I had the chat with a few people as well @koFFey and right now as it stands we don’t really have many options. We are currently at the whim of the market where if we want / need more space this will be the place for the next 10+ years.
Never know where the future will take us, but there’s zero chance of us dining a 5 bedroom in this area, which we love.
Use your boating knowledge and put in a wet head. Tons of room then. Alternatively, sink over toilet tank (some even drain into the tank to save water) saves you quite a bit of space.
I had the chat with a few people as well @koFFey and right now as it stands we don’t really have many options. We are currently at the whim of the market where if we want / need more space this will be the place for the next 10+ years.
Never know where the future will take us, but there’s zero chance of us dining a 5 bedroom in this area, which we love.
I get it, I'm not far from you if you are in mimico. I have a WW2 bung in LB and looked at all options. You could still always do an interior weep, it would be way more cost effective than exterior and you wouldn't lose any interior spacing. Just an option. I helped my neighbor with his exterior proofing and it was a chore, 10 full days for 3 walls with an excavator. And the same as I, his 4th will need to be hand dug. Yours sounds a little more challenging.
Anyways. Since I don't post here too often, since covid.....
Built a new pantry for the wife in the cold cellar.
Built an outdoor gym.
Finished the indoor gym - mechanical room area.
Built a pool kit and ran 110ft of 12/2 teck cable to the end of my back yard for the pump/ect...
This spring, building a new deck from the back of the house with a walk down to my gazebo and a walk up to a deck surrounding the pool. That's pretty well much going to eat all my housing budget due to insane lumber pricing.
Wish you all the best gtam, stay healthy and alive.
I'm pretty sure I can squeeze it in. If I did boat style head, the shittrr would be inside the shower. Not sure I like that idea. I've been jn a few Scandinavian jokes that go that they basically tile the whole room and have a curbless shower.
Waterproofing works best on the outside. If it's raining you don't put your raincoat on first and then your Italian silks.
I dealt with a number of commercial water proofing companies over the years and they didn't like interior waterproofing. Commercial waterproofing is a different sub species of the animal. Water leaks in condos and commercial buildings can affect re-bar and in turn structural integrity. Remedial costs can be in hundreds of thousands or millions. Doing it wrong is worse.
That said, with a single family house sometimes there are no other realistic options, especially if your house is close to an uncooperative neighbour.
With interior membranes there is a mold potential between an interior membrane and the inner foundation wall and there is the potential of moisture entrapment.
Does it make a basement drier? I would say yes but with the above risks. It hasn't been around long enough to see if there are long term problems such as foundation deterioration. A lot of old block walls are deteriorating already. Does this make it worse?
Flex seal has its place but slathering any supposed cure-all product over everything one owns often bites people in the butt. Let's fiberglass grampa's classic wooden boat.
In a lot of cases and I suspect MP's as well, all that is needed is localized treatment. If you win a lottery or sell the Mercedes and need to burn the money go for the whole enchilada whether you need it or not.
I would be inclined to skip treating the wall beneath the shed and deck. Shed roof should keep the water far away and install sloped metal roofing under the deck to do the same thing (or a roof over the deck). Water 10' from the house has a hell of a time causing you problems if the grading isnt terrible.
That looks like a huge job if you are removing all that concrete.
I am curious where is that water stain coming from under the kid basket hoop?
Also the front downspout you really need to extend that runoff far as possible from the house. But looks like it's in a bad location with the path to side door back yard.
Also what is the relation to these photos to where the water is leaking on the red floor?
I would be inclined to skip treating the wall beneath the shed and deck. Shed roof should keep the water far away and install sloped metal roofing under the deck to do the same thing (or a roof over the deck). Water 10' from the house has a hell of a time causing you problems if the grading isnt terrible.
I agree. Another thing that appears to be missing us a butyl seal (caulking) between house and slabs. In the winter the house will warm the slab and create an ice dam on the slab, that channels all the melt water back to the foundation wall, exactly opposite of what you need.
Caulking us easy, you need a box of urethane expansion joint caulking, and probably a bunch of foam backing rope. If you caulking skills are novice level you can tape off with 2" masking then contour smooth with the back if a plastic teaspoon.
Does this happen in the summer as much as the winter?
That raised moat around the corner of the house looks like a drainage challenge.
When hydrostatic pressure builds below a basement slab, water can and come in anywhere, the slab meets the foundation. It will be hard to pinpoint the source.
It's not hard to figure out whether its wet under the slab, cold chiseled a 6" hole in the slab, the stone should be dry for at least a few inches.
That raised moat around the corner of the house looks like a drainage challenge.
When hydrostatic pressure builds below a basement slab, water can and come in anywhere, the slab meets the foundation. It will be hard to pinpoint the source.
It's not hard to figure out whether its wet under the slab, cold chiseled a 6" hole in the slab, the stone should be dry for at least a few inches.
On that note, it's probably a terrible idea but what about punching a hole out through the side of the pipe below the floor drain? If there is water under the slab, it should run in and disappear. If there is water in the basement, the vast majority will run down the drain and the little that leaks out the hole shouldn't cause an issue.
I agree. Another thing that appears to be missing us a butyl seal (caulking) between house and slabs. In the winter the house will warm the slab and create an ice dam on the slab, that channels all the melt water back to the foundation wall, exactly opposite of what you need.
Caulking us easy, you need a box of urethane expansion joint caulking, and probably a bunch of foam backing rope. If you caulking skills are novice level you can tape off with 2" masking then contour smooth with the back if a plastic teaspoon.
Does this happen in the summer as much as the winter?
Has never happened before. My wife noticed it being damp before in that step b/w the laundry and basement room...but this is the first time we've seen it.
I'll drill a hole in the bottom stair tomorrow like my neighbour as he said that in his house there was no concrete under the stairway, and it was just wet soil.
On that note, it's probably a terrible idea but what about punching a hole out through the side of the pipe below the floor drain? If there is water under the slab, it should run in and disappear. If there is water in the basement, the vast majority will run down the drain and the little that leaks out the hole shouldn't cause an issue.
That would be ok for relieving water under the slab as long as If you're going to drill an existing drainpipe to 'weep' moisture, make sure it's upstream from toilets. The holes need to be at 4 and 8 o'clock on the drainpipe which means you will need to drill thru and thru, (presuming you're you're attacking the problem from above the drain pipe).
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