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Canuckles said:
Nah honestly just been riding to work live out just about 3,000km on it in like 2 and a half months first time anything like this has happened to me normally I have no issues in the rain so maybe today was just a mental skill issue whatever it was I’ll try and make sure it doesn’t happen again
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Put* not live
 
A brief search indicates that the current generation RC390 is supposed to have IMU traction control, which should have kicked in and kept you from going down. You may want to check your settings in case it was inadvertently disabled.
 
Relax said:
A brief search indicates that the current generation RC390 is supposed to have IMU traction control, which should have kicked in and kept you from going down. You may want to check your settings in case it was inadvertently disabled.
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Ya as far as I know it was active but I’ll definitely take a look when I get the chance
 
Lightcycle said:
If I was to guess, it sounds like you gave it too much gas as you exited the corner and the rear slid out from under you. Common mistake.

If you're a beginner, when you encounter slippery surfaces, slow everything down and keep your inputs smooth. Keep your corner entry speed slow. Do all your braking in a straight line. Then as you round the corner, no brakes or throttle, keep a neutral speed. Try to keep the bike as upright as you can. As you exit the corner, add more throttle smoothly, avoid being choppy with the throttle. Any sudden inputs with throttle or brakes will likely result in the tires breaking traction which is no bueno.

As you get more advanced, you can lean the bike more and carry more speed in the corners by counter-weighting the bike as it leans into the turn, dirt bike style. This means leaning your body away from the turn, so that if the bike slides out, your body weight is right on top of the bike and the contact patch of your tires, instead of inside the turn.

If your body weight is inside the turn when the tires lose grip, it'll make the bike slide out from under you that much faster.

If your body weight is over the bike and tires when you lose grip, you can ride the slide out. In the dirt, this is super fun, goosing the throttle and power-sliding the rear out of corners.
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All of the above but all it takes is one little stone or piece of road snot to take you down.

There's an interesting analogy somewhere about having a dollars worth of traction and if you use fifty cents on cornering you only have fifty cents for braking. If you're using the whole dollar on cornering you have nothing to spend on braking.

How are you healing now that it's been a few days?
 
nobbie48 said:
All of the above but all it takes is one little stone or piece of road snot to take you down.

There's an interesting analogy somewhere about having a dollars worth of traction and if you use fifty cents on cornering you only have fifty cents for braking. If you're using the whole dollar on cornering you have nothing to spend on braking.

How are you healing now that it's been a few days?
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I’m A okay no issues with me other than a scraped knee. Bikes also in much better condition than I originally feared. Road it yesterday to Scarborough to meet with a buddy of mine so already back to riding
 
Lightcycle said:
If I was to guess, it sounds like you gave it too much gas as you exited the corner and the rear slid out from under you. Common mistake.

If you're a beginner, when you encounter slippery surfaces, slow everything down and keep your inputs smooth. Keep your corner entry speed slow. Do all your braking in a straight line. Then as you round the corner, no brakes or throttle, keep a neutral speed. Try to keep the bike as upright as you can. As you exit the corner, add more throttle smoothly, avoid being choppy with the throttle. Any sudden inputs with throttle or brakes will likely result in the tires breaking traction which is no bueno.

As you get more advanced, you can lean the bike more and carry more speed in the corners by counter-weighting the bike as it leans into the turn, dirt bike style. This means leaning your body away from the turn, so that if the bike slides out, your body weight is right on top of the bike and the contact patch of your tires, instead of inside the turn.

If your body weight is inside the turn when the tires lose grip, it'll make the bike slide out from under you that much faster.

If your body weight is over the bike and tires when you lose grip, you can ride the slide out. In the dirt, this is super fun, goosing the throttle and power-sliding the rear out of corners.
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Excellent riding tips right here. Slippery days I try to keep the bike as upright as possible at all times and accelerate out of corners only when I'm sure there was no slipping point behind or when I'm almost upright.

And as others said, don't blame it on the weather conditions. One day you might start your ride in bright sun and then get caught up in a heavy rain with no place to stop. This experience will likely tell you the limits of your bike/tires and your personal limits to be able to avoid a similar situation next time.
 
Relax said:
A brief search indicates that the current generation RC390 is supposed to have IMU traction control, which should have kicked in and kept you from going down. You may want to check your settings in case it was inadvertently disabled.
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Did you ever check this? Curious to know why traction control didn't work to prevent your accident.
 
Relax said:
Did you ever check this? Curious to know why traction control didn't work to prevent your accident.
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It was active same with my ABS maybe there’s some other factors I wasn’t considering. Could have been my lean angle as well cuz I hadn’t properly learnt leaning myself into turns to keep the bike more upright I’ve had no issues since and I’ve ridden in worse weather than that day
 
Technology doesn't exempt anyone from the laws of physics.

Even with throttle and brake-by-wire, and a veritable alphabet soup of electronic aids, there are still a dozen things you can do wrong with the inputs not under computer control that'll end up with your bike on its side. Things like bad body positioning, incorrect weight transfer, abrupt inputs with the handlebar, etc.
 
Lightcycle said:
Technology doesn't exempt anyone from the laws of physics.

Even with throttle and brake-by-wire, and a veritable alphabet soup of electronic aids, there are still a dozen things you can do wrong with the inputs not under computer control that'll end up with your bike on its side. Things like bad body positioning, incorrect weight transfer, abrupt inputs with the handlebar, etc.
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Ya that’s what I was thinking I never believed the bikes electronics could correct stupidity. My final theory is a mix of a few things but bad body position (hadn’t yet learnt good body positioning at that point), bad weather, cold tires and either I tapped the front brake or added too much throttle but I’ve made sure it hasn’t happened again
 
Lightcycle said:
Technology doesn't exempt anyone from the laws of physics.

