Didnt get to winterize my bike!

I do not have to take my battery else, BMW has a nice plug I can just connect to, so when I am ready to ride again, I just pull the plug and back out, no need to remove the seat or anything. It is pricier then the battery tenders you can get at Canadian tire, but the convince and ease of use is worth it for me.

Just run the bike to charge the batt, I ride S1000rr no issues so far since last year. Selling it after summer for 899 panigale though.
 
Just run the bike to charge the batt, I ride S1000rr no issues so far since last year. Selling it after summer for 899 panigale though.

That is horrible advice, unless it is run up to full operating temp.
 
I wouldn't pay attention about running it up to full temp, but I do have a tendency to ride the bike in my condo's garage during the process, as you can't help staring at the bike but not riding it LOL. Personally I don't give a damn about condensation. It's the same thing after you park your bike on a rainy day, water gets in everywhere and condensation occurs inside the bike because the rain water is cooling the bike off effectively. I have never seen or heard of bikes getting ruined because of condensation over the winter, most probably due to salt.
 
I just take the battery out and change the oil usually. Not worried about anything else, including the tires. Long term storage would be a different story but winter is not long term (even though sometimes it feels like it).

With a carbed bike, draining the carbs or putting the fuel stabilizer in may be a good idea. I had to deal with plugged up carbs once, not so much fun.
 
Cold starts do the majority of wear so you should really consider doing a top-end rebuild after every cold start. The next issue is fuel degredation so you definitely should consider draining the tank and doing a fuil system flush at least every month. Next up is the moisture in the exhaust system after these short engine run-times. Consider replacing your exhaust in the Sping due to this as it will no doubt be full of rust (or at the very least take the exhaust off the motorcycle immediately after each run, but let it cool down first as that would just be silly, and wipe it out to avoid rusting).
 
Cold starts do the majority of wear so you should really consider doing a top-end rebuild after every cold start. The next issue is fuel degredation so you definitely should consider draining the tank and doing a fuil system flush at least every month. Next up is the moisture in the exhaust system after these short engine run-times. Consider replacing your exhaust in the Sping due to this as it will no doubt be full of rust (or at the very least take the exhaust off the motorcycle immediately after each run, but let it cool down first as that would just be silly, and wipe it out to avoid rusting).

The first half of each of your statements is correct, your conclusions to them are all hyperbole.
 
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Cold starts do the majority of wear so you should really consider doing a top-end rebuild after every cold start. The next issue is fuel degredation so you definitely should consider draining the tank and doing a fuil system flush at least every month. Next up is the moisture in the exhaust system after these short engine run-times. Consider replacing your exhaust in the Sping due to this as it will no doubt be full of rust (or at the very least take the exhaust off the motorcycle immediately after each run, but let it cool down first as that would just be silly, and wipe it out to avoid rusting).

This quote is GTAM. God I laughed so hard
 
For an hour or two work, I would do it if I were you. I only store my bike for the least amount of time possible which is about 3 months but we've had an early winter this year which sucks. I just do a full oil change, take the battery out and leave it on a tender, fuel stabilizer and run it for 5 minutes so its not just sitting in your gas tank. Lastly I put it on a bike stand and cover it up. My bike is carb'd, I don't drain the carb however if I were to leave it for a longer period of time (6 months)I would defiantly do it.
 
It'll be fine. Only thing I ever did with my last bike for winterizing is change the oil.
 
For an hour or two work, I would do it if I were you. I only store my bike for the least amount of time possible which is about 3 months but we've had an early winter this year which sucks. I just do a full oil change, take the battery out and leave it on a tender, fuel stabilizer and run it for 5 minutes so its not just sitting in your gas tank. Lastly I put it on a bike stand and cover it up. My bike is carb'd, I don't drain the carb however if I were to leave it for a longer period of time (6 months)I would defiantly do it.

If you have the time do the above, it's good advice. If you don't, then add stabilizer, run until fully warmed up and leave balance to spring. A battery tender would be a good idea too.
 
