Now my only concern with the new config, I had to push down the p-trap because the weeper connecction is lower then the exit, which forces the water level in the trap up, high enough it's level with the T fitting going into the weeper connection. I have dumped a few buckets of water down there and the level stays so I am guessing the trap is working and forcing the water to the exit. Unless the water is going back down the weeper and just filling up the rest of the system, not sure since it stays level, and I sure there is a slope built in since it works on gravity.
Now my only concern with the new config, I had to push down the p-trap because the weeper connecction is lower then the exit, which forces the water level in the trap up, high enough it's level with the T fitting going into the weeper connection. I have dumped a few buckets of water down there and the level stays so I am guessing the trap is working and forcing the water to the exit. Unless the water is going back down the weeper and just filling up the rest of the system, not sure since it stays level, and I sure there is a slope built in since it works on gravity.
How much water is going into your floor drain? If you have a lot from above, it fills the weeper before it goes out the drain. Most floor drains don't have a lot from above unless you are in the middle of a major event (eg burst pipe). Ideally exit pipe would be below weeper so weeper sits empty instead of full but you are way better than you were before.
How much water is going into your floor drain? If you have a lot from above, it fills the weeper before it goes out the drain. Most floor drains don't have a lot from above unless you are in the middle of a major event (eg burst pipe). Ideally exit pipe would be below weeper so weeper sits empty instead of full but you are way better than you were before.
Nothing really. It's just there to have a floor drain. The little pipe you see in the photos above is a line from the laundry machine tap to prime the p trap. Other then that, that's it. The floor drain will be capped.
Yes I agree as well. Unfortunately I cannot move the exit or the weeper points. But at least now the water from the weeper has someplace to go instead of emptying under the slab. I've looked at it several ways an I cannot think of a different way to solve this.
I'm going to leave it open until tomorrow to see if the water level changes before I seal it up.
Good job @sburns. My only question is whether it would be worth to replace the cap with a check valve type system? In case water does get into the basement and toward the drain, it would allow it to flow out into the drain instead of pooling at the lowest point and increasing in size?
Good job @sburns. My only question is whether it would be worth to replace the cap with a check valve type system? In case water does get into the basement and toward the drain, it would allow it to flow out into the drain instead of pooling at the lowest point and increasing in size?
I would definitely install a bpv if I was into a floor drain. Very little downside, potentially huge upside. Although, with the weeper tied in, ideally I would want something before that connection as a weeper full of $#!t is not ideal.
Anybody know how I could get my hands on 'as-built' drawings of my houses? City of Mississauga (3-1-1) stated that they only keep records for 7 years. I'm waiting for 'Freedom of Information' to return my call, and will be also calling the Building Permit department to check if they have them (unlikely but worth a shot).
Outside of finding the original designer/builder...I think I'm SOL. House was built around the 1958 mark apparently, and I'd like to see if weepers were standard at that point in time.
I would definitely install a bpv if I was into a floor drain. Very little downside, potentially huge upside. Although, the the weeper tied in, ideally I would want something before that link as a weeper full of $#!t is not ideal.
You can also put in a check valve on the weeper before it enters the drain. I've seen BPV that fit inside of a horizontal line. Used to sell them years ago back back in the day.
Anybody know how I could get my hands on 'as-built' drawings of my houses? City of Mississauga (3-1-1) stated that they only keep records for 7 years. I'm waiting for 'Freedom of Information' to return my call, and will be also calling the Building Permit department to check if they have them (unlikely but worth a shot).
Outside of finding the original designer/builder...I think I'm SOL. House was built around the 1958 mark apparently, and I'd like to see if weepers were standard at that point in time.
I got them for my house. They bear a passing resemblance to what is constructed. Proper as-builts are expensive, I've never seen a set that matched a finished building.
When requesting drawings from the municipality, I had to ask for specific drawings. I asked for anything for permits and that was no bueno. I asked to flip through the file and I could mark what I wanted, no bueno (privacy concerns!). I gave up and asked for architectural, mechanical and site plan from initial construction permit. $20 and a week wait and they were in my inbox with private information (eg. name of builder) redacted.
I got them for my house. They bear a passing resemblance to what is constructed. Proper as-builts are expensive, I've never seen a set that matched a finished building.
Your house is very recent though, so should not be a major issue to find them. My issue is the house is so old, the builder/engineer is probably dead (if I found them).
Your house is very recent though, so should not be a major issue to find them. My issue is the house is so old, the builder/engineer is probably dead (if I found them).
It was between 10 and 15 years old when I requested the drawings. During the home inspection, the old owners left out the landscape drawings that were approved as part of the pool permit. They bear almost no resemblance to what is constructed. Building department here seems to approve drawings and then sign off on complete projects even if they don't match.
Good job @sburns. My only question is whether it would be worth to replace the cap with a check valve type system? In case water does get into the basement and toward the drain, it would allow it to flow out into the drain instead of pooling at the lowest point and increasing in size?
I was worried about low flow application and whether it would open up. None issue. The drain from the furnace also dumps into the drain and it's a trickle, but opens up the rubber with no issue.
I was worried about low flow application and whether it would open up. None issue. The drain from the furnace also dumps into the drain and it's a trickle, but opens up the rubber with no issue.
That's probably good to keep it from sticking. I'd poke the other one a few times a year to make sure it moves easily. Enough water will pop it open even if stuck but I want it to deal with the trickle if possible.
That's probably good to keep it from sticking. I'd poke the other one a few times a year to make sure it moves easily. Enough water will pop it open even if stuck but I want it to deal with the trickle if possible.
The one in the laundry has about 2-3" of water buildup before it starts overflowing, and the cleanout has about 6-8" before it starts overflowing. But good call on opening them up to prevent sticking (and just making sure nothing happens).
I was worried about low flow application and whether it would open up. None issue. The drain from the furnace also dumps into the drain and it's a trickle, but opens up the rubber with no issue.
For me this drain doesn't get use by any applications, my furnace drains someplace else, a custom made drain just for it.
But good to know this back up valve works.
How much water is going into your floor drain? If you have a lot from above, it fills the weeper before it goes out the drain. Most floor drains don't have a lot from above unless you are in the middle of a major event (eg burst pipe). Ideally exit pipe would be below weeper so weeper sits empty instead of full but you are way better than you were before.
Are you sure he's better off? I would think the weeper low point is at the connection to the existing drain, from there it's up hill. I'm guessing a couple of things will happen:
1) Sewer gas will move into into the house if the weepers have another connection to the sewers.
2) Anything draining into that floor drain will move to the weeping side instead of the drain side.
The proper way to deal with this is forming or buying a small sump pit to capture the effluent from the weepers, then use a pump to eject it outside or into the existing drain -- really no other way to make water flow uphill.
Another option would be to compute the slope on the existing drain then run a 2" ABS pipe beside until the level of the weeper is at the same as the drain.
Are you sure he's better off? I would think the weeper low point is at the connection to the existing drain, from there it's up hill. I'm guessing a couple of things will happen:
1) Sewer gas will move into into the house if the weepers have another connection to the sewers.
2) Anything draining into that floor drain will move to the weeping side instead of the drain side.
The proper way to deal with this is forming or buying a small sump pit to capture the effluent from the weepers, then use a pump to eject it outside or into the existing drain -- really no other way to make water flow uphill.
Another option would be to compute the slope on the existing drain then run a 2" ABS pipe beside until the level of the weeper is at the same as the drain.
I guess I will find out the hard way....hopefully not.
I put a clean out cap on this floor drain, so any gases will be trapped. There is nothing draining to there otherwise.
But if there is another point I am not sure.
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