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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
The last of the siding on the house is done! The house is now 100% clad in siding (except inside the shed on the right…screw that.
Now just to clad the shed, and decide stucco or more of the same brick on the back…
I literally ran out of 4.5” Hardie trim…so now cruising Kijiji and FBMP for some extra. Only need 30-50ft to finish the shed.
Now just to clad the shed, and decide stucco or more of the same brick on the back…
I literally ran out of 4.5” Hardie trim…so now cruising Kijiji and FBMP for some extra. Only need 30-50ft to finish the shed.
Effing he’ll….another issue.
Pop up sprinkler head from the irrigation system stopped rotating.
Water pressure seems good…it’s just not rotating and basically spraying in a single spot. I can move the head easily by hand, but need to go to the max in order for the inner gear to allow me to turn back the other direction.
Thoughts?
Pop up sprinkler head from the irrigation system stopped rotating.
Water pressure seems good…it’s just not rotating and basically spraying in a single spot. I can move the head easily by hand, but need to go to the max in order for the inner gear to allow me to turn back the other direction.
Thoughts?
Swap for a head from another location so you can isolate head issue or housing issue. I havent had your issue before.
Wow wife had power today. We cleaned the yard, dug a few holes for MORE plants!, threw out a bunch of junk, organized the shed for a tad, and then put up the trampoline for the kids…
I’m done for the day.
I’m done for the day.
I built a Myers Manx dune buggy. I got it running but never licensed it. A dirty run around the block once.
I had a few older beetles 6 volt, They're cheap, easy to restore and fun to drive if one doesn't consider surviving a crash.
Not my house but a friend's condo, a light fixture issue.
A MR-16 50 watt halogen pot light seems to be overheating. It runs for about an hour then shuts off and comes back on in another hour. There appears to be a thermostat inside the housing. Replacing the fixture means paint touch ups or worse. I'm suggesting dropping to a 35 watts halogen or if he wants the extra light, go for a 50 watt LED equivalent.
Any thoughts on either. The location is above a shower but not in direct line with any spray.
A MR-16 50 watt halogen pot light seems to be overheating. It runs for about an hour then shuts off and comes back on in another hour. There appears to be a thermostat inside the housing. Replacing the fixture means paint touch ups or worse. I'm suggesting dropping to a 35 watts halogen or if he wants the extra light, go for a 50 watt LED equivalent.
Any thoughts on either. The location is above a shower but not in direct line with any spray.
I would go LED. I don't love the lights put in our showers by previous contractors (MR-16 pots that you can touch while in the shower and they aren't rated for that). The can is grounded and I left the glass in when converting to LED's so it would be pretty hard to kill yourself with them.
You should be able to replace the tiny thermostat itself without taking the fixture out. It will be tight but it can be done.
I may have one if you feel like taking this on.
Replacing it with a lower wattage bulbs may product the same results.
Send picture of the inside of existing can.
R&R of the stat would be like milking a cow through a picket fence. The LED is a simple switch out. I'm trying to minimize my involvement.
48Connor
Well-known member
Ugh another interesting annoyance at the new house. The panel was changed ~20years ago and the house was re-wired with regular 14/2 romex, however I have just now noticed that they left 3 runs of this old wiring. 2 runs have no labels and no ground wire, and the other is labelled Philex. Of course one of those runs without the ground wire does 75% of the main floor of the house...
Also all of the electrical boxes seem to be buried so far into the wall that getting face plates and outlets/switches to line up is impossible without buying longer screws...
I'm now debating rewiring the main floor and installing new electrical boxes so I can make my outlets look and function normal...
Also all of the electrical boxes seem to be buried so far into the wall that getting face plates and outlets/switches to line up is impossible without buying longer screws...
I'm now debating rewiring the main floor and installing new electrical boxes so I can make my outlets look and function normal...
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Longer screws alone is no bueno. You need box extensions. Since you already have open walls for plumbing, i'd do the electrical too. You're allowed to work on your own electrical as long as you pull a permit.
Once you're that far down the rabbit hole, I'd add a few Cat6 drops in strategic locations. Not many but a few located for AP's and one near TV.
If you have access via the basement (not a finished drywall ceiling) a first floor rewire is not difficult. If the basement ceiling is drywall it will be more work.
Instead of replacing the boxes that are there you can also go with retrofit boxes (eg. Iberville 1104LRW-CRT) and once done just patch over the old ones. Use the retro fit where the walls are not open.
You can never have enough data drops.
48Connor
Well-known member
Basement ceiling is all drywall
I'm not against cutting into it, its just finding the time to do it...Yeah I'm looking into retrofit boxes now. That's probably the route I will go.
Hmm didn't know that about the longer screws. Will look into the box extensions. Thanks!
Agreed on the Cat6, I've already got 500ft of it to add some cameras in the eaves, and will add some throughout the house.
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Yes you can. Especially when none are labeled or terminated and they emerge from two locations without enough slack to reach the same patch panel. Stupid bleeping bleep. Two drops at each location for data/phone. Took me a day to track down where everything went. I think there were in the ballpark of 40 and I use three. One of the three I cut in the attic to install a poe switch to drive ap's. If I added anything else hardwired in the future, it would probably be poe cameras to the attic switch. Lots of orphan copper.You can never have enough data drops.
I am not an electrician (work in engineering) but I have done many ESA permitted (notification) and passed rewires over the years. If you are in the west GTA I can come by, take a look and give you some tips.Basement ceiling is all drywall
Yeah I'm looking into retrofit boxes now. That's probably the route I will go.
Hmm didn't know that about the longer screws. Will look into the box extensions. Thanks!
Agreed on the Cat6, I've already got 500ft of it to add some cameras in the eve's, and will add some throughout the house.
On the existing ungrounded runs. They are likely not done correctly... Either they installed a standard three prong 5-15R with no ground or even worse did a bootleg ground (neutral to ground at the receptacle) to fool a tester. If they did all that wrong did they get hot and neutral correct?? The outlets get swapped for convenience (to be able to plug in devices with a ground) or just because the old two prong was worn out or broken and are hard to get... Three prong can be safely done on an ungrounded outlet by using a GFCI outlet.
I hate walking into a place with unlabeled drops.
I have a very handy tester that will help with indetifieing and testing 24 drops in a matter of minutes. As long as it takes you to walk around the premises to reach each one of those drops.
Yes they need to be terminated.
ID goes on the patch panel side and you identify at each drop location.
So...I was going to reach out but since we're here...
I effectively finished all my CAT6 (thanks @oioioi) runs around the exterior of the house, and punched through into the house where I want everything...but now I think I screwed up which cable goes where...
Is there a way to confirm which cable goes where? I thought I labeled all of them with electrical tape (color coded, and 2x colors when I ran out) and just want to confirm which cable goes where...
Recommendations for testing before plugging anything in?
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