DUA Track Fairings? | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

DUA Track Fairings?

I met Rahul about 6yrs ago and he is very well known in the Race World. His fairings are just like the Sharkskinz with some reinforcement and tweeks to it. I have not had a chance to use them myself as I opted for Sharkskinz before he came out with his. Having Sharkinz and knowing what they are about and seeing Rahuls' I would say they are just as he said they would be.

If I had to choose based price and availability I would go with Dua.
 
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Mr.Azim said:
.....If you want to track your bike, remove the stock fairings and headlight and track it. If you know you'll be back, then buy a track-ready bike. The amount you spend on a new set of fairings and paint can cover a third the price of a decent or basic track bike.
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Often times a bike with no fairings sustains more damage than one wearing basic fiberglass. The race glass can keep vital parts of the bike such as radiators, etc... tucked out of the way as the bike slides down the road and over curbing. If I recall correctly Dua also offers an excellent race glass/paint package so you're ready to roll right away. I have not used the glass but I have seen it up close and the quality and workmanship are at least on par with the more expensive glass.
 
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Mina said:
The thing is, I know I'm going to love it, I just want some reassurance.
I don't have many friends that ride let alone ride track, but I understand the idea you're getting at and I can see how it would help.



Not really planning on racing, I work 7 days a week but by next year things will be different.
I only plan on going to the track every other weekend come spring time.
In the two years that I've owned my bike, I've added a lot of things to it.
All it really needs right now is suspension, just got off the phone with Accelerated Technologies and I got quoted $2000 for a complete set up.
Other than that it would be good to go!



Your bike didn't look bad after the crash, looks like these would do just fine.
I was just looking for a real person's review, thanks for posting!
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You dont need to worry about suspension upgrades and tire warmers etc unless the stock suspension is inadequate already, and you are running some desent lap times that require race tires.
 
Thanks guys for all the suggestions, I will update this thread once I've decided what I'll be doing.
Hopefully I'll get to meet some of you at the track and learn a thing or two.

Cheers!
 
murf said:
You dont need to worry about suspension upgrades and tire warmers etc unless the stock suspension is inadequate already, and you are running some desent lap times that require race tires.
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Tire warmers is not just about fast lap times, it is about heat cycles and tire wear
 
ZX600 said:
Tire warmers is not just about fast lap times, it is about heat cycles and tire wear
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What's the difference between warmers vs. riding at an easy pace until your tires warm up?
How does this affect the heat cycles and how is it better?

Forgive my silly questions, this is all new to me.
 
Mina said:
What's the difference between warmers vs. riding at an easy pace until your tires warm up?
How does this affect the heat cycles and how is it better?

Forgive my silly questions, this is all new to me.
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With race tires they are sensitive to heat cycling so using warmers should increase life expectancy since they are not heat cycled, but as a newb any sport tire or sport/track hybrid tire will be fine and they are not heat cycle sensitive. As new track rider you got enough on your plate, no need to spend hundreds more for race tires, warmers and generators. I think race schools like this one for example use Dunlop Q2s and no warmers:

http://www.superbikeschool.com/machinery/
 
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When I started I went straight to track tires, if your going to stick with it pick up some used warmers even without a generator they'll help keep the heat in between sessions. I started running 1:30 at tmp so I was slow but I never had any doubt in my rubber, take offs are a good option but get your suspension setup for your weight or you'll go through tires REALLY fast.
 
Mina said:
What's the difference between warmers vs. riding at an easy pace until your tires warm up?
How does this affect the heat cycles and how is it better?

