Decks boards... where to buy?

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Trex is less than cedar at home hardware long weekend sale. Was 9000 after tax for 1500 sq feet including edge boards and fasteners. 2 dollars a foot for 5/4x6 or 40dollars a 20 footer.
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How do you fasten those down? Excuse my ignorance on this one.

Edit. Also, unless Trex is different stuff, it gets very hot under bare feet in the sun. Had to wear flip flops on one deck in Costa Rica.
 
jc100 said:
How do you fasten those down? Excuse my ignorance on this one.

Edit. Also, unless Trex is different stuff, it gets very hot under bare feet in the sun. Had to wear flip flops on one deck in Costa Rica.
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There are clips that go in the grooves in the sides of the boards.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Scuba Steve said:
There are clips that go in the grooves in the sides of the boards.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
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Thanks. This looks like a neat project for a small pergola I have with damaged deck boards. I would need to do some notching of a few boards, I guess that’s done easily with a jigsaw? Do you just leave raw cut edges when you do this or are there edging pieces? I need to notch around the 4 supports for the pergola.
 
They make both a sq edge product and a grooved edge. you start with a sq edge at the outside of the deck , switch to grooved which goes down with a clip and screw system. Some folks use the fascia boards up to cover the edge, its an option. There are a lot of tutorials on the Trex website.
It cuts with a jig saw, but buy the best blades you can get and be prepared to change them when the dull (fast) . Same with using a circular saw or miter saw, just budget for a new blade and it will be useless for anything else once you have cut trex. The proprietary mix of plastics and wood fibers is very dulling.
It gets hot under bare feet, I've had 500sq ft in the back for 20yrs. Its no worse than a Caribbean beach, flip flops.....
 
I've used the sq edge trex in place of outside wooden 1x2 stops on window / door replacements.
Cut it to size, and stick it on with PL.
No siding brake or aluminium capping needed. It saves several trips up and down the ladder too.
Highly recommended for garage door capping, as it won't dent like aluminium.
 
There is a pretty good selection of PVC moldings and trim boards availble everywhere these days that are easier to cut than Trex and have a more homogenious core ( they work more like mdf) and readily accept paint. Its the new norm for trims if you dont want dents.

One of my associates put a new Yakima hardshell case on the Yukon Denali truck, his wife drove it home from the install shop. No kind of garage door molding would have stopped that dent.
 
crankcall said:
There is a pretty good selection of PVC moldings and trim boards availble everywhere these days that are easier to cut than Trex and have a more homogenious core ( they work more like mdf) and readily accept paint. Its the new norm for trims if you dont want dents.

One of my associates put a new Yakima hardshell case on the Yukon Denali truck, his wife drove it home from the install shop. No kind of garage door molding would have stopped that dent.
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That's an interesting experiment in what breaks first. There is a little trim, but presumably the box would have hit the beam above the door. So did the box, clips or rack cry uncle? Or if they got really unlucky, I guess the beam could have been knocked loose.
 
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