1. This is consistent with electrical power interruption to the ECU or ignition system, potentially loose connection somewhere. It COULD be a dodgy side stand switch. But the first thing I would check is the battery terminals. I tend to doubt battery terminals (not consistent with "dash lights were still on") but it's easy to check and rule out, so why not.
2. This is also consistent with electrical power interruption to the ECU or ignition, so for the moment, consider this to be the same symptom.
Concerns: "104 C". That's somewhat high although still within an acceptable range. If that represents being stuck in traffic with the engine idling, it's normal. If the engine was "stopped" for a minute or two, and the "104 C" display after the bike started moving again only persisted for a few seconds before returning to normal (which I would consider to be seventysomething-eightysomething-ninetysomething) then it is just heat soak from the metal into the coolant inside the engine, which is a non-issue.
It is NOT: Throttle body synchronisation, spark plugs, air filter, "fuel pressure" (other than possibly as a result of a dodgy electrical connection leading to the pump not running at all, possibly intermittently), or other off the wall stuff. If throttle bodies were out of sync, symptom 1 is a rough idle all the time, symptom 2 (if severe) is hard starting and rough running all the time. It's not going to make the engine lose power while rolling along in gear with the revs up. If a spark plug is bad enough to lead to a misfire, it will lead to hard starting and rough running all the time.
Look for dodgy intermittent electrical connections. Start with battery terminals. Proceed to side-stand switch. Beyond that it gets tough.
P.S. If the engine ever cuts out / won't start / ?? with the transmission in neutral, the problem is not the side-stand switch. Being in neutral completely overrules the side-stand switch condition.
2. This is also consistent with electrical power interruption to the ECU or ignition, so for the moment, consider this to be the same symptom.
Concerns: "104 C". That's somewhat high although still within an acceptable range. If that represents being stuck in traffic with the engine idling, it's normal. If the engine was "stopped" for a minute or two, and the "104 C" display after the bike started moving again only persisted for a few seconds before returning to normal (which I would consider to be seventysomething-eightysomething-ninetysomething) then it is just heat soak from the metal into the coolant inside the engine, which is a non-issue.
It is NOT: Throttle body synchronisation, spark plugs, air filter, "fuel pressure" (other than possibly as a result of a dodgy electrical connection leading to the pump not running at all, possibly intermittently), or other off the wall stuff. If throttle bodies were out of sync, symptom 1 is a rough idle all the time, symptom 2 (if severe) is hard starting and rough running all the time. It's not going to make the engine lose power while rolling along in gear with the revs up. If a spark plug is bad enough to lead to a misfire, it will lead to hard starting and rough running all the time.
Look for dodgy intermittent electrical connections. Start with battery terminals. Proceed to side-stand switch. Beyond that it gets tough.
P.S. If the engine ever cuts out / won't start / ?? with the transmission in neutral, the problem is not the side-stand switch. Being in neutral completely overrules the side-stand switch condition.
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