Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 120 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Same. I just looked again and the difference was actually closer to $4000, actually.

As much as I feel for retail, like, they have to realize they can't compete so poorly and expect people to continue to shop there. We spent basically $7K online for the same stuff the sales lady in Whitby made us think was a "great deal" (because they had a no-tax sale) at $10,750.

Like, I'm already having an aneurism that we'd spend $10K on 3 pieces of F'n furniture, but to try to find out you were trying to bend me over at the same time is just a bit much.
Furniture store salespeople and car dealers are on the same list for me. I think in the future I’ll just buy straight from Costco online and have it sent back if it’s not right.
 
I think we have a 20+ year old L shaped lazyboy sectional downstairs. Lost one cushion a few years in, as my kid was doing a cutting project, and thought that a newspaper would protect the leather. Think they may have warrantied it or it was a nominal cost for a new cushion.

I'll have to check our old place next time we're in Toronto. We bought it with a stamped/tinted concrete driveway decades ago. Not sure what shape it's in. Guy living there now is a bit of a hoarder, and the driveway is full of stuff.
 
I assume you had to know about the K & T but the aluminum came as a big surprise? I understand that a special coating or grease of some kind needs to be applied between copper and alum to prevent the corrosion between dissimilar metals. Will you be digging in to find out?
Reminds me about a story of a sleeping dog......
I am about 98% done on a full top to bottom rewire including the service, just doing some remaining lights before I call for rough-in inspection. Other than about 10 feet of modern NMSC in one bathroom, that was actually done correctly--no existing wires are being reused. The house is mostly K&T (built in 1941) with some poorly done DIY 60°C NMSC (copper) and some armoured cable mixed in. This was the first aluminum but it is only exposed at the light switch, K&T at the light so the aluminum and the K&T are spliced together somewhere in the wall. This is the kitchen light, it was also the first light where the K&T insulation was burnt off (common on K&T when too high wattage bulbs were used).

The other really bad thing we found was some PO DIY basement renos where the K&T and NMSC (mix of 60 and 90) were just twisted together and wrapped in electrical tape (no marr or marrette), at least it was in box....
 
The guys that did my driveway wouldn't do stamped. They said it doesn't hold up because they lay in regular concrete then add a thin coloured layer over top. And because the thin layer needs to better or dryer (?) for stamping it makes that layer inherently weak. Or something to that effect.
My own experience bares that out. I've seen lots 100 year old abandonned structures and the concrete is fine. I've also seen lots of stamped concrete a decade or two old that is flaking and crappy.
I've been involved in electrical ramp snow melting for decades and largely with repairs, including stamped.

There's basically two ways of doing the pour, single and two pour.

Single pour gives you one homogeneous hunk of concrete with next to no chance of separation. The problem with heating cables is that you can't control the depth as the cables get stepped on and pushed down. Similarly with textured concrete, with a large slab it can be difficult to get out to the middle and stamp the pattern without leaving depressions.

Two pour gives depth control for heating cables and for texturing it isn't much different than working one's way down a firm slab, troweling material and stamping as you go.

The problem I see with the typical condo ramp is that as soon as the base pour is complete everyone wants to use the garage for parking and material storage so the cap doesn't get poured for months or even a year. During that time the ramp gets covered with mud and oil drips. The concrete fully matures.

IMO as soon as the base slab is firm enough to walk on, finish the job while the slab is green and clean, whether that is adding cables or textured materials or both.

Don't wait until the ramp is bone dry and filthy and suddenly "Hey let's pour the cap" and the job gets done, often without the surface even being cleaned or wet down.

I come along a few years later and tapping on the ramp results in hollow noises. The cap looks like a turtle's back due to the cracking. Through freeze thaw cycles, dirty water has left a layer of mud or caked dirt between the slabs.

My two cents.
 
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New concrete pad in front of the shed is in now to finish the siding before it snows.
de7e9ae0ee64ca7c4ecd7cb2ba84608f.jpg


Sent using a thumb maybe 2
 
New concrete pad in front of the shed is in now to finish the siding before it snows.
de7e9ae0ee64ca7c4ecd7cb2ba84608f.jpg


Sent using a thumb maybe 2
Shed?????

I guess I store my lawnmower and stuff in a box.

That looks bigger than my house!. I think I would like living there. Wake up, swing that loft door open, stretch and scratch myself in my underwear. Ahhh....thats the life !
 
Shed?????

I guess I store my lawnmower and stuff in a box.

That looks bigger than my house!. I think I would like living there. Wake up, swing that loft door open, stretch and scratch myself in my underwear. Ahhh....thats the life !
I just feel inadequate
 
I've had a bunch of kitchen cabinets saved in my Ikea wishlist since I moved in to my new place in March 2020 to finish off my laundry room. Every time I've checked since then some piece of it has been out of stock. Checked last night and who would of thought everything was there and in stock. After a late night 9pm trip to Ikea, I've got my next project lined up.

