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DID chain has crappy x-rings?!
- Thread starter itsme
- Start date
Are you being sarcastic or is that a thing?Time to buy a new maintenance free chain
Trials
Well-known member
That's what they are sometimes called right on the package real thing,
Maintenance Free Roller Chain
it's a sealed chain, you just need to keep it clean, adjusted and rust free,
the parts that need the grease the most were greased by the factory and sealed with rubber rings, the worst thing that can happen is that water gets past the seals and displaces the grease causing rust. Don't power wash your chain.
The little tiny cylinder rollers in the middle are the only thing you can oil and they don't really turn much anyway.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I think OP damaged his chain with too much love. The steel brush marks are tell tale. If you have an O or X ring chain there is virtually no maintenance required.
Summarizing other posts: pressure wash is bad as it will displace sealed grease. Brushing can tear rings. Lube does little as you can’t get it past the rings.
Finally, if you have damaged an X/O ring chain, treat it like a regular chain and lube every 1000km to maximize what’s left in its life.
Summarizing other posts: pressure wash is bad as it will displace sealed grease. Brushing can tear rings. Lube does little as you can’t get it past the rings.
Finally, if you have damaged an X/O ring chain, treat it like a regular chain and lube every 1000km to maximize what’s left in its life.
Something is up and not sure what. Honestly part of me wonders if it's counterfeit, DID X-ring chains have been around long for that to happen. If it was fake though I would expect it to have just regular O-rings. Seems incorrect cleaning is more likely, but... OP's friend casts a shade of doubt on that.
As far as recommending a replacement chain (and assuming that you don't want the same one, as DID chains are as good as anyone else's) - I like EK chains that can be installed with their screw type master links, especially the later versions (earlier versions the pins are a bit more noticeable). Don't ask me what the effective difference is between the SRX2, MVZX2 and ZVX3 though - I have spent some head scratching on that
As far as recommending a replacement chain (and assuming that you don't want the same one, as DID chains are as good as anyone else's) - I like EK chains that can be installed with their screw type master links, especially the later versions (earlier versions the pins are a bit more noticeable). Don't ask me what the effective difference is between the SRX2, MVZX2 and ZVX3 though - I have spent some head scratching on that
Trials
Well-known member
Probably about 100$ or more
Think I'm in the same camp as the original poster. 14k and my DID O-ring was completely stretched out. I'm sure all the clutchless shifting and engine braking doesn't help either. Think the clean it until it looks new approach was the culprit.
On a side note holy hell are moto chains a pain in the ass to rivet. I've been spoiled by dainty 11spd bicycle chains. 4 hours of grinding and swearing and the new x-ring chain is on. Going to go with the set it and forget it approach this time.
On a side note holy hell are moto chains a pain in the ass to rivet. I've been spoiled by dainty 11spd bicycle chains. 4 hours of grinding and swearing and the new x-ring chain is on. Going to go with the set it and forget it approach this time.
I'm telling you folks, EK screw links are great
I changed my OEM DID at 45k, could have gone longer but i didn't want to push the envelope.
Usually a quick lube with Wurth HHS2000 after a rainy commute. Clean down with a rag and WD40 prior to that.
If you guys are blowing through chains before 20kms you are doing something wrong.
Usually a quick lube with Wurth HHS2000 after a rainy commute. Clean down with a rag and WD40 prior to that.
If you guys are blowing through chains before 20kms you are doing something wrong.
Trials
Well-known member
4 hours! What were you using a hand file and a dull rock?
4 hours! What were you using a hand file and a dull rock?
Well that also included front + rear sprockets, eating dinner, 1 (or 2) trips to the Home Depot, and trying to decipher the comically bad translated instructions for the DID chain tool.
Still want to go back and put a locking front sprocket nut on. Seems insane there is nothing but a dab of Loctite to keep it in place on the R3. The rear sprocket nuts were on tighter than the front nut. Also every fastener on this bike is metric, why the hell did they stick a 1-1/8” sprocket nut on it??
They didn't. It's 29mm.Torque the front sprocket properly with a tiny dab of blue loctite (NOT red) and it will be fine.
I'll take that over the front sprocket on a GS500 being held on by a C clip. It has enough play to slide around and occasionally make a slapping sound when leaving a stop
As long as your chain is aligned properly you can remove that clip. The sprocket shouldn't fall off. The chain will hold it in alignment.
Brake rotors are held on with Loctite as well if you’re gonna get paranoid about it.
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