Even with throttle and brake-by-wire, and a veritable alphabet soup of electronic aids, there are still a dozen things you can do wrong with the inputs not under computer control that'll end up with your bike on its side. Things like bad body positioning, incorrect weight transfer, abrupt inputs with the handlebar, etc.
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Got a nice irl physics lesson though so that’s one of the bright sides
 
Lightcycle said:
Technology doesn't exempt anyone from the laws of physics.

Even with throttle and brake-by-wire, and a veritable alphabet soup of electronic aids, there are still a dozen things you can do wrong with the inputs not under computer control that'll end up with your bike on its side. Things like bad body positioning, incorrect weight transfer, abrupt inputs with the handlebar, etc.
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I completely agree that technology can't repeal the laws of physics - this is something I used to remind everyone when it was first introduced. But based on my own limited experience with a bike that had that stuff (my Hyperstrada which had no IMU), you'd have to do something pretty crazy to lowside it the way the OP described. The sense I got from the description is that he simply made a turn and the rear slipped out while accelerating though it. So traction control didn't sense the wheelspin. Maybe if there was a huge rut or bump in the middle of the turn?
 
Something to keep in mind in your quest for a 600 - i assume super sport? Those bikes are even LESS forgiving for mistakes then your 300 is. Everything is more sensitive and the power is always a wrist pull away from being a problem.

Spend more time on a non super bike, get a ninja 650 or r7 if you must upgrade for more room.
 
Evoex said:
Something to keep in mind in your quest for a 600 - i assume super sport? Those bikes are even LESS forgiving for mistakes then your 300 is. Everything is more sensitive and the power is always a wrist pull away from being a problem.

Spend more time on a non super bike, get a ninja 650 or r7 if you must upgrade for more room.
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On the other hand, a 600 inline 4 is pretty docile at low revs. Probably less power down there than the 390. The problem is once you have it spooled up...
 
Relax said:
I completely agree that technology can't repeal the laws of physics - this is something I used to remind everyone when it was first introduced. But based on my own limited experience with a bike that had that stuff (my Hyperstrada which had no IMU), you'd have to do something pretty crazy to lowside it the way the OP described. The sense I got from the description is that he simply made a turn and the rear slipped out while accelerating though it. So traction control didn't sense the wheelspin. Maybe if there was a huge rut or bump in the middle of the turn?
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Unless we were all there observing, we can only speculate on what OP did/didn't do.

I've witnessed some new riders do some very dangerous maneuvers on a motorcycle, and when you point it out to them, they weren't even aware they were doing it. Due to their inexperience, they didn't know it was dangerous.
 
Evoex said:
Something to keep in mind in your quest for a 600 - i assume super sport? Those bikes are even LESS forgiving for mistakes then your 300 is. Everything is more sensitive and the power is always a wrist pull away from being a problem.

Spend more time on a non super bike, get a ninja 650 or r7 if you must upgrade for more room.
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I know someone who might be selling their bike in the spring it’s a GSX-r 600 but he mentioned that he’d like me try it out a little. I don’t really push limits too much my reason for a super sport is I feel safer on it than any other bike I’ve tried it’s to do with my centre of gravity I think
 
Lightcycle said:
Unless we were all there observing, we can only speculate on what OP did/didn't do.

I've witnessed some new riders do some very dangerous maneuvers on a motorcycle, and when you point it out to them, they weren't even aware they were doing it. Due to their inexperience, they didn't know it was dangerous.
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That’s a fair point. Honestly im
Not sure if it was just poor lean angle with a bit too much throttle but it was right as I went to straighten out after my turn it was probably just me making a rookie mistake but it definitely made me more mindful of how I’m riding depending on conditions and it hasn’t happened since on the same road in worse weather so hopefully I’ve learnt my lesson
 
Lightcycle said:
Unless we were all there observing, we can only speculate on what OP did/didn't do.

I've witnessed some new riders do some very dangerous maneuvers on a motorcycle, and when you point it out to them, they weren't even aware they were doing it. Due to their inexperience, they didn't know it was dangerous.
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But were those new riders in training who never rode before? OP's got 4000 km's under their belt, so I'm giving the benefit of the doubt - by then they shouldn't be doing stuff like hammering the brakes mid-corner. And even if they did, isn't that the point of these aids? I'll give you steering input, but from the tests I've read about in the past, you should be able to hammer the brakes and/or throttle and ABS/traction control should be able to prevent lockup. No guarantee you'll slow down in time to make the turn if you overcooked it, but that's going back to the laws of physics). What other reason is there for a six-axis IMU that measures roll, pitch, yaw, surge, heave, and sway?
 
Relax said:
But were those new riders in training who never rode before? OP's got 4000 km's under their belt, so I'm giving the benefit of the doubt - by then they shouldn't be doing stuff like hammering the brakes mid-corner. And even if they did, isn't that the point of these aids? I'll give you steering input, but from the tests I've read about in the past, you should be able to hammer the brakes and/or throttle and ABS/traction control should be able to prevent lockup. No guarantee you'll slow down in time to make the turn if you overcooked it, but that's going back to the laws of physics). Isn't that the point of a dix-axis IMU that measures roll, pitch, yaw, surge, heave, and sway?
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I wasn’t going too fast into the turn cuz it was coming off a stop sign I don’t think I hammered the brakes but I ended up on the ground and I’ll do my best to make sure that never happens again if I can help it. Also I appreciate the benefit of the doubt but it was prolly just me doing something stupid and not registering it was stupid at the time of doing it
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