Forgive my silly questions, this is all new to me.
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No Silly questions my friend - There are guys in here way more qualified than me to talk about this but they can chime in

What's the difference between warmers vs. riding at an easy pace until your tires warm up
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Sometimes riding at slow pace will not allow your tires to ever get to the proper temperature, so don't think that because u are riding "easy" on the track that you will not find benefit from tire warmers

How does this affect the heat cycles and how is it better?
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Heat Cycling explained
Let's look at what a heat cycle is, and what it does to the tire. We will concentrate on the tread compound, but there are similar benefits for the other compounds in the tire that actually hold everything together.To understand what happens in a heat cycle, let's talk about the molecules that make up the compound. For those of you who don't remember your high school chemistry classes, the molecules that make up polymers are long chains of atoms. To kind of visualize this, think of a bunch of rubber bands. Imagine that they have all been cut with a pair of scissors so that they are not closed loops anymore. Now throw a bunch of them into a box and shake it up. Those represent the polymer molecules.
In addition to being highly intermingled, these molecules are connected, (or attracted), to each other by a variety of chemical networks. For simplicity, we will refer to all of these networks as chemical bonds. These bonds, (or attractions), are what we are concerned with here. During the manufacturing process, these bonds form in a more or less disorganized way. Some of the bonds are very short and strong. Some of them are very long and weak. The rest of them vary between the two.
Now, when you take that tire and run it, things start to happen. The molecules get stretched and compressed. This first causes the weaker bonds that connect these molecules to break. When the bonds break, heat is generated. As the heat builds and the flexing continues, more bonds break, more heat is generated, stronger bonds break, more heat is generated, and so on... Remember that these bonds are what connect the molecules to each other. They give the compound its strength. When this strength is reduced, the compound can't grip the road surface as well. It rubs off instead of holding together. The result is less grip, more slip on the road surface, more heat generated, and more tread wear. You can see that it can become a self perpetuating kind of thing. How fast this all occurs determines how fast the tires "Go Off".
So then, what happens in a heat cycle that can improve this pretty bleak situation? Well, actually, the situation described above is the first step in the heat cycle process. You want to break all of those "uneven" bonds. Because what happens next is where the real magic of alchemy comes into play. After these bonds have broken, and this heat has been generated, and the tires are finally allowed to be set aside and relax, the bonds tend to REFORM! But now they reform in a much more uniform manner! This means that they are more consistent in strength. Therefore, the compound becomes more resistant to losing its strength the next time the tires are run. That doesn't mean that you can't make the tires give up anymore. If you exceed the limits of the compound, (both mechanical and thermal), the bonds will still break. But they will be more resistant to it because they are working together now as equals (in parallel), instead of individually (in series). And, given the time to relax again, they will reform again in the same uniform manner.Here is the most important thing to learn, and remember about this process. These bonds MUST be given ENOUGH TIME to do their magical reformation. In the case of the R1, the tires must be allowed relax for an absolute minimum of 24 hrs after that initial "break in". I will sometimes tell people to wait up to a week to be sure. But we really haven't seen any additional advantage to waiting any longer than that. If you don't give the tires enough time to reform those bonds though, then you are going out on tires with a weakened compound and their performance will show it. Understanding how this works, and how to use it to your advantage, is important to getting the most from your tires.
 
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ZX600 said:
In the case of the R1, the tires must be allowed relax for an absolute minimum of 24 hrs after that initial "break in". I will sometimes tell people to wait up to a week to be sure. But we really haven't seen any additional advantage to waiting any longer than that. If you don't give the tires enough time to reform those bonds though, then you are going out on tires with a weakened compound and their performance will show it. Understanding how this works, and how to use it to your advantage, is important to getting the most from your tires.
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Im assuming the above is in reference to a car racing tire (i.e. bf goodrich r1). Does the same hold true for DOT/Race motorcycle tires? Does one need to allow the tire to relax?
 
Thanks for all the help/suggestions guys.
I pulled the trigger on a 2005 CBR600RR track bike and with the help of InfernoBuster, the bike is now in my garage.
Basic set up, Armour Bodies track fairings, Ohlins forks springs/pistons with a clean title and got it on the cheap.
Not sure if I will be able to get out to the track this year but next year for sure....
See you guys out there!

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