How much mileage is too much mileage? | GTAMotorcycle.com

How much mileage is too much mileage?

Jampy00

Jampy00

Well-known member
Site Supporter
Hypothetical question.

If looking at a vehicle (non motorcycle) what would be your cut off for mileage?

For the sake of simplicity let's say:
  • everything else was in working order.
  • no shady business.
  • vehicle was clean and had a proper safety done.
  • decent maintenance records
While we all know there are many rabbit holes we can dive down, Let's stay focused on mileage (odometer)
Also we know there are many engines out there some better than others, so if you have a make/model in mind, please share it. But focus on gasoline, not diesels..

I'm considering a used vehicle no make or model selected next year and I've never owned anything with "high mileage" so I'm curious...
 
Last edited:
For me, the average would be 200,000km but there are of course a lot of variables that can move that 100,000km in either direction.

Overall condition, make, model, engine, maintenance, where it was serviced, city vs highway, my intended use, how hot the seller is, etc.

Edit, typo...
 
Last edited:
100 to 150,000 km would be my cutoff. I usually try to keep a vehicle up to 300,000 if I can.
It must have maintenance records and not in rough shape. If things like seats or seatbelts are very worn then it tells me it was used for short trips.
The car I have now is a 2015 Subaru Forester that I bought with 115,000 standard tranny. No once wants standard anymore it seems. I got it at a Subaru dealer in 2019 and now have 225,000 and brake job was only thing done so far.
 
Lightcycle said:
Mileage wouldn't be my first indicator for buying used.

Maintenance and proof of service would be number one.
Click to expand...
Ok, but what would be your mileage cutoff if the vehicle had decent maintenance records...
We all know many things have to be checked before the purchase of any vehicle.
As stated in my post never purchased a vehicle with "higher" mileage, so that is what my focus is on.
 
Jampy00 said:
Ok, but what would be your mileage cutoff if the vehicle had decent maintenance records...
We all know many things have to be checked before the purchase of any vehicle.
As stated in my post never purchased a vehicle with "higher" mileage, so that is what my focus is on.
Click to expand...
I don't have a hard line. Like Brian p said, it depends on many factors. As a daily, it has to be reliable number one. If it passes that bar, acceptable mileage depends on price. I've sold vehicles between 250 and 350k depending on how they were behaving.
 
Personally I'd go upto 200k depending on the year and make. A 200k Chrysler is not the same as a 200k toyota for example. If you can get 100 to 150k out of a used vehicle I'd be happy.
 
Jampy00 said:
Hypothetical question.

If looking at a vehicle (non motorcycle) what would be your cut off for mileage?

For the sake of simplicity let's say:
  • everything else was in working order.
  • no shady business.
  • vehicle was clean and had a proper safety done.
  • decent maintenance records
While we all know there are many rabbit holes we can dive down, Let's stay focused on mileage (odometer)
Also we know there are many engines out there some better than others, so if you have a make/model in mind, please share it. But focus on gasoline, not diesels..

I'm considering a used vehicle no make or model selected next year and I've never owned anything with "high mileage" so I'm curious...
Click to expand...
I've had a couple vehicles with 500,000 on bought near 300,000. Our van has approximately 280,000 on it now. My experience most vehicles with higher mileage have had all the important things replaced like shocks etc condition is much more important than mileage. I have personally never been stranded by a vehicle and they were always still working when I sold them after I was done. Three were gm one Toyota. The Toyota was using a lot of oil at 520000 when sold.

Sent from the future
 
Maintenance is more important than mileage.
I can run a car into the ground in about month, or I can keep well maintained car virtually forever
My daily drivers are a '84 G body and a Astro van with 450,000k. I used to own cabs, I have owned several million K cars. I put 1,200,000k on a Kcar, one bottom end and 3 sets of pistons, and many many timing belts... I got good at doing timing belts
The body is a concern in modern cars, as everything is unitized construction, so a rusty panel can compromise the integrity of the body.
You can replace a motor or a trans or even a K member, but once the body goes, it's done. Modern cars with groovy electronics REALLY don't like rust. Rust is worse on a modern car than on your dad's Chev.
Newer low mileage cars you can get away with not doing maintenance. If you want to keep it, do the maintenance and pretty well any car will go 500,000k.
 
Jampy00 said:
Ok, but what would be your mileage cutoff if the vehicle had decent maintenance records...
We all know many things have to be checked before the purchase of any vehicle.
As stated in my post never purchased a vehicle with "higher" mileage, so that is what my focus is on.
Click to expand...

I don't really have a cutoff when it comes to mileage. The higher the odometer, the lower the sale price will have to be, all things being equal.

I sold my last 12GS with 250,000 kms on the odometer, I decided to let it go for just $3000. At that price, it was worth it for the new buyer to fix whatever needed to be done to make it run as good as new, and still have a well-running BMW GS that would last a few more years.
 
Depends on a lot of factors. How much are you paying, what your expectations of the vehicle are, what make, age of the vehicle, and the maintenance records are some of my key considerations.

