Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 336 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

GreyGhost said:
That's a complete loser idea. They are good once, maybe ok a second time (unofficially and with reduced capacity). By the third time you are relying on luck. Now, the removable stone idea is interesting. They should have epoxied a nut or threaded anchor in the wall and then used normal machine screws to hold the stone.
Click to expand...
I expoxied a stainless thread rod into the base and it’s easier to replace the stone. Slide it on the studs and add nuts. No juggling to hold the stone while trying to center a screw
 
mimico_polak said:
IF I go for a new shed, and IF I can do 160ft2 without a permit then I need 80ft3 of concrete. 100 just to be sure.
Click to expand...
Go for the new shed and also go for the big truck. Weigh the cost of the truck to the years of back pain to come. Yes, insurance may cover therapy etc but waking up each morning remembering why you hurt is no where near worth it.

But beware, the biggest shed you can get will still not be enough. I got a killer deal on a 10x12. Put me a little over the bylaw but so far so good. I figured I would be a happy camper. Garage still looks the same. Old shed still full. New shed is half full already and havent put the snowblower in yet. I have no idea where all this stuff came from !!
 
mimico_polak said:
Alright…I need 100ft3 of concrete…

160 30kg bags by hand…or…?
Click to expand...

Depends on whether you're a wimp or not.

FWIW #1

Some friends wanted to pour a 10' X 10' pad and formed it up with 2X4s, brought in sand, stone, Portland cement and water was nearby. They rented a cheap 120 volt cement mixer and did the first batch. When they dumped it it was about the size of a pile of cow poop. They immediately gave up and took off.

I calculated it would take about 100 loads at a couple of minutes each and kept on going. A number of hours later the slab was poured about an inch below the form. When they showed back up I told them the two of them could finish the top third. I think the slab is still there.

FWIW #2

My first house had a car and a half frame garage built on a mud sill with a crushed stone floor. I jacked the garage about 8" and poured a thicker mud sill to protect the base from rotting. Hand mixed the concrete.

Then I divided the floor into six sections and again, hand mixed with a shovel, all the concrete to do the job. Overall about two weeks. Talk about six pack abs.

A young lady took pity on me and dropped by to make sure I was eating properly so I married her. She's still here but the six pack is more like a keg. The garage is still standing.

IIRC a bag of quick mix concrete is a half a cubic foot. Needing 160 bags for 160 SF would imply a 6" slab. Is this a branch line to a Metro Links project?

Is 4" too thin? How about a contractor's 4" (Top of slab to lowest point of the biggest piece of aggregate)

My present shed ~8' X 12' was done with a wheelbarrow and a call to pick a mix. The concrete was a bit more expensive but the offset was not having to buy beer and steaks for a bunch of slaves.
 
I bought a mixer and did concrete pours for my shed supports myself. A pad was too expensive for me, setting sonotubes and making a deck topped with a plywood floor was actually pretty easy and it’s sturdy. That was for an 8x10 but it’s the same just bigger for a bigger footprint. Added bonus that the shed is raised above any water level and I now own a concrete mixer that lives in the shed it helped build.

Concrete bags are dirt cheap relatively and I still have the mixer to do a patio this season. I might get the bags of concrete delivered though. Fetching them in the car got old really quick.
 
My current 108 sq.ft shed is on four screw piles from Pylex (some here hate them) and basically a 2X6 PT wood frame with OSB floor for the base on them. Going on 14 years now with zero issues and still as solid as anything, and it is packed. Just another option similar to what @jc100.

The downside and upside, it raises the floor a bit. Harder to get a motorcycle in. At the same time less problems with moisture from snow.
 
Last edited:
I didn’t even consider the option of putting it on piles / posts.

I need and want this thing rodent proof so thought a pad was best, and then cover the shed in metal mesh for good measure.
 
mimico_polak said:
I didn’t even consider the option of putting it on piles / posts.

I need and want this thing rodent proof so thought a pad was best, and then cover the shed in metal mesh for good measure.
Click to expand...
If you want rodent proof, I like my friends shed. Poured like a basement. Pad and bottom 2' of wall are all concrete. Obviously an opening is left for the door. Walls are conventional framing above. This means rodents cant stand comfortably and attack weak points (except for the door). Also water/dirt/grass splashes against the concrete section which is durable and easy to clean.
 
I didn’t have the depth to do screw piles as bedrock wasn’t far under the surface. My sonotubes have adjustable deck ”U” supports inserted into them in case of any shifting but I didn’t need to adjust anything at all so far.

The shed has its own plastic base floor and that sits on pretty thick marine plywood. I can’t see rodents getting in.

I have to say that aside from mixing all the concrete and digging the sonotube holes it was a fun project and I now know that if need be I can build a pretty good deck.
 
jc100 said:
I think they were just about $5 when I did my shed. I needed two or three bags per tube and had 9 tubes I think.
Click to expand...
If there is enough access to get a small post hole machine in, you can often get the hole dug and filled with concrete for not much more than it would cost in concrete (and somebody else does all the hard work). Hell, I needed holes hand dug a little over five years ago and it was $100 per filled 10" by 4.5'. Done in a day instead of a week or two for me to get it done.
 
GreyGhost said:
If there is enough access to get a small post hole machine in, you can often get the hole dug and filled with concrete for not much more than it would cost in concrete (and somebody else does all the hard work). Hell, I needed holes hand dug a little over five years ago and it was $100 per filled 10" by 4.5'. Done in a day instead of a week or two for me to get it done.
Click to expand...

In hindsight…..if I could have stretched to that I would have. Digging holes in rocky soil was by far the least attractive part of the job. Levering out a boulder with a 5ft crowbar was the highlight of that part.
 
I’ve done concrete slabs both ways , at the cottage that was water access , the cement truck on pontoons had not been invented.
On a roadway unless it’s a post hole job and you need a mixer per hole , not calling the big truck is just silly . They have a minimum charge , and you need three guys with three wheelbarrows unless he can reach with the trough .
I like pouring a 10x12 pad in 10 mins not 3 hours .


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
 
Mad Mike said:
I've used helical and concrete filled sono tubes. I prefer sono tubes.

I did home depot helical under my kid's 10x12 shed, been rock solid for 2 winters, he stores at and snowmobiles inside. Really easy to use but you must follow instructions.

I used Mr Post Hole at my house, the charged me $200 to dig and clean 6 x 12" holes. They hold up a 2nd floor deck and a 16x12 canopy bar. Been solid for 10 years.
Click to expand...
Got a quote from Techno Metal Post for a shed. Six 7' piles installed with saddles. $3689 all in! Lol.
Sono tubes and concrete it is then.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top Bottom