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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
J_F
Guest
yeah, you and crank have the right idea
it is after all a wee seasonal house with tires on it
picked up some cherry stain and low lustre urethane
will sand the plywood and try that method
walk on it with the Birks on and not give a fok
sburns
Well-known member
Finally been able to tackle the plumbing project, after dealing with painting, which is still ongoing...
Rip open the walls.
That capped Wye joint will become useful to divert the upstairs sink into the main stack
The downstairs sink it not being vented.
I was able to cut off the cap and found a fitting to make it work. Re diverted upstairs bathroom sink
Added a vent to the downstairs bathroom sink to the main stack.
What is not seen is the re-arranging of the feeds, there was all this weird directional stuff going on, which caused some pipe banging when the water was run. I removed it all, and made them straight with "T's" and tucked the feeds up into the joists.
Thanks all for the info on the wet venting, Terry's plumbing etc.
I found this link which was also very helpful with visuals as well.
Now to put it back together!
Rip open the walls.
That capped Wye joint will become useful to divert the upstairs sink into the main stack
The downstairs sink it not being vented.
I was able to cut off the cap and found a fitting to make it work. Re diverted upstairs bathroom sink
Added a vent to the downstairs bathroom sink to the main stack.
What is not seen is the re-arranging of the feeds, there was all this weird directional stuff going on, which caused some pipe banging when the water was run. I removed it all, and made them straight with "T's" and tucked the feeds up into the joists.
Thanks all for the info on the wet venting, Terry's plumbing etc.
I found this link which was also very helpful with visuals as well.
Now to put it back together!
Is that copper drain stack? Baller.
sburns
Well-known member
It could be, I live in a old 60's bungalo. When I first moved here there was a hidden 10' ft metal (or copper) pipe hidden in the back wall. It looked to be going out to a non existent septic tank. It was left in place with the ends cut off.
I've been building shelving for the shed all day. Unfortunately I decided to beef up the shelves and my HD order isn't ready yet even though it was ordered on Thursday. Apparently a 2x4x8' comes in 2 sizes....92" and 96". Guess which ones I had, and which ones they gave me....FML.
Will have to pick up the additional 2x4s Monday morning to finish up.
Will have to pick up the additional 2x4s Monday morning to finish up.
Still organizing the garage myself. Whittling away more stuff, giving it away on the local Buy Nothing group, selling some, just tossing some.
Poking at the bikes still. Installed these this morning - love them.
Poking at the bikes still. Installed these this morning - love them.
GAMPRO 12V 135db Air Horn, Dual Trumpet Air Horn with Compressor, Super Loud Powerful Train Sound Shiny for Any 12V Vehicles Trucks Lorrys Trains Boats Cars Van, Air Horns - Amazon Canada
GAMPRO 12V 135db Air Horn, Dual Trumpet Air Horn with Compressor, Super Loud Powerful Train Sound Shiny for Any 12V Vehicles Trucks Lorrys Trains Boats Cars Van in Air Horns.
www.amazon.ca
It ain't pretty, but it's functional, strong, and another check mark off the list...
I'm considering adding some carriage bolts...just in case. It's only held together by 3" wood screws. Many many screws....but still just screws.
Also may add some bracing in b/w the shelves so there's something there as additional support.
How much weight do you think you will put on this shelf? Next time just use nails but I wouldnt be concerned. My garage came with a 10'x10' platform suspended on one corner by five deck screws. I dont trust that and mostly use it for kids off-season crap but who knows what previous owners piled up there and it hasn't failed yet.
I would add at least one triangle. You may get enough weight to get it to rack and that would be ugly.
Don’t bother. Don’t waste your time and money.
they are fine they way they are. Trust me
You at least used 2x4s and what looks like 3/4inch plywood
there is not enough space on them (height and depth wise for you to store anything on them that would warrant more support. Carriage bolts etc as you mentioned.
if anything just secure it to the back wall and start storing stuff on them. And drink some beer while your at it.
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Unless you plan to store lead ingots I'd venture to say it looks plenty strong to me.
If I did anything at all it would be to add some diagnonal bracing to the back - that can add massive structual stability against any end to end forces, but again, probably unnecessary unless you're putting massive loads on it. It won't nest nicely against the wall anymore with that on either.
If I did anything at all it would be to add some diagnonal bracing to the back - that can add massive structual stability against any end to end forces, but again, probably unnecessary unless you're putting massive loads on it. It won't nest nicely against the wall anymore with that on either.
Manually hammering nails would be a PITA. I know our grandfathers used to do it but today, unless you have an automated gun (air or battery) I prefer screws.
I do have a pneumatic framing gun but I still like to use screws for projects like this just in case you need to modify in the future.
Screws are much easier to take out than nails, which would require you to saw them off.
I made a work bench in the garage when we moved in and now I have a different idea for it and need to dismantle it. Screws will make this easier to accomplish.
Screws just give no warning. They are either perfect or you are crushed. Nails slip and bend to warn you things are not going well.
matt365
Well-known member
Sheer.
Screws shouldn't be used where there is sideways pressure on a fastener. Eg. joist hangers with screws is real bad. Like you said, they don't bend. They just snap.
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This is why framing of houses is done with nails and not screws.
In heavy winds, nails hold batter as they only bend and screws snap.
@mimicopolak , I'd add some 1x3's inside the 2x4's so there is no sheer load on the fasteners, its all compression on the 1x3's. Its a $5.00 fix , then I'd pop two or three tapcons through the back into the brick so there is no tippy sideways action, altho that looks brick outhouse strong. Faster would be @greyghosts idea of a couple 1x3's screwed into the back to make a triangle. The triangle being the basis of all stucture.
Its not that nails are better than screws in construction, construction screws are sold buy the skid, but nails are cheap, fast, and oh yeah, cheap. And construction of 90% of properties is all about the cheap.
Its not that nails are better than screws in construction, construction screws are sold buy the skid, but nails are cheap, fast, and oh yeah, cheap. And construction of 90% of properties is all about the cheap.
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