FZ07 shut down and stalling | Page 6 | GTAMotorcycle.com

FZ07 shut down and stalling

Trials said:
I swear they put the smallest battery possible in sport bikes :/ you have to keep them charged and you have to keep them 90% healthy,
or always park at the top of a great big hill and save just enough juice to fire the fuel pump. When you put a brand new battery in the bike and it starts so much better, that's what alerts you the importance of the battery condition.


BMW K100 will not even bump start because the early era fuel pump draws too much juice, if the K battery is flat you call for a jump start
or borrow a working battery out of the nearest riding lawn tractor.
Click to expand...
My K75 was the hardest to start bike I've ever owned. I carried a small torch under the seat and if it was much below zero, I would pull the plugs and pre-heat them before I even bothered trying. Not helping the situation was the ground at the computer had floated up to 3 to 5 volts above battery ground. Obviously that does not leave enough headroom for the computer to do much thinking. Running a new ground wire would give you constant current through the new wire (bad). I was never able to figure out why that was happening. I wired up a spare fuse holder as an auxiliary switch. Putting a fuse in that slot increased the voltage to the computer if the battery was low (I can't remember if it also triggered the starter, it has been a very long time since I owned that bike).
 
ifiddles said:
@mistersouthpaw that problem you had with your ninja sounds like mine...I've tried replicating it and can't on purpose...it feels like not getting enough fuel...even hubby said maybe I'm letting the clutch out too much, but I know I'm not...

I'm thinking idle is around 1100, but I'd have to double check...
Click to expand...

I am just wondering if you downshifted slowly and the rpms dropped to idle speed and the idle is off and it stalled for that reason. I'd like to hear it idle. The idle being incorrect is a symptom though, If its idling really rough r3r3r3 may be right that the engine vacuum is out of sync. It would have to be pretty damn out of sync though and quite noticeable. I cant imagine a bike with 20k being so out of sync. Not enough fuel could be a lot of different things as well. Confirm the idle speed is around 1100. 1100-1300 rpm idle is normal from what the manual says for the mt07. I just googled it quickly but confirm the idle speed.

Get a video of it and keep trying to make it stall. Warm it up, shut it down and then start it again and try blipping the throttle right away after you start it (dont rev it cold), try riding it around your place in first at low rpm and see how it reacts, coast with the clutch pulled in and see if it stalls. Coast at low speed with the clutch pulled in and blip the throttle a couple times. See what happens. Flick all the lights on when coasting with the clutch pulled in. Everyone is just guessing really. Did you ever have a problem before installing the heated grips? Or did the problem start after? I'm just wondering who touched what before the problem started.
 
I believe your bike has a clutch lever switch that is activated/deactivated when the clutch lever is pulled in and released. Inside the switch has some contact points that may get dirty/corroded over time. If the switch starts sticking or there is not a clean contact, it can cause the bike to stall.
You can unplug the 2-wire connector and remove the switch from underneath the clutch lever, disassemble it and clean it up. Be careful there is a spring inside and the plunger part that pushes in and out so don’t lose any of the small pieces...and pay attention how it goes back together .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Robbo said:
I believe your bike has a clutch lever switch that is activated/deactivated when the clutch lever is pulled in and released. Inside the switch has some contact points that may get dirty/corroded over time. If the switch starts sticking or there is not a clean contact, it can cause the bike to stall.
You can unplug the 2-wire connector and remove the switch from underneath the clutch lever, disassemble it and clean it up. Be careful there is a spring inside and the plunger part that pushes in and out so don’t lose any of the small pieces...and pay attention how it goes back together .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Doesn't that just stop the electric starter from working?
 
@Robbo thank you for that...in all my searches on YouTube, Facebook FZ07 groups and even the FZ07 forum, no one has ever mentioned this...the final consensus in all the other places I've looked is a faulty spring in the kill switch...between this and @Trials telling me my chain is dirty, I have some work to do tomorrow :D
 
? Ya, I inspired you to work on your motorcycle.
Far too hot out to ride anyway, good day to work in a nice cool garage.
 
@mistersouthpaw spring is fine on the kickstand...she's strong...

@Trials i took your advice and got out early yesterday and Monday...was home before it became sweltering...I'm on the hunt for all 27 horse statues in the Headwaters Parade of Horses lineup... :D
 
mistersouthpaw said:
The clutch switch allows you to start the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in I don’t think it would cause the bike to stall mid ride
Click to expand...

It also has an impact on fuel mapping and timing. It’s like an anti-stall. If the switch isn’t operating properly, the anti-stall function won’t operate properly.

Also, let’s say the switch stays stuck in, eco mode is disabled and the ecu puts the bike in a neutral idle fuel mapping mode while you’re riding. That can’t be optimal.

You need that switch to have good clean connections. Yamaha makes the switch serviceable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Robbo said:
It also has an impact on fuel mapping and timing. It’s like an anti-stall. If the switch isn’t operating properly, the anti-stall function won’t operate properly.

Also, let’s say the switch stays stuck in, eco mode is disabled and the ecu puts the bike in a neutral idle fuel mapping mode while you’re riding. That can’t be optimal.

You need that switch to have good clean connections. Yamaha makes the switch serviceable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
No harm in cleaning it
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top Bottom