I've never messed with Ikea kitchens before, so this should be interesting. I'm got some modifying to do on some of the cabinets to make them fit, hopefully it turns out well.
 
Wife is tossing around the idea of increasing the house size…we ideally would like an additional bedroom, and a third bathroom (half). The lot will allow us to go back another 8-10ft without really affecting the yard, and because of the side split layout the logical solution would be to build up above the living room.

Where does one even start on such a plan? What costs should I expect just to get ideas / designs / estimates? Obviously no one works for free but I’ve no clue where to start with this?

I’ve heard and looked into the modular additions years ago. Anyone try that? Rip the roof off, plop down the modular build and I can do the finish myself. Just need the frame and roof to be done.

EDIT: we’re not really considering selling and buying different as we love the area and it may not work out financially.
 
Wife is tossing around the idea of increasing the house size…we ideally would like an additional bedroom, and a third bathroom (half). The lot will allow us to go back another 8-10ft without really affecting the yard, and because of the side split layout the logical solution would be to build up above the living room.

Where does one even start on such a plan? What costs should I expect just to get ideas / designs / estimates? Obviously no one works for free but I’ve no clue where to start with this?

I’ve heard and looked into the modular additions years ago. Anyone try that? Rip the roof off, plop down the modular build and I can do the finish myself. Just need the frame and roof to be done.

EDIT: we’re not really considering selling and buying different as we love the area and it may not work out financially.
Can the existing framing/foundation accommodate another floor? Not sure where to start with that. I would hope a structural engineer gets involved at some point but wouldn't be surprised if many additions were held up by magic and an architects stamp.

When you say above the living room, your plan is take the short side up another story so you have five living levels?

Are you planning on having the upper floor cantilever out to make a cove/outdoor kitchen or you would enclose the volume inside the house?

I suspect you will be into foundation, framing, roofing, finishing and an hvac upgrade (minisplit for addition?). Friends looked at a similar plan about four years ago and it was ~250k to pay to get it all done. They moved two blocks away. Put the 250k into house jump and got a new build (tear down and maximum envelope cube constructed in old neighbourbood) instead of having mostly 80 year old house with an addition scabbed on.
 
@GreyGhost let me see if I can answer:

1. pretty sure the solid block walls can support another level.
2. Yes, only get rid of the roof atop the current living area (lower side) and have 5 living levels instead of the current 4
3. No cantilever, just straight up
5. would like a balcony/terrace up there depending on available space. Even a small 3-4 foot walkaround.
6. Also an option, but will have to see what type of values we'd be looking at. I assume 1.5-1.6M selling price for ours in current conditions. Leaving us with about 1M in cash toward the next purchase. Mortgage agent said 500k is max mortgage, so this option is unlikely.
 
@GreyGhost let me see if I can answer:

1. pretty sure the solid block walls can support another level.
2. Yes, only get rid of the roof atop the current living area (lower side) and have 5 living levels instead of the current 4
3. No cantilever, just straight up
5. would like a balcony/terrace up there depending on available space. Even a small 3-4 foot walkaround.
6. Also an option, but will have to see what type of values we'd be looking at. I assume 1.5-1.6M selling price for ours in current conditions. Leaving us with about 1M in cash toward the next purchase. Mortgage agent said 500k is max mortgage, so this option is unlikely.
Our house has a large extension on it. We bought it like that. The extension area has a flat roof and looks to have been bolted on and then integrated with the existing structure. There are indents in a couple of walls where previous exterior windows used to be but for the most part it‘s been done well. HVAC was run reasonably well. This extension added an upstairs bedroom, extra kitchen space and a complete room for entertainment. We probably wouldn’t have bought the house if it didn’t have it. It’s about 12-15ft in depth and about 25-30ft wide. Pretty big. The only thing I would have done differently would be to have had an engineer sort out a proper angled integrated roof rather than a flat roof but that would have meant some original upper rooms losing windows and would have added considerable cost and complexity for the roof area.

If the flat roof was done by a specialist and slightly angled I don’t think it would be a major concern though. $250k sounds expensive but I wouldn’t doubt it. If you love your house it might be worth it though. We are considering adding a solarium to our place on a bit of the deck we don’t use and that’s because we love the house/location/garden and all these things add value. Our house is one of the larger ones in the neighbourhood because of the extension.
 
One of our neighbours has an identical layout to ours and did an expansion of their house. They appear to the the type that’s scared of neighbours as they always scurry soon as you get near them. I’ll catch em one day though. Damn Polaks!
 

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