The nuggety-est of nuggets I've ever owned was a 1997 Honda Civic that had 275k on the odo, but turned out it was rolled back at least another 100k. I paid $700 for it, and ran it for 2 years doing routine maintenance only, and then sold it for scrap for $200. For me, $500 was money well spent on a daily that sipped gas, I can park anywhere in Toronto with windows down and doors unlocked.
 
Depends on my own needs. If it’s occasional driving for towing a trailer for example, I’m good with an old work horse that has the usual high mileage wear items up to snuff. Old Cummins diesel pick up with 500k on the clock with a newer transmission and no rust for a cheap price? I’ll take a chance.

If it’s a commuter car that could see the road 500 clicks a week? Even a reliable Toyota Corolla with 300k might be a pass for me.

I suppose as long as the vehicle has a decent parts supply for wear items and the bones are decent and price, 200k is around my limit. Garage kept, under coated, well maintained, long time owner etc. just depends on the purpose and the price point before I simply walk because of the number on the odo.
 
I’d say it depends on the what you want that vehicle to do . Farm truck? If maintained , does really matter . Second car , again if looked after doesn’t matter . Weird Italian or German car ? Well that’s going to matter . Engine rebuild on a chev truck right now 9k ish . Engine rebuild on a Benz C350 AMG , well that’s about 40k .


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
 
Aren't maintenance records easily faked? Anyone could scribble a bunch of stuff in a notebook and print off some fake receipts.
 
danp said:
Aren't maintenance records easily faked? Anyone could scribble a bunch of stuff in a notebook and print off some fake receipts.
Click to expand...
It's data. Sure, you're not going to be able to verify whether somebody did ten oil changes or one, but you can corroborate other stuff. Like do these tires seem two years old like the book claims
 
crankcall said:
I’d say it depends on the what you want that vehicle to do . Farm truck? If maintained , does really matter . Second car , again if looked after doesn’t matter . Weird Italian or German car ? Well that’s going to matter . Engine rebuild on a chev truck right now 9k ish . Engine rebuild on a Benz C350 AMG , well that’s about 40k .


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Click to expand...
This will be farm truck, no way I am paying what they are asking for new, we're setting a budget of $5000.00 for next year.
We're keeping our existing vehicles so this third vehicle will likely never see 20K KM's for the duration of it's life with me.
Already know many of the pitfall area's to look out for, but mileage is a new one to me as in that budget range I'm seeing 200 to 340 thousand KM's. So figured I'd ask and see opinions.
 
Jampy00 said:
This will be farm truck, no way I am paying what they are asking for new, we're setting a budget of $5000.00 for next year.
We're keeping our existing vehicles so this third vehicle will likely never see 20K KM's for the duration of it's life with me.
Already know many of the pitfall area's to look out for, but mileage is a new one to me as in that budget range I'm seeing 200 to 340 thousand KM's. So figured I'd ask and see opinions.
Click to expand...
From what I have seen on recent trucks, the rust will kill it before it dies mechanically. The obstacle.with a truck that cheap is being able to get past the safety to plate it. After that, probably good forever. Make sure you drive it a bunch. Old guy nearby kept his farm truck for truck things. It moves once a month and costs him thousands a year in maintenance as things keep seizing up.
 
I grew up on a farm , with farm trucks . They like to be used , doesn’t have to be regular, but sitting outdoors isn’t great .
Biggest problem is all trucks in the last 25yrs have way too many extras , it’s almost impossible to find a basic anything , and it’s all the extras that screw up. Single cab long box would be your friend , ex construction trucks . But careful about idling time , you’ll see trucks with 150k on the clock but 2 bazillion hours idling on site.


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
 
TwistedKestrel said:
It's data. Sure, you're not going to be able to verify whether somebody did ten oil changes or one, but you can corroborate other stuff. Like do these tires seem two years old like the book claims
Click to expand...
The tires have a date code but an ex neighbour used to start his car on a cold morning and must have put a brick on the gas pedal while he shaved so it would be warmed up for his driving. I got goosebumps listening to it scream.

Small block GMs have good reputations but I don't know about transmissions. If it was just going to be a workhorse I wouldn't worry about air conditioning, radios, cooling systems etc.

For a safety brakes including emergency, tires, windshield, lights, steering and exhaust have to be in order. Body work can't be hazardous to touchy fingers.

Watch out for rusted frames unless you have a rotisserie and welder. An experienced mechanic goes straight for those. If the frame is rusted through there's little sense in pulling brake drums.

IMO good $5000 vehicles are private sale ones. The owner decided to move up and the dealer is offering $50 for a trade in. The vehicle needs tires, brakes and a windshield for a safety so not worth it for a legitimate dealer.

For the occasional P/U user renting or a trailer is sometimes the best, especially when insurance kicks into the equation. In the city the musical chairs of freeing up the needed vehicle was a PITA.

Being close to public transit and being retired we went one car a few years ago. The insurance savings alone would pay for rentals when needed. Rent what you need at the moment. Cube van, pickup, minivan etc.

The biggest advantage of not owning a pickup is people can't borrow it or ask you to move their grand piano.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top Bottom