Why?
|
|
|
Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
They hold up surprisingly well to that treatment. Mine is a poverty harbour freight version about a decade old and it has spent more than half its life outside.
Didn't you say it's in its final resting place?!?
Ah gotcha. Thought I set it wrong or something!
What are these fittings called at the end of these water pipes?
How do you remove them properly?
These were pipes that led to our old outside water taps, but then we had then all relocated during our reno and they just capped the old pipes as shown. There is now a very small leak at one end, which I want to fix. I just want to make sure I take that cap off properly and get it back on without damaging it, since the outer surface of it is smooth and cannot be wrenched.
Thanks!
How do you remove them properly?
These were pipes that led to our old outside water taps, but then we had then all relocated during our reno and they just capped the old pipes as shown. There is now a very small leak at one end, which I want to fix. I just want to make sure I take that cap off properly and get it back on without damaging it, since the outer surface of it is smooth and cannot be wrenched.
Thanks!
I would just cut the pipes just before the fittings and solder/sweat on a cap.What are these fittings called at the end of these water pipes?
How do you remove them properly?
These were pipes that led to our old outside water taps, but then we had then all relocated during our reno and they just capped the old pipes as shown. There is now a very small leak at one end, which I want to fix. I just want to make sure I take that cap off properly and get it back on without damaging it, since the outer surface of it is smooth and cannot be wrenched.
Thanks!
GateKeeper
Well-known member
turn off main water supply, cut off the caps, just use a pipe cutter and cut just before, and solder on new caps
.
.
GateKeeper
Well-known member
If u don’t want to solder, use PEX…..might cost a bit more if u need to buy all the stuff, pex pipe, end clamps, tool to crimp etc
not sure what u have or how handy u are
.
not sure what u have or how handy u are
.
Shark bite test caps. Turn off water first and relieve pressure. They make a tool to release them but you can do it without the tool. You push the brass cap the right, then the white plastic piece to the left (try to push evenly not cockeyed), let go with your left hand and the whole thing should slide off and be ready for the next job. An adjustable wrench slightly larger than the copper makes a decent pusher for the white collar.What are these fittings called at the end of these water pipes?
How do you remove them properly?
These were pipes that led to our old outside water taps, but then we had then all relocated during our reno and they just capped the old pipes as shown. There is now a very small leak at one end, which I want to fix. I just want to make sure I take that cap off properly and get it back on without damaging it, since the outer surface of it is smooth and cannot be wrenched.
Thanks!
FWIW, I don't trust sharkbite as a permanent repair. I would be soldering on test caps once I took those off.
Thank you all!
I am borderline incompetent and have never done any plumbing stuff, so I don't have any of those related tools. But I'm always up for trying new things. I would have to get a pipe cutter and soldering kit / blowtorch.
Now that you all have given me the basics, I'll go look at some youtube vids to see what I need to buy and do.
I am borderline incompetent and have never done any plumbing stuff, so I don't have any of those related tools. But I'm always up for trying new things. I would have to get a pipe cutter and soldering kit / blowtorch.
Now that you all have given me the basics, I'll go look at some youtube vids to see what I need to buy and do.
Don't forget to put solder and flux on the shopping list.
Torch, flux, lead free solder (very important, don't use electronic solder), scratchy paper of some form. A small heat resistant blanket can help avoid burning things if you don't have space. You have enough space to not need one for this repair.
If you can get the sharkbites to release, you don't need a cutter for this job (which also saves deburring).
Pull the pipe down a a bit to get the water out before your start. Tip up before you solder. Water will turn to steam and suck up your heat/pressurize the pipe, spit out our joint and just generally make your life miserable.
EDIT:
It looks like they cleaned up the pipe that isn't leaking but failed to prepare the pipe with a leak.
sburns
Well-known member
How To Solder Copper Pipe
Have some plumbing to do, but not sure which skills you'll need? Learning how to solder copper pipe is the first step. Learn the process here.
www.familyhandyman.com
Might need some pliers as well. If you are heating the cap and putting it on the end of the pipe etc.
Don't forget to drain the water!!
^ Thanks for that vid.
The pipe is on a very gently slope and has a long run to it, so it will be easy to drain.
I"ll do this tomorrow when I have some time
The pipe is on a very gently slope and has a long run to it, so it will be easy to drain.
I"ll do this tomorrow when I have some time
There is a little tool they just slide off easy you have to push the plastic ring in and the will slide off
Sent using a thumb maybe 2
50/50 leaded solder is fine for an end cap like that, and melts at a much lower temperature than high silver content solder. You can do it with a simple propane torch, rather than having to get a MAP setup.
Probably true, but why would you intentionally put lead in your drinking water? Admittedly, not much will make it from there to his glass, but more than zero. For $11, you can get flux, lead-free solder, scratchy paper and a brush. Probably enough to last the rest of his life. Melts fine with propane even on 3/4" pipe. I haven't done larger copper to know where you need to switch fire.
True. I've never worried about the lead you'd get from that. Probably got more lead squeezing the old sinkers together with my teeth in the day. When I did my house, I soldered all the copper-to-pex stuff with 50/50 then plumbed the whole house with PEX. Lots of old houses were done with 50/50 and I don't remember an epidemic of idiots out there. Oh wait, just remembering the drive in today. Maybe you're right.
You're probably right that it is an inconsequential amount of lead. Hell, there are still lots of houses in Toronto that have their water run through a long lead pipe. Given that the cost to buy no lead solder is approaching zero, I wouldn't use 50/50 now for potable water even if I had a roll already. I strongly dislike lead-free for electronics but don't hate it for plumbing.
Last edited:
So just in case I can’t sort out someone to do this for me….can I put down the concrete pad for my shed on my own/with someone if I rent a gas concrete mixer and a float? I can get the mixer into my back yard. I have no idea how many loads I’d have to run to get the pad done. Mixers+float runs about $100 for a day. They rent a concrete vibrator too, is that only for bigger jobs? How many bags of concrete for a 10x8 pad?
I can excavate the soil, move it nearby. Get gravel delivered and I have a manual tamper (or do you need a machine?).
I figured the mixer might be cheaper than getting the stuff delivered and less hassle with moving the concrete to the site. I could also be dead wrong.
I’m happy to pay to get this done but the issue may be timing so…..
Edit: also..Lyndsay…guess what, the shed isn’t back ordered anymore!
I can excavate the soil, move it nearby. Get gravel delivered and I have a manual tamper (or do you need a machine?).
I figured the mixer might be cheaper than getting the stuff delivered and less hassle with moving the concrete to the site. I could also be dead wrong.
I’m happy to pay to get this done but the issue may be timing so…..
Edit: also..Lyndsay…guess what, the shed isn’t back ordered anymore!
|
|
|
|
|