A couple of cans of that expanding spray foam, let it sit overnight, I guarantee they will be dead silent after that....
If they have a dB buster option you can try that, switching back to stock also works well. Most modding I have seen is on stock cans to make them louder....
Follow up… I have the parts (crush gaskets, studs, nuts. I finally had time to get it apart again and as dreaded the broken stud is being a bi*** and doesn’t want to come out. Please experts give me some suggestions. If I had a welder I would have put a nut on and welded it there but I don’t. It doesn’t want to move.
Follow up… I have the parts (crush gaskets, studs, nuts. I finally had time to get it apart again and as dreaded the broken stud is being a bi*** and doesn’t want to come out. Please experts give me some suggestions. If I had a welder I would have put a nut on and welded it there but I don’t. It doesn’t want to move.
How much of the stud is proud from flange? They make specialty stud extractors that use a camming action that squeezes tighter as your turn to unthread. They've worked well for me in the past on snapped studs.
Going to soak it with penetrating oil for a day or two and give it a try. I’m hesitant with the heat on aluminum heads but will try a small propane torch if the penetrant doesn’t work.
How much of the stud is proud from flange? They make specialty stud extractors that use a camming action that squeezes tighter as your turn to unthread. They've worked well for me in the past on snapped studs.
Looks like this. There are other similar designs. Ultimately they work well because the more torque that is applied, the more the internal mechanism shrinks in size, gripping the stud even harder.
The other ones shown with the reverse threads that cut in to material may work, but will typically remove material due to the sharp biting edges and then slip off as the material is removed where as the one I suggested forces the biting mechanism closer in. If you don't have enough material standing proud from the flangr surface the other one may be your only alternative but sounds like there's enough stud left to grab with the one I suggested.
Just to add as another option, a lot of independent testing shows ATF is one of the best penetrant lubricants you can find. The viscosity, surface tension and creep characteristics and hence performance is right up there with the stuff marketed towards penetrant usage.
I have an old bottle of AMSOIL ATF that I keep kicking around primarily for penetrant usage. The only drawback is not being to able spray it at the threads if access is poor. But I swear it outperforms most spray penetrants and is pretty cheap compared to penentrant lubes as well.
Just to add as another option, a lot of independent testing shows ATF is one of the best penetrant lubricants you can find. The viscosity, surface tension and creep characteristics and hence performance is right up there with the stuff marketed towards penetrant usage.
I have an old bottle of AMSOIL ATF that I keep kicking around primarily for penetrant usage. The only drawback is not being to able spray it at the threads if access is poor. But I swear it outperforms most spray penetrants and is pretty cheap compared to penentrant lubes as well.
Apparently adding a little acetone (~5-10%) to ATF makes it even better. I haven't actually tried adding acetone. But if you're concerned with solvent damaging the pump, may want to leave it out. As long as the pump is rated for motor oil, it will be fine for ATF.
Follow up… I have the parts (crush gaskets, studs, nuts. I finally had time to get it apart again and as dreaded the broken stud is being a bi*** and doesn’t want to come out. Please experts give me some suggestions. If I had a welder I would have put a nut on and welded it there but I don’t. It doesn’t want to move.
I just had a problem with a head stud. Welded buts on 3 times, the mig welds held, the studs twisted off below the welds.
I was down to about 1/2" of stud, so went a different direction, picked up this tool from Amazon for $30, it's like a drill chuck with teeth that grab the stud, the other end fits a 3/8" ratchet. Worked like a charm!
I just had a problem with a head stud. Welded buts on 3 times, the mig welds held, the studs twisted off below the welds.
I was down to about 1/2" of stud, so went a different direction, picked up this tool from Amazon for $30, it's like a drill chuck with teeth that grab the stud, the other end fits a 3/8" ratchet. Worked like a charm!View attachment 49492
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