Well Peninsula won't do the light reset if I do my own oil change. $350 minimum charge for oil and filter change, tire pressure check, chain check and adjustment, and software update.
Dammit. Computer says 3700km until the oil change is needed...
Well Peninsula won't do the light reset if I do my own oil change. $350 minimum charge for oil and filter change, tire pressure check, chain check and adjustment, and software update.
Dammit. Computer says 3700km until the oil change is needed...
And this is why I have whatever scan tools are required. Expensive but pay for themselves quickly. I don't have one for your bike though. If you had a vespa/piaggio/Gilera I could hook you up.
Well Peninsula won't do the light reset if I do my own oil change. $350 minimum charge for oil and filter change, tire pressure check, chain check and adjustment, and software update.
Dammit. Computer says 3700km until the oil change is needed...
Lol $350 for a glorified oil change.
Start tinkering with cables and software yourself, or you can safely ignore the wrench and ride onward.
Character!
I suspect MP is worried about scaring prospective buyers away with the wrench light on, otherwise yeah just ignore it and ride it until the next oil change is due and get it and the service done at the dealer or wherever.
I suspect MP is worried about scaring prospective buyers away with the wrench light on, otherwise yeah just ignore it and ride it until the next oil change is due and get it and the service done at the dealer or wherever.
Sick of paying $200+ per hour at the dealer? Don't want to drag your Ducati or Aprilia 2+ hours to Toronto and pay through the teeth for simple service indicator reset? I can help you out using a dealer level diagnostics tool! $50 to clear service reminders/indicators (oil, annual, desmo, etc)...
If you’re using JPDiag/Melcodiag you won’t be able to reset anything until you get an activation code from him, he sends each code separately keyed to vin.
I have all the stuff just have never bothered trying to figure it out yet to clear the wrench on the monster why don't you borrow it figure it out then I'll let you show me
I have all the stuff just have never bothered trying to figure it out yet to clear the wrench on the monster why don't you borrow it figure it out then I'll let you show me
Well it's not the USBs. Tested all 3 USB connections (1 has 2 slots, and the other is the Ducati one on the bike).
Bike off = no power to the phone from any of them (on/off switch tested on the aftermarket)
Bike ACC = no power to the aftermarket one. Ducati USB works
Bike ON = haven't tested as daughter is sleeping above the garage.
Well it's not the USBs. Tested all 3 USB connections (1 has 2 slots, and the other is the Ducati one on the bike).
Bike off = no power to the phone from any of them (on/off switch tested on the aftermarket)
Bike ACC = no power to the aftermarket one. Ducati USB works
Bike ON = haven't tested as daughter is sleeping above the garage.
I'll disconnect the aftermarket USB when I get a chance. I'd like to keep it as it's right on the handlebar, but I'm not dropping lots of $$ to have it re-wired properly. As it stands it's direct wire to the battery from what I see.
Well it's not the USBs. Tested all 3 USB connections (1 has 2 slots, and the other is the Ducati one on the bike).
Bike off = no power to the phone from any of them (on/off switch tested on the aftermarket)
Bike ACC = no power to the aftermarket one. Ducati USB works
Bike ON = haven't tested as daughter is sleeping above the garage.
I would be testing entirely differently for phantom draw. Bike off, remove positive cable, insert multimeter set for dc current (ideally low value current less than 1A, not 10A range) between removed cables and positive. Ideally number would be zero but if it's not, note the number. Reinstall cables and pull fuses one at a time. Multimeter set the same way, probes on each leg of the fuse socket. Should be zero, look for one that's not (ideally one is close to your noted number). Once you have found the circuit that is acting up, Look for where the power could be going (split plugs if possible to narrow down the location as if current stops when you split a plug, you know the draw is after the plug).
EDIT:
Start with amp meter in aftermarket usb line, then do the above.
I would be testing entirely differently for phantom draw. Bike off, remove positive cable, insert multimeter set for dc current (ideally low value current less than 1A, not 10A range) between removed cables and positive. Ideally number would be zero but if it's not, note the number. Reinstall cables and pull fuses one at a time. Multimeter set the same way, probes on each leg of the fuse socket. Should be zero, look for one that's not (ideally one is close to your noted number). Once you have found the circuit that is acting up, Look for where the power could be going (split plugs if possible to narrow down the location as if current stops when you split a plug, you know the draw is after the plug).
EDIT:
Start with amp meter in aftermarket usb line, then do the above.
I'd get the Chinesium out of there, been there a dozen times and they almost always draw come power. I had one of those little cigarette lighter adapters in my Jeep - it drained the battery in about 2 weeks. I switched the cigarette lighter from always live to switched and all is good.
If you don't have a meter, you can also pull the ground wire from the USB port. With the bike power off, and turn off the lights in your garage so it's dark then touch the ground wire to ground. You can often see a tiny spark as you ground a circuit that has a parasitic draw.
If you want to keep the Chinese USB, put a simple relay in the circuit, or go full Neanderthal and install a toggle switch.
A 13.5V >20 watt zener is not something most people have in stock. I would stick with a relay or switch. Easier for people that come after to understand.
I would be testing entirely differently for phantom draw. Bike off, remove positive cable, insert multimeter set for dc current (ideally low value current less than 1A, not 10A range) between removed cables and positive. Ideally number would be zero but if it's not, note the number. Reinstall cables and pull fuses one at a time. Multimeter set the same way, probes on each leg of the fuse socket. Should be zero, look for one that's not (ideally one is close to your noted number). Once you have found the circuit that is acting up, Look for where the power could be going (split plugs if possible to narrow down the location as if current stops when you split a plug, you know the draw is after the plug).
EDIT:
Start with amp meter in aftermarket usb line, then do the above.
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