Excessive tire wear

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crankcall said:
Would there not be a little light saying no oil??? or is that only in the Hyundia performance guage package?
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No oil light or warning light of any kind came on, the car drove well for about 2000km after the last oil change. Dropped my wife off at the mall in Newmarket and I heard a light ticking noise only under load. decided to drive the ~3km to the dealer, and it seized halfway there. They tried to tell me at first that the clutch had blown up, I told them they were incorrect. Then they said the transmission was probabaly the issue, I told them again, incorrect, my motor is blown. They called me a week after dropping it off and told me the engine had a catastrophic failure. I said "I know." haha
 
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I had the general Altimax arctic installed. Very weird handling. The car has a noticeable delay for steering response. I guess it's very sensitive to what tires it has. I put the pressure up to 38psi and it's better. Too bad. I really like those tires on the A4. They dampen the harsh winter roads but they have great handling. All my western drives were on those tires and they handled great on mountain roads.

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So glad I found this post.

I have a 2016 Elantra and it’s horrible on tires, almost to the point I’m considering trading it in. The back end hop is a pain in the *** and I’ve had issues with the traction control coming on during the summer for no reason as well as the radio screen going blank but still functional.

I’m on my 2nd set of winter and summer tires and may need new summers sometime next year. I have 120K’s on it.


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Looks like there are some coilover kits available for the sedan. I'm not sure but a while ago I read the suspension between the sedan and hatchback(gt) were different. Are they just different spring rates/shocks or physically different and not interchangeable.
 
Wonky rear end motions on bumps sound more like bushings or something else flexing and causing bump steer or compliance steer. (The bump impact is moving the axle back slightly which "steers" the axle a little bit.)

Minor digging finds that it's a replaceable rubber bushing that presses into the pivot of the axle.

Those bushings have voids in them and are designed to flex to reduce noise and vibration transmitted to the body. They also have to flex in order to allow suspension movement. They do eventually wear out ...

The bushings that some other manufacturers use, are asymmetrical to allow the bushing to flex in certain directions more than others so that the ride and NVH functions can be better separated from the handling functions. It doesn't look like the Hyundai bushing is that sophisticated but it's hard to tell on the parts diagram (which is all I have to go on).

For some cars, you can get aftermarket bushings that are stiffer ... but NVH will get worse. Making urethane bushings isn't impossible. Filling voids in the stock bushings isn't impossible, either. No guarantee it will fix the problem. You can't make them completely solid because they inherently have to flex with suspension movement.

Some of the bump steer / roll steer / compliance steer is built into the design of the twist beam itself, and if Hyundai messed that up, there's not a lot you can do about it.
 
If the suspension has more resistance on one side then the other (from any number of things),
that will certainly pitch the car sideways on bumps. <- might even account for the weird tire wear on both sides

air bags are a nice way to settle a suspension.
 
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Brian P said:
Wonky rear end motions on bumps sound more like bushings or something else flexing and causing bump steer or compliance steer. (The bump impact is moving the axle back slightly which "steers" the axle a little bit.)

Minor digging finds that it's a replaceable rubber bushing that presses into the pivot of the axle.

Those bushings have voids in them and are designed to flex to reduce noise and vibration transmitted to the body. They also have to flex in order to allow suspension movement. They do eventually wear out ...

The bushings that some other manufacturers use, are asymmetrical to allow the bushing to flex in certain directions more than others so that the ride and NVH functions can be better separated from the handling functions. It doesn't look like the Hyundai bushing is that sophisticated but it's hard to tell on the parts diagram (which is all I have to go on).

For some cars, you can get aftermarket bushings that are stiffer ... but NVH will get worse. Making urethane bushings isn't impossible. Filling voids in the stock bushings isn't impossible, either. No guarantee it will fix the problem. You can't make them completely solid because they inherently have to flex with suspension movement.

Some of the bump steer / roll steer / compliance steer is built into the design of the twist beam itself, and if Hyundai messed that up, there's not a lot you can do about it.
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Since aliment can't be adjusted on these cars I am very reluctant to touch the rear bushings. Some people complain about a lot more tire wear than others. Since my aliment checked out I am assuming for now that it's just the low tire pressure that ate the tire. Some people have the rear misaligned and the solution is a whole new axle. Maybe Hyundai has some variance in their bushings and some are unlucky to get bad bushings. Pressing new bushings is a crapshoot without being able to adjust them. Filling works pretty well for mounts. I did it for some engine mounts. I don't think I can perfectly fill both rear axle bushings perfectly equal on both sides. That could worsen the wobble, no?

Trials said:
If the suspension has more resistance on one side then the other (from any number of things),
that will certainly pitch the car sideways on bumps. <- might even account for the weird tire wear on both sides

air bags are a nice way to settle a suspension.
Click to expand...

So maybe new shocks are the simple safe answer.
Air Lift kind of bags? The kind people put on minivans to deliver more newspapers...? Do tell, im curious.
 
But it can be bushings that are too cheap/simple in design to do what is needed. If that's the case, it's in there by design and will act that way from new. (This isn't the first place I've heard of this issue)

VW has used twist-beam axles for decades, and since the 1990s using the angled bushing mounts and with specially designed asymmetrical bushings that are designed to flex more in certain directions more than others. It doesn't look like the Hyundai bushings have that feature although I'm only going by very small pics on the internet - or maybe they do, but they didn't get the calibration right.

It appears that Energy Suspension makes a urethane bushing kit for those cars.
 
Nice find. So given that the rear aliment can't be adjusted, would you try replacing those bushings?

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If all you're trying to fix is the tire wear, I think you already found the issue. If you want to try to address the wonky rear ride motions over bumps, first I'd do some digging on enthusiast websites (I'm sure there are some) to see if anyone else has addressed it and if so, how, and if so, whether they had any success. If you are breaking new ground, bushings is where I'd start.

Don't replace all of them. If the odd ride motions are coming from the rear, just do the axle bushings.

It is entirely possible that the issue is built into the design of the twist-beam axle itself and there's nothing you can do about it. Those twist-beams look simple, but they're not. I have a customer who has a test rig in their lab which flexes twist-beams and measures the toe and camber change from the deflection of the machined surfaces of the stub-axle mounts.
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