversation you had with x dealership, but most of these are stated as a 1hr diagnostic, with potentially more depending on what they find. At minimum, you need to authorize the initial 1hr diag
wonderings
Well-known member
Surprised a car only has keyless and no option for a key if the keyless should fail. My mom has a 2010 Mazda hatchback that is keyless and if need you can open up a cap for a key and pull a key out of the fob to start the car.
2 fobs should not interfere, at least I know it does not interfere on my bike with keyless. When touring I will keep a spare fob in my jacket as well as my keychain and never had issue starting the bike.
2 fobs should not interfere, at least I know it does not interfere on my bike with keyless. When touring I will keep a spare fob in my jacket as well as my keychain and never had issue starting the bike.
That sounds like a good system. The vast majority have only a door cylinder (many covered by a cap) and what is likely an RFID reader somewhere for times when the remote battery has died. VW puts it where the ignition cylinder would normally be, it sounds like Hyundai/Kia place it very close to the start button.
If it was only one key causing problems, I would look into resetting it. If you lock the car with a key in it, VW automatically disables that key. To use it again, there is a process (IIRC unlock with other key, then unlock with disabled key to reenable (or maybe you have to turn the door cylinder with the disabled key?). I've never had to do it.).
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Sadly prices are like gossip. People only remember the first thing they heard.
I serviced buried cables for several decades and it started with a 2 hour chargeable check out with a report indicating a resolution and price. However the price is not guaranteed if hidden faults are found once work started. If someone wanted a guaranteed must work price they got a replacement price 10-20 times the repair cost.
People also lie. "It suddenly stopped working for no reason at all" Then you find the saw cut or drill hole and it's "Oh yeah, that"
My present Goldwing wiring is 98% stock with the changes very obvious. My first wing had numerous owners that hacked the wiring for lights, bells and whistles. Old cars are little different.
It was my bad to expect to be treated like an individual because it's more profitable to herd sheep hence the snit fest.
BTW I'm blaming the keyless ignition system but wouldn't there be an inhibitor switch on a keyed one as well? Neither should start with the car in gear.
I've never, ever, heard of a fob completely dying. A dead battery, sure, but manufacturers took that into consideration - on our Volts for example, if the battery goes so dead on the fob to the point where they won't operate normally (IE, the fob just has to be inside the car but not in any particular place) then there is a backup plan - you open the little storage compartment on the dashboard, remove the rubber liner at the bottom, and place the fob in there - it's then close enough to the transponder in the car that it can apparently read the fob, even with a dead battery in the fob itself.
The car also starts telling you a month or so in advance of the fob battery dying that it's low....popping up an alert on the dash everytime you start the car.
This isn't new technology. Once you've had a car without a traditional ignition you'll think it's archaic technology once you get used to the fob-only setup. It's nice to be able to just throw the fob in your jacket pocket and not have to actually touch it at all from them forward.
There's also other advantages - for example, I have my wife's Volt setup to automagically lock when she walks away from it. The car detects it's lost communications with the fob and after 15 seconds, all the doors lock. Considering she used to have a bad habit of leaving her doors open all night (and probably during her daily routines, as well), this is a handy feature.
Correct, keyed and keyless have an identical part that causes the same issue when it malfunctions.
Keyless systems are hugely reliable and for the most part a non-issue. Most (all?) systems will even give you a way to start the car if you take the battery out of the fob.
Key'd systems potentially have issues as well, they're not bulletproof. Ignition cylinders and/or keys wear out. The contacts in the electrical switch behind the cylinder can wear out as well. Let's not forget the massive GM ignition switch recall due to a bad design.
My KTM had a wonderful feature where it would randomly stall while riding. Took almost a whole season before the issue became consistent enough to pinpoint a bad ignition switch.
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wonderings
Well-known member
That is how it works on my BMW GSA. I have a little plastic key that has an RF chip in it. If the fob did not work for some reason I can use that RF key to start the bike by holding it in a certain place for it to be read. My bike also warns me when the battery is getting low as there is no option to use a key without the fob or RF key.
