At this point with that railing I would either fabricate and L bracket to fasten to wall on outside where I didn’t have to look at it , or as Greyghost said drill through and lag bolt into house using piece of black ABS as a spacer .
The problem you have with Vinyl is expansion and contraction, everything has to be slip-jointed otherwise you'll end up with a twist, warp, bow, and sometimes cracks. If you don't like the look of a return, vinyl j-block fitting and your dowel/lag idea might work. These trim blocks are designed for penetrating hose bibs and conduit, which might make the grades for the estheticsand fnnction.
This type of trim can stay rigid and be caulked while allowing the siding around the block to slip and move.
The problem you have with Vinyl is expansion and contraction, everything has to be slip-jointed otherwise you'll end up with a twist, warp, bow, and sometimes cracks. If you don't like the look of a return, vinyl j-block fitting and your dowel/lag idea might work. These trim blocks are designed for penetrating hose bibs and conduit, which might make the grades for the estheticsand fnnction.
This type of trim can stay rigid and be caulked while allowing the siding around the block to slip and move.
You wouldnt have to make connection rigid and restrict the vinyl movement. Leave some room around the lag bolt in the vinyl but tight in the aluminum. If someone pushes hard on the railing, lag bolt will resist some and then bend. It should never break on a single hit in that configuration. It would be stiffer if you rigidly connected tail to house but IIRC design load is 400 lbs to the side of the centre of the top rail. If the base of the post has a good connection, I expect the solution only needs to hold back ~100 lbs (three existing connections are already taking load).
The only issue I have with putting a lag into the house there is I don't know what's on the other side of the vinyl at that exact spot for it to grab.
A simple fix of a long screw into a fortified base underneath won't be strong enough. The railing is fairly strong but it's around 25' long and only supported on the top at the one end so if a couple 200lb people lean hard (or drunkenly fall against as it's a deck) it could bend out fully.
Earlier I mentioned my 17 YO roof dilemma with one section looking bad.
It was replaced in 2005 for $3900 and the rate of inflation should have taken that to about $5200 today but there were hints on the forum to expect around double that.
The local popular roofer gave me a price of $22,000. It could go higher when the roof is stripped and you need thousands of replacement. I wasn't sure if I was going to be invited to his kid's college graduation party since I was paying for the tuition. I declined.
Being pig headed, stubborn and tired of the BS I opted to do the small section myself. The coil nailer, shingles and nails cost less than $500. Some scrap steel and a $30 winch from PA made a jib boom to get the five bundles onto the roof to do the overlay. I can't remember how I got 50 bundles up there 37 years ago when I did the same thing. I can defer the $10K job a few years. Is there a chance sanity will return to the reno market?
I got most of it done yesterday, working rather inefficiently. Safety gear is a pain in a congested area but beats a fall.
In yesterday's mail was a quote to do the whole job for $5500. It ticked all the right boxes but I'm sure the fine print on the contract is wide open to extras to be negotiated with the roof stripped and open to the weather.
Finished today, aching, tired and trying to guess the future.
Tip: Don't kneel on black shingles trusting a single layer of denim will keep you from getting a burn on your leg.
Read the instructions and it's not hard. Architectural shingles sometimes require a strange pattern. You can borrow a gun and steal from a box of nails if you want. Unless a lot of money mysteriously appears I am not building a garage anytime soon so it's just sitting there.
The only issue I have with putting a lag into the house there is I don't know what's on the other side of the vinyl at that exact spot for it to grab.
A simple fix of a long screw into a fortified base underneath won't be strong enough. The railing is fairly strong but it's around 25' long and only supported on the top at the one end so if a couple 200lb people lean hard (or drunkenly fall against as it's a deck) it could bend out fully.
Another option is to see if they make a long end pole that can be cemented into the ground (or lagged to the foundation below your siding) then collared where it feeds through the deck. Wood decks against soft siding is done like that.
Step 2 should be easy enough for him. He should be able to get them delivered to the roof. Build a few platforms with roof jacks to spread them out and let the truck do most of the hard work.
I went on top so the only removal were the ridges. Lasted 20 years the last time.
I helped my stepfather do his bungalow and we were putting asphalt over two earlier layers of asphalt and one of cedar. I didn't know they made roofing nails long enough to penetrate that far.
Never assume. I knew a guy in Toledo Ohio and his roofer found out the hard way that when the house builder cleared the land for the house he brought in a mobile saw mill and used it to make the roof boards. They were oak. IIRC they had to pilot drill and hand nail.
