Maybe a dumb question, but if I’m building a frame directly onto sonotube footings how do you connect the corners if the tubes are at the corners? I can only see saddle type brackets that support beams lengthwise through them. I tried to find a corner bracket but wasn’t able to.
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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
Mad Mike
Well-known member
You can contact the ground with PT wood, if you're willing to dig out 6" of dirt, (as you would need to to with a slab), your wood floor can be level with the surrounding grass. If you want it as one step, just need to remove the sod.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
No - don't do that. The point of a sono tube is to take the load of the shed down to undisturbed soil. In southern ontario, the soil moves down to the frost line, so anything less than about 4' is subject to substantial heaving. If you hot bedrock you're good -- that's undisturbed and not subject to frost heave.
Another option is a pole barn, in this case you set a 4x4 post at each corner and on each side of the door. These form your corners and door frame, you frame in between the posts. The floor is on grade using patio stones or interlock on 3" of sand or screening.
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no, what I meant was what if I can only dig down 2ft before I hit my bedrock.
Good to go if you hit bedrock I would dig the whole are to the bedrock then and set the base on 6x6 posts then fill under the floor with 3/4 crushed stone no concrete needed
Sent using a thumb maybe 2
Sounds good to me if they are tied in. If you were leaving them all floating and hit rock a few inches deep, I'd want more weight or a tie-in to keep things in place.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Your saddles go in the direction of your load beams (holding the 12' side), a rim joist goes the other way.
Perfect. Thanks!
Pouring a concrete slab is easy, a one day job with pick-a-mix. Getting a good finish is a different thing. There's a whole thing about letting the water go up and then down getting a good finish. Broom finish isn't too hard but a slick trowel finish needs experience. The ones I did were unexperienced but solid. I don't know what the pick-a-mix guys charge these days.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Hard is a relative term.
- Digging and wheeling 30 wheelbarrows of sod and topsoil out of the back yard - hard.
- Framing and squaring a form - easy.
- Loading, wheeling, unloading and spreading 30 wheelbarrows of screening to the back corner of the yard - hard..
- Wheeling, dumping and placing 30 wheelbarrows of concrete to the back corner of the yard - hard.
- Screeding and finishing a pad - easy!
I finished scraping the peeling paint off the bathroom ceiling over the tub. 60 years of mixed erroneous paints over plaster.
Now to touch up the odd gouges in the plaster. Anyone know if plaster of paris sticks well to old plaster?
I've added a power vent.
I do NOT want to do this again.
Now to touch up the odd gouges in the plaster. Anyone know if plaster of paris sticks well to old plaster?
I've added a power vent.
I do NOT want to do this again.
I'd use Durabond 90 or the like. Make sure it's flush before you let it dry, and then use a skim coat or two of drywall compound or the like to make it smooth.
Sand between coats.
I have been welding up the iron fence for the front yard (will post pics once it is in, talked about much earlier in this thread....) so I decided to kill the grass on the street side as this will get tilled and turned into garden.
Looked at the Round-up "advanced" which is their now eco friendly solution in the store. It said something like 62g/l acetic acid.... $30 and change for five litres.... Regular white vinegar is 5%, much lower, pickling vinegar is 7% (based on specific gravity it is either 73g/l or 67g/l, too lazy to confirm....) but either way damn close.... it is also only $3.99 for four litres.... So I filled the sprayer with the pickling vinegar, added a couple drops of dish soap to reduce surface tension, sprayed away, two dry days later.....
Now this just burns off the foliage, it does not kill the roots like glyphosate, once they come back a little for $4 more I can just hit it again, I doubt the roots will be up for round three. It makes the dirt slightly acidic but that is not entirely a bad thing depending on what is going in and really after a couple of rain falls....
Looked at the Round-up "advanced" which is their now eco friendly solution in the store. It said something like 62g/l acetic acid.... $30 and change for five litres.... Regular white vinegar is 5%, much lower, pickling vinegar is 7% (based on specific gravity it is either 73g/l or 67g/l, too lazy to confirm....) but either way damn close.... it is also only $3.99 for four litres.... So I filled the sprayer with the pickling vinegar, added a couple drops of dish soap to reduce surface tension, sprayed away, two dry days later.....
Now this just burns off the foliage, it does not kill the roots like glyphosate, once they come back a little for $4 more I can just hit it again, I doubt the roots will be up for round three. It makes the dirt slightly acidic but that is not entirely a bad thing depending on what is going in and really after a couple of rain falls....
If you buy roundup poison ivy (good luck finding it but it exists in Ontario), it is much closer to old roundup and full of chemicals. New roundup is a huge waste of money.
I also have farmer neighbors who get the good stuff. They did my fields last year and not much survived.
I would think for poison ivy to just go with glyphosate. It is in the regular old school Round-Up. It is banned here for cosmetic use but is still sold for things like poison ivy. Usually locked up at the store if they have inventory.
Stuff with 2,4-D (another "good" one) is fully banned in Ontario for residential use but I have heard some tales out of school that it can be ordered and mailed from western provinces or via farmers.... it does have a very tell-tale smell. It works on broad leafs plants including ivy, does not kill grasses.
We used to have 5 gallons of roundup concentrate (something like a cup per 45 gallons of water) but sadly used it up. May need to recruit a farmer to replenish the supply.
At least the non-concentrate is sold in stores but not for cosmetic purposes (they are supposed to ask before letting you buy it). I bought some in the spring for some nasty stuff. Key ingredient to look for is glyphosate. I wanted to get some more for this but this is technically cosmetic which is also moot as most places ran out....
I need something to kill poison ivy up at the cottage. Abandoned lot nearby and it’s migrating to our property.
City made the guy spray it once already and it’s coming back again.
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