Gas Code Question

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CruisnGrrl said:
clean up the house a little... my wood burner cost me about $1000 with everything including WETT inspection but the chimney was already exhisiting. Has added to enjoyment, physical fitness and we had no issues when the power was out, though hooking the furnace up to a generator probably would have been less strenuous, thinking of making a plug that I can unplug the furnace from the mains and plug it into a generator for those no power situations. Though I can cook on a wood stove, can't cook on my furnace.
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inreb said:
LOL, no I run a pretty slick operation, no rat pack junk, just saying there is no clean central place to put the stove due to first floor layout. I've run through all the options including B vent chases, gas piping all over hells half acres, furnace types and sizes etc. As we know everything is compromises and trade offs. I already have my regular furnace corded to plug straight into genny. The ducting can't make it to the far corner, which this winter has shown, really needs to be there to be effective. An additional 15k/btu x 2 direct vent heaters looks like the solution. These heaters can't be throttled down so the option of turning one off should serve well. I can't find the stacking of heaters on hvac forums. I have 'til next winter to do this but like anything the present is the best time to formulate a plan.
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Stupid question maybe, but why do you need a generator to run a gas furnace? Wouldn't a big enough battery with 120V inverter do the trick? Then swap the battery every day so one is charging from your car on the way to work, and the other is feeding the furnace.

That was my idea, but I know nothing about these things.
 
fastar1 said:
Stupid question maybe, but why do you need a generator to run a gas furnace? Wouldn't a big enough battery with 120V inverter do the trick? Then swap the battery every day so one is charging from your car on the way to work, and the other is feeding the furnace.

That was my idea, but I know nothing about these things.
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Most, if not all, of my thinking is done inside the box so luckily never considered the battery option. And good thing too as I'd hate to have a battery sitting around thru the usual 10 year power outage cycle.
 
inreb said:
Most, if not all, of my thinking is done inside the box so luckily never considered the battery option. And good thing too as I'd hate to have a battery sitting around thru the usual 10 year power outage cycle.
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True. Maybe just run a cord from the car to the inverter, and let the house cool down during the day? If the car's in the garage (heated by the furnace) then it should start no problem when needed.
 
fastar1 said:
True. Maybe just run a cord from the car to the inverter, and let the house cool down during the day? If the car's in the garage (heated by the furnace) then it should start no problem when needed.
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I'm sure that's doable and something else I never considered. I guess my answer is that I'd rather have my genny running in the locked outbuilding with the windows cracked rather than leaving the truck running in the driveway while sleeping. I'm thinking most every highrise and house in my 'hood will be meat locker 36hrs into an outage. No telling what people will do with a running truck in the driveway.
 
inreb said:
Yes, I will have 12"+ to the ceiling. You do realize these units' combustion chambers are completely separate from occupied space? And the vents will be 45" apart on centre?
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It doesn't matter if it is seaparate you can't have exhaust gas being pulled in the intake, but at 45" that should be more then enough. If it was me installing them for a. customer, I wouldn't stack them, if they insistec, I wouldn't do the install, but that's just me, I also won't use CSST or copper.
 
Slim Jim said:
It doesn't matter if it is seaparate you can't have exhaust gas being pulled in the intake, but at 45" that should be more then enough. If it was me installing them for a. customer, I wouldn't stack them, if they insistec, I wouldn't do the install, but that's just me, I also won't use CSST or copper.
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I know it seems counter intuitive to stack them but if not against code and not dangerous then what would be the reason to not take a job? Anyway, I need a technical solution to my heating needs and I have to work within certain packaging parameters.
 
inreb said:
I'm sure that's doable and something else I never considered. I guess my answer is that I'd rather have my genny running in the locked outbuilding with the windows cracked rather than leaving the truck running in the driveway while sleeping. I'm thinking most every highrise and house in my 'hood will be meat locker 36hrs into an outage. No telling what people will do with a running truck in the driveway.
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Noooo, not leaving the car running. How much juice does it take to run a furnace circuit board for say, 24 hrs? Seems to me a AA cell could just about do it. Let the car sleep and just use some of the battery reserves.
 
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fastar1 said:
Noooo, not leaving the car running. How much juice does it take to run a furnace circuit board for say, 24 hrs? Seems to me a AA cell could it. Let the car sleep and just use some of the battery reserves.
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As long as your furnace doesn't have a blower fan
 
Pm SunnyS, that's his specailty. Just don't degrade Honda while you're at it
 
inreb said:
I know it seems counter intuitive to stack them but if not against code and not dangerous then what would be the reason to not take a job? Anyway, I need a technical solution to my heating needs and I have to work within certain packaging parameters.
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I don't like putting an intake above an exhaust, it just my preference. An install my be done to code, but was't thought through properly. There is a code that can be used to red tag an appliance, even if it was done to code. There is more to installing gas appliances then just reading parts of the code.If I was at a house and there were stack concentric vents, I would watch the appliance work, and if I saw any exhaust being drawn in to intake, and from experience it will happen, then I will red tag it.
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