I went on top which makes alignment easy. Since my house is a side split it wasn't hard to make a jib boom to lift from ground to the lower roof. Slug from there. Bundles are 70-80 pounds. For the life of me I cant remember how I go the shingles home or how I got them to the roof. The whole job for mine would be around 50 bundles, two tons.
1-1/2" coil nails were $58 for 7200. I also got 3600 1-1/4". I've got 10,000 left over.
Not all roofs can be double layered. If they are curled or an architectural pattern overlay doesn't work. Mine are three tab. I've heard of people just stripping the tabs but I see that as almost as much work without the results.
Just a BS number from my thoughts but a competitive price for yours if gouging, supply chain and labour issues are off the table would be $15,000 to $20,000, more if you want the shingles reinforced with unicorn hair.
Finishing a section of black shingles in July makes cold beer really taste good (Once you're on the ground)
Decent chance you already have one and just need to expose it. There is a often a web anchor with D-ring at the ridge during construction and if you have ridge vents they just drop it into attic. Remove a piece of ridge vent and it's out again. If you don't have one, they make a temporary one that nails to both sides of the ridge. I saw an ad for Ridge Pro and it would work well for me for maintenance but I wouldn't want it as an anchor for roof replacement. Price is ugly too. $550 USD plus the required pole.
The fall arrest geometry is tricky. If you can reach the corner you can fall off in the straight sections.
After I came down yesterday I got a phone call from an electrician friend who had loaned a ladder to a neighbour so he could mount some security cameras. The neighbour texted him the next morning that he could pick up the ladder from his back yard.
Buddy was about to text the guy back saying it was inconsiderate for him not to return it but before he hit send the neighbour texted that he fell of the ladder and broke his arm. He fell off on the way up so no cameras mounted.
The fall arrest geometry is tricky. If you can reach the corner you can fall off in the straight sections.
After I came down yesterday I got a phone call from an electrician friend who had loaned a ladder to a neighbour so he could mount some security cameras. The neighbour texted him the next morning that he could pick up the ladder from his back yard.
Buddy was about to text the guy back saying it was inconsiderate for him not to return it but before he hit send the neighbour texted that he fell of the ladder and broke his arm. He fell off on the way up so no cameras mounted.
You should be working with a rope grab that lets you shorten the lead and if the roof is dodgy, multiple anchor points are a good idea. A big swinger could be worse than a straight fall. Ideally keep the rope short enough that you are dealing with fall prevention instead of fall arrest. Keeps the forces lower on everything (including you).
Buddy fell off and the ladder fell or he fell off and the ladder stayed up? Depending on the ladder construction, if it fell it may be time for a trip to the dump.
Re: roof over shingles, you have no warranty ( may not care) , it will not last anywhere near as long as the other roof. In some cases it has affected home owners insurance. For me it also would take 25-30K off a house value, since that would be on the list of things to change stat. The heat trap that creates is significant.
Re: roof over shingles, you have no warranty ( may not care) , it will not last anywhere near as long as the other roof. In some cases it has affected home owners insurance. For me it also would take 25-30K off a house value, since that would be on the list of things to change stat. The heat trap that creates is significant.
By installing it himself he had a very long uphill fight for warranty already. Some will warrant over one layer as long as the previous layer is flat and documented.
Why does insurance care? They should care about three layers as that is a ton of weight and against code but I'd be surprised if two was a problem for them.
If you are bored, call your insurance company and tell them you have new shingles. I saved ~$50 a year.
Re: roof over shingles, you have no warranty ( may not care) , it will not last anywhere near as long as the other roof. In some cases it has affected home owners insurance. For me it also would take 25-30K off a house value, since that would be on the list of things to change stat. The heat trap that creates is significant.
The last time I did a second layer it lasted 20 years. Then I got pros to strip and go all new. It is failing at 17 years.
I'm only doing one small section and a house inspection would read "Needs new roof" whether I did the section or not so the cost difference is irrelevant.
Right now it seems everything is priced "Due to supply chain issues, due to Covid, due to labour markets, due to government regulations etc" and I wanted to wait a year or two to see if things are going to settle down or get worse. Better is a pipe dream.
Everything now seems to be subscription including roofs. To keep your warranty intact you may have to pay for regular check ups.
The fix cost me $500 but that includes the nailer and a ton of nails that will get used on the garden shed later this year. The shingles were about $200.
If I decide to sell in the near future I'd pay for a complete replacement to eliminate the big item on the survey list. The couple hundred I spent on shingles isn't a big factor. If I was working, time would have been money and I would be well ahead on the game to pay someone while I was making more money than it cost for them to do a R&R.
Retirement messes with your head. Time, tools and an "I can do that attitude" has people doubting my sanity.
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