Difficulty of Chain / Sprocket replacement. | GTAMotorcycle.com

Difficulty of Chain / Sprocket replacement.

M

mimico_polak

Well-known member
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Hi all,

Looks like my chain is basically gonzo. Very loose and at 26,000km it's time for a change. How bad is the level of work required to replace it?

I found this unit: https://fortnine.ca/en/rk-520-steel...LZzLuB7xwJh3jf2fGucPlYPiVS-gPHKcaAtDxEALw_wcB

Price seems alright as I can't really find a better deal on it.

The only tool I appear to be missing is the chain tool to rivet the chain master once I connect everything in. I've got the rest of the tools and will order the chain in the next few days (unless I find a stupid deal on something else).

Rear wheel is off the ground as I've got the center stand.

Biggest concerns for me are:
- completing the link with the master (due to lack of tool)
- re-aligning the rear wheel to make sure it's 100% (or as close to) straight

Thanks!
 
As always I will mention EK chains that use a screw type master link, they have been completely painless installs for me.

mimico_polak said:
Are those safe? I read somewhere they’re not recommended for the street because of various reasons (not secure, high speed, etc) but it could just be my ignorance on the topics.
Click to expand...
This is a somewhat contentious topic
 
Racers have been using them since always... frequent, sometimes stupid gear ratio changes.
Just be sure to install it correctly, if you're the nervous type you can safety wire it.

Most of my bikes have a "clip" type master. I have two that I haven't replaced the chain yet, both have rivet type masters, installed by someone else... both riveted too tight which makes a tight spot in the chain.
When aligning the rear wheel, do not use the marks on the swing arm. I usually measure, with a tape or a yard stick, from center line of the axle to center line of the swing arm pivot, on both sides. The procedure is in the manual, no sweat.
If you want to come up here I'll lend you a rivet tool.
 
mimico_polak said:
Are those safe? I read somewhere they’re not recommended for the street because of various reasons (not secure, high speed, etc) but it could just be my ignorance on the topics.
Click to expand...

This is for the CB500X, right? I would have no concerns running a clip link on that, but maybe that's just me. I used clip links on a Ninja 500 for quite a few years without trouble.

If you go for the rivet style, you definitely need to buy or borrow the tool. And if you're borrowing the tool, also borrow the person who has done the riveting before. Your first inclination might be to crank the tool down as hard as you can, but you just want to flare the rivet the specified distance (use a micrometer). Takes a little bit of practice. With clips there's no guessing - it's obvious when the clip is on right.

I've never tried the EK screw-type master links mentioned above, but they do look easy to work with
 
Keeping the same number of teeth? Changing the ratio is fun but then speedometer is off.

I did mine with a friend and i'm not very good at mechanical stuff (i can do suspension, brakes, as my most "advanced" swaps on a car but that's with help/supervision) and ran a clip until i didnt have the bike anymore.

The rear wheel adjustment was a bit of a ***** but seems like we got it in properly as i didnt get weird wear and tear on it.
Good luck
 
Wingboy said:
Helps if you have an accurate way to measure the distance between the outside plates being riveted.
I use a motion pro alignment tool.
Motion Pro 08-0048 Chain Alignment Tool Motion Pro 08-0048 Chain Alignment Tool, Chains - Amazon Canada
Click to expand...

Is that what that tool is for? I may be showing my ignorance, but I always thought that was for seeing if your axle was perpendicular to the chain?

And my two cents on chain rivet tools, buy a halfway decent one, don't trust your life to pot metal.

Not an endorsement, but an fyi:
 
master links with the clip have been used successfully for hundred's of years
on a street bike, installed properly, there is little risk of it coming apart

the rivet type does give you piece of mind though, also if done properly
in the dirt or on the track, yeah I'd be riveting

should be some graduations on the swingarm to aid in wheel alignment
 
mimico_polak said:
Are those safe? I read somewhere they’re not recommended for the street because of various reasons (not secure, high speed, etc) but it could just be my ignorance on the topics.
Click to expand...
You have a 40hp bike, chance of ripping off a master link is zero. In 40 years of riding I have always used master links on bikes twice as powerful and never broke/lost one, never seen one lost. They are one and done installs, if you remove one you need to replace it with a new one.

Removing and replacing sprockets is bolts out, bolts in. Torque.

Aligning a wheel is easy. Youtube videos are abundant, easier to watch one than read instructions here.

As for kits, I usually buy the parts separately. Prices vary widely from retailer to retailer, chains go on sale frequently.

Remove the old chain with a grinder, Dremel or file.
 
Wingboy said:
Helps if you have an accurate way to measure the distance between the outside plates being riveted.
I use a motion pro alignment tool.
Motion Pro 08-0048 Chain Alignment Tool Motion Pro 08-0048 Chain Alignment Tool, Chains - Amazon Canada
Click to expand...
I’ve got a micrometer. May be a little too detailed but should do the trick.

Thanks all for the suggestion and tips. Highly appreciate it.

where are you located @bitzz?

@LePhillou yes I’m keeping the same teeth sprockets. Don’t see much need to change it.
 
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LePhillou said:
Keeping the same number of teeth? Changing the ratio is fun but then speedometer is off.
Click to expand...
The speedo drives off the front wheel, it doesn't change. If you change sprocket size it only alters the engine rpm to specific road speed.
CB500X uses a bolt and washer to hold on the countershaft sprocket so that part won't be too tough. Put the bike in gear before you take the chain off and loosen the bolt but leave it in place until the process is complete.
 
TK4 said:
The speedo drives off the front wheel, it doesn't change. If you change sprocket size it only alters the engine rpm to specific road speed.
CB500X uses a bolt and washer to hold on the countershaft sprocket so that part won't be too tough. Put the bike in gear before you take the chain off and loosen the bolt but leave it in place until the process is complete.
Click to expand...
I had a good 10-15% difference between speedo and and actual speed. Verified against other motorcycles and my phone's gps. I did change teeth in front (-) AND in back (+) to make it more of a torque machine since i didn't really need top end speed as much (i used it mainly for commuting at that point)
 
LePhillou said:
I had a good 10-15% difference between speedo and and actual speed. Verified against other motorcycles and my phone's gps. I did change teeth in front (-) AND in back (+) to make it more of a torque machine since i didn't really need top end speed as much (i used it mainly for commuting at that point)
Click to expand...
That’s likely speedo error. Bike speedos don’t work like cars, bikes count revolution of the metered wheel, could be front or back wheel depending on the bike. The only way to change that is to change tire size on the metered wheel.
 
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