Near barrie. I'd rather use a hydraulic press than a slide hammer as the slide will put forces in all sorts of places I don't want it. Although with some heat in the hub a few hits of the hammer may be enough. Like I said, pickup/dropoff is probably more trouble than it's worth unless you are driving past anyway (IIRC slide hammer used to be available from CT/partsource rental which would be cheaper than gas to borrow mine).
CTC locations near me have cancelled the tool loan program and Partsource near me doesn’t have the slidehammer. Culmination of unfortunate circumstances. Hydraulic press is the ideal solution and at this stage I’m not convinced the slide hammer would even do the job.
Again the offer is greatly appreciated and I may be out that way soon but probably just going to go to my local shop and wash my hands.
CTC locations near me have cancelled the tool loan program and Partsource near me doesn’t have the slidehammer. Culmination of unfortunate circumstances. Hydraulic press is the ideal solution and at this stage I’m not convinced the slide hammer would even do the job.
Again the offer is greatly appreciated and I may be out that way soon but probably just going to go to my local shop and wash my hands.
Are you trying to remove a sealed hub/bearing assembly from the knuckle? Or press out an old bearing and race?
I ask because I saw mention of the hub buster, which would be the former.
Air hammer is the key to success. Benefits are twofold. Firstly is the impact force for driving purposes, but more importantly is the secondary benefit. The super rapid hammering creates a frequency or harmonic that reduces surface friction.
This is how I do it. It has never failed me, and I've worked on some real scuzzy plow trucks and stuff.
Take a flat punch and run it around the face of the hub mounting, inwards towards the knuckle. Vary the pressure as you go around from lots to so little the bit almost leaves the surface. You may find a level of pressure where everything sort of hums. That's the perfect pressure, but it's not that critical.
Go around one direction a few times, then go the other way. If it's not to badly seized it will start to work out. If it doesn't move on to the step.
Move the flat punch to the side and try to spin the hub in the bore of the knuckle. Again vary the pressure applied to change the vibration frequency. Try clockwise and counter clockwise. Most stubborn hubs are moving at this point. And once it moves its just a matter of working it.
If it's still not behaving, switch to a chisel. Preferably not a real sharp one. Try to work this along the face of the knuckle, under the hub mount. The sideways force along with the wedge of the chisel will prevail. It may take time and a bunch of locations but it will work.
You can do the same with a hammer and punch, but it's tedious. That vibration is a real benefit.
Near barrie. I'd rather use a hydraulic press than a slide hammer as the slide will put forces in all sorts of places I don't want it. Although with some heat in the hub a few hits of the hammer may be enough. Like I said, pickup/dropoff is probably more trouble than it's worth unless you are driving past anyway (IIRC slide hammer used to be available from CT/partsource rental which would be cheaper than gas to borrow mine).
Hydrauluc press is my last choice -- you have to pull the whole knuckle and you're going to put some ball joints at risk.
I like threaded bearing pullers -- set it in place and use an impact wrench to pull the bearing. If that's not an option for your hub, the slide hammer and a torch will pull her. The forces you can put on a slide hammer are nothing for a steering system -- Popeye couldn't come close to generating as much force on a slide hammer as you hitting a pothole at 20KMhr.
Sealed hub bearing from the knuckle. This one has been a real b****. Appreciate the detailed post very much. In an ideal world I would have taken it to the old man’s shop but at this point it’s probably easier/cheaper to take it to my mechanic.
I like working on my own vehicles but certain jobs just get to a point of diminishing returns. I think that’s where I’m at with this one lol
Hydrauluc press is my last choice -- you have to pull the whole knuckle and you're going to put some ball joints at risk.
I like threaded bearing pullers -- set it in place and use an impact wrench to pull the bearing. If that's not an option for your hub, the slide hammer and a torch will pull her. The forces you can put on a slide hammer are nothing for a steering system -- Popeye couldn't come close to generating as much force on a slide hammer as you hitting a pothole at 20KMhr.
A/O torch would def had done the job but unfortunately don’t have one at home, another item in the old man’s shop so I never really felt the need to buy/store one
Guess you can't believe everything you watch on the internet. Now I have doubts about doing my Subaru hubs, which are supposedly one of the most difficult ones to do. And these things have been in there for at least 7 winters and 120,000 km's, possibly longer.
Guess you can't believe everything you watch on the internet. Now I have doubts about doing my Subaru hubs, which are supposedly one of the most difficult ones to do. And these things have been in there for at least 7 winters and 120,000 km's, possibly longer.
A/O torch would def had done the job but unfortunately don’t have one at home, another item in the old man’s shop so I never really felt the need to buy/store one
Does that include the knuckle? I believe his hub/bearing is an assembly like on my Subaru that won't be reused. Heat also seems to be the only way to remove rusty the ball joint pinch bolts on my Subaru.
Does that include the knuckle? I believe his hub/bearing is an assembly like on my Subaru that won't be reused. Heat also seems to be the only way to remove rusty the ball joint pinch bolts on my Subaru.
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