Electrical problem : Help please

GreyGhost said:
Are there signs of life when you turn on the key? If not, my vote is for ignition switch not powering up the fuse box.

PS: Thanks to thirstforspeed for posting the wiring diagram. It makes things much easier.
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Second on the ignition switch.
 
I thought a few posts back, the bike was running.

Is it running (A) at all, (B) on both cylinders? Is the problem solved, or is there another problem?

Removing the tach shouldn't cause an issue unless the signal wire that leads to the tach is now shorted to ground. *That* will cause a problem.
 
Bike is running on one cylinder only (back cylinder) .On the front one I have no spark at all(checked spark plug -ok; coil -ok, switched coils Ok), I have to check that signal wire (orange in the diagram) .
 
my bet (once again based on the intimate knowledge I have of these bikes) is that its a connector issue or something like that. Those coils are robust, so is the TCI despite what other people say. the tach signal has no bearing on the functioning of the coil.

I have had this issue in the past as well, but it was because the carb was clogged. i had okay spark, but it seemed like intermittent spark because of the poor connection to body ground when i tested the plug on the cooling fin. My issues were solved with a carb cleaning.
 
Checked the lead wire from the tach -ok.Took carbs out and I`m the middle of cleaning them up, by the way what is the set up on the main jet (2 1/2 turns ). Having no direct knowledge of this model what else could be wrong that would give you no spark on one cylinder? I checked all connections and everything looks ok.
 
i dont know. most of what i faced was poorly seated connectors and whatnot. also, check your body grounds, both the ones at the coil and the ones from the engine to frame. If you have repainted the frame or engine then the paint or whatever could be degrading the connection. I remade the body ground lead (the one from the engine to the frame, it should start on the engine near the back, and go up and around the back to a spot on the frame at the level of the air intake. Its a very heavy gauge wire, maybe 0 AWG-ish) so that I could trust the connection. Mine was all corroded (just surface corrosion) but because I had the bike apart and all that, the original connection could have shifted.

but yeah, other than that, if all the plugs seem to be seating correctly and its all grounded well, I would reluctantly start looking at the TCI.

if you need a spare TCI
 
Very frustrated today when I discovered that on the front cylinder if I hold the spark plug close to the body I have spark, if I ground it to the body I don`t have spark ( what is that??).Carburetors cleaned up and reinstalled . I have to get back to it but this is very hard since I just had a major knee surgery.
 
bluecorvin said:
Very frustrated today when I discovered that on the front cylinder if I hold the spark plug close to the body I have spark, if I ground it to the body I don`t have spark ( what is that??).Carburetors cleaned up and reinstalled . I have to get back to it but this is very hard since I just had a major knee surgery.
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Can you see the spark jump from the centre electrode? It would be a first for me, but is there a chance the spark is coming through the body of the plug not the electrode?
 
@greyghost: good point. did we confirm that the plug leads and plugs are new? if they are really old it might be a case of arcing along the case or through the boot of the plug.

Bluecorvin, are the plug leads new? or still the stock ones? Do they look okay? they might be cracked and allowing power to leak out into the sheathing. do you get a tingle in your fingers when the engine is running and you touch the plug cap?
 
Plugs are new.
Plug leads are stock.-They look ok but I need to check the one from the cylinder that is not firing (or replace it).
I do get a tingle in my hand when I test it (same cylinder ) away from the body.
 
That might be the next thing to sort out. I would recommend that you go in and replace them, and while youre at it, take a look at the plug cap to see if there is an extra resistor in there or something.

Often people just run down to CT and get whatever looks like it will fit, and there could be a mis-match with resistors and plugs. I did have that issue with mine. I ended up replacing everything from the coil down with new. That might help.
 
thirstforspeed said:
That might be the next thing to sort out. I would recommend that you go in and replace them, and while youre at it, take a look at the plug cap to see if there is an extra resistor in there or something.

Often people just run down to CT and get whatever looks like it will fit, and there could be a mis-match with resistors and plugs. I did have that issue with mine. I ended up replacing everything from the coil down with new. That might help.
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An extra 5 ohm resistor or two is not going to defeat the spark, nor would the lack of a resistor.
 
Replaced leads and caps and now is fine.
What Will be a good setting for the pilot jets on the carbs. Everything is stock.
Thank you all for helping out .
 
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