When I had my first Ninja 250, I did not winterize it at all. In the spring I just had to push-start it)) Then I made about 12K before Auguts, when I burned a hole in the engine due to hard use)))
I do not have enough space now to keep my bike at home, therefore I just call Ken and then pick up the bike in spring. SOAR does all winterizing, oil change, battery charging, at least supposed to))
 
there seem to be two sides:
1) riders who leave the bike, don't do anything and start it up in summer.

2) riders who do proper winterizing to prolong bike life and performance.

the group 1) are the one that don't care, or replace bikes every few years, so don't even notice the damage done, the problems are passed on to the next rider or the one after etc.
group 2) are riders who either enjoy working on their bikes and keeping peak performance regardless or how long they plan on keeping the bike, or riders who plan on keeping their bikes for years to come and want optimal performance.

your call. cheers. ;)
 
i don't plan on keeping my bikes. i replace em every few years or ride them in to the ground. its a hobby not an investment to me. bike now has 85,000k on it
 
there seem to be two sides:
1) riders who leave the bike, don't do anything and start it up in summer.

2) riders who do proper winterizing to prolong bike life and performance.

the group 1) are the one that don't care, or replace bikes every few years, so don't even notice the damage done, the problems are passed on to the next rider or the one after etc.
group 2) are riders who either enjoy working on their bikes and keeping peak performance regardless or how long they plan on keeping the bike, or riders who plan on keeping their bikes for years to come and want optimal performance.

your call. cheers. ;)

What a pile of crap. My bike has 50k and I don't replace my bikes every few years at all. Plus I don't even winterize my race bike, only thing I do is drain the water. Prolong performance has nothing to do with winterizing the bike

Gtam as always offering the best advice.
 
Cold starts do the majority of wear so you should really consider doing a top-end rebuild after every cold start. The next issue is fuel degredation so you definitely should consider draining the tank and doing a fuil system flush at least every month. Next up is the moisture in the exhaust system after these short engine run-times. Consider replacing your exhaust in the Sping due to this as it will no doubt be full of rust (or at the very least take the exhaust off the motorcycle immediately after each run, but let it cool down first as that would just be silly, and wipe it out to avoid rusting).


Rage-well-done.png



you had me for about 5 seconds.
 
there seem to be two sides:
1) riders who leave the bike, don't do anything and start it up in summer.

2) riders who do proper winterizing to prolong bike life and performance.

The group 1) are the one that don't care, or replace bikes every few years, so don't even notice the damage done, the problems are passed on to the next rider or the one after etc.
Group 2) are riders who either enjoy working on their bikes and keeping peak performance regardless or how long they plan on keeping the bike, or riders who plan on keeping their bikes for years to come and want optimal performance.
and now the question:
where is chuck norris?
 
What a pile of crap. My bike has 50k and I don't replace my bikes every few years at all. Plus I don't even winterize my race bike, only thing I do is drain the water. Prolong performance has nothing to do with winterizing the bike

Gtam as always offering the best advice.

how is it crap? lol

just saying, there are people who enjoy taking care of bikes and people who just leave it.

some people like the colour blue, some like green. no right or wrong answer.

but love how worked up people get over this stuff. :lmao:
 
I do not have to take my battery else, BMW has a nice plug I can just connect to, so when I am ready to ride again, I just pull the plug and back out, no need to remove the seat or anything. It is pricier then the battery tenders you can get at Canadian tire, but the convince and ease of use is worth it for me.
My plug for my heated vest is connected directly to the battery. I can just use that plug to charge battery.
I wouldn't pay attention about running it up to full temp, but I do have a tendency to ride the bike in my condo's garage during the process, as you can't help staring at the bike but not riding it LOL. Personally I don't give a damn about condensation. It's the same thing after you park your bike on a rainy day, water gets in everywhere and condensation occurs inside the bike because the rain water is cooling the bike off effectively. I have never seen or heard of bikes getting ruined because of condensation over the winter, most probably due to salt.
How cold is rain water during summer? 20*C??
Your engine might be at freezing during winter. That moisture in the engine does not burn off & refreezes, causing icicles in the engine before your next startup.

Plus water in engine + oil = emulsion = sludge
Look at a car that is driven for short periods in winter months. The oil cap is covered with a nice layer of goo
 
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