One of the most used tools for motorcycles, yet most are crap unless you buy the professