Dumb question about heated grip wiring | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Dumb question about heated grip wiring

I'm this so called "member" and gave em for free, so feel free to toss them ?

FWIW, I Got them after last years final Moto Social when a fellow Honda rider recommended them to me, said he has run them for years, even did a cross country trip with them, saw them on his bike, I liked the integrated controller vs the big box Oxfords come with. When he told me the price, I was baffled, I got them off his link. It was late in the season, i parked the bike, never got to installing them as I didn't have a power hub

LINK
 
Chrispy said:
Thanks for those input, screw heated grips then ? survived many winters without them
Click to expand...

Don't let these guys scare you with mindless complication. Just get some black and red primary wire 18-20 gauge. Run a black wire to the main ground and a red power wire off your ignition switch (look for the line that runs to your coil). Princess Auto wire is just fine, I have used it for years with zero problems. Twist the wires together (as pictured in this thread and solder them, either with an iron or just get one of those wind-proof lighters. Cover them with electrical tape and paint them with contact cement to water proof them. Zip-tie the wiring so it isn't loose. It should take you about an hour to do, and you'll be happy once they're installed and working. The first bloody cold snap you'll be really, really happy, and you'll wonder why you didn't have them sooner.
 
@ScorpionT16 hurry up from your trip and you can dissect my bike and teach me haha!

@Roadghost thanks for the comforting words! I'm willing to try 100%, I've tested the grips from scorpion above, and they definitely heat up nicely.


I have seen cb500x install vids and I need to file down the plastic teeth on the handle bar, so my next question is what kind of glue do ppl recommend?
 
Last edited:
I have a question :unsure: what's in the little black box if it is not a relay?
 
If you don't want to solder or have no access to solder station, you can get solder shrink tubes and heat shrink around that for double weather seal; the adhesive lined heat shrink is definitely a nice thing to have. If you don't have a heat gun use a lighter, coil stove burner etc. etc.

www.princessauto.com

25 pc 22-18 Gauge Heat-Shrink Butt Connectors | Princess Auto

25 pc 22-18 Gauge Heat-Shrink Butt Connectors
www.princessauto.com www.princessauto.com
www.princessauto.com

10 pc 22-18 Gauge Transparent Heat-Shrink Butt Connectors | Princess Auto

10 pc 22-18 Gauge Transparent Heat-Shrink Butt Connectors
www.princessauto.com www.princessauto.com

And instead of getting multiple colours of conductors, you ~can~ use different colour heat shrink....just make sure you don't go slapping all sorts of colours on whatever ends.

I know....it's ghetto but it gets the job done.

Just putting it out there, a crimped connector is only good if using a proper crimper! not a pair of pliers and squishing lol
Sure we use tons of crimp connections in avionics, but those crimpers have been calibrated :)
 
red and black wire would be ideal
but one of them is gonna have the fuse holder on it
mystery solved if you use the same colour for both
 
Just stopped by princess auto before heading to work, they sell wires at minimum 25ft prepack lol I need like 3 maybe 4 feet max. Saw those butt connectors too. These tools and material will legit be a one time use for me so the cost is gonna add up to an Oxford ?might be easier getting a set off amazon $35 and the wires are longer, unless its meant to be short ? will deal with this over the weekend.. ?
 
Last edited:
Chrispy said:
Just stopped by princess auto before heading to work, they sell wires at minimum 25ft prepack lol I need like 3 maybe 4 feet max. Saw those butt connectors too. These tools and material will legit be a one time use for me so the cost is gonna add up to an Oxford ?might be easier getting a set off amazon $35 and the wires are longer, unless its meant to be short ? will deal with this over the weekend.. ?
Click to expand...

No way the wire and all is $100+, I got a roll from lowest at like $12, and use it for a lot of other accessories. You can even use plugs like these

E-TING 10 Kit 1.5mm Waterproof Electrical Wire Connector Plug 2 Pin Way Terminals for Boats, Motorcycles, Scooters, Trucks, Quad Bikes : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

E-TING 10 Kit 1.5mm Waterproof Electrical Wire Connector Plug 2 Pin Way Terminals for Boats, Motorcycles, Scooters, Trucks, Quad Bikes : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement
www.amazon.ca

Total should be less than $25. Plus you can use all this stuff for AUX lights, Volt meters, USB plug etc... whatever future acc you add
 
I just did a similar install for < $10
power supply for stereo blue tooth amp

couldn't find my soldering iron and was kind of remote
bought a little pack of each: butt connectors and heat shrink tubing from Home Hardware

cut the plastic crap off the crimp connector, don't need it if using heat shrink
can also see clearly if you're getting a good crimp using just the metal sleeve
make sure to slide the heat shrink over one of the wires before crimping
makes a very nice, tidy, water proof connection
no special tools required

wire doesn't need to be anything special
adequate gauge and insulation are all you're looking for

GwMq3ft.jpg
 
Saw the wires 16 or 18 gauge $10 a roll (red and black), butt connector $5 a pack, terminal ring $5 a pack, crimp pliers $25.

I'm checking amazon grips supplier to see if the wires are naturally long enough to reach battery. $35 prime

Play by ear for now, doubt I'll need the tool and materials for later on since I won't need aux, stereo etc ?

Much appreciated on all the advice and pics of materials!! ?
 
Pretty sure you can get crimping tool from Dollarama.


Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 
Mad Mike said:
View attachment 44524


30 to positive on battery
87 to positive on grips
85 to ground
86 to a circuit that goes on/off with key (trigger)
87a if the relay has this tab, just leave it
Click to expand...

Just a clarification, terminal 30 should be connected to the battery through a fuse. Nothing other than the bike's own built-in starter motor should connect to battery +12 without a fuse, and that fuse holder should be as close as possible to the battery with the unfused section of wiring protected from damage that could lead to a short-to-ground. 'Course, a proper heated-grips kit should include everything needed to make them work including all necessary connectors, fuses, relays, etc.

Minor investigation indicates that the Oxford heated grips draw a little over 2 amps per side, so 4 amps total. It should be fed through a 10 amp automotive fuse, ideally the same style of fuse that the rest of your bike uses.

I hate aftermarket wiring. It's too often bodged, and if anything goes wrong, it's not covered in the service manual. It's a good way to lead to a breakdown ... or a fire.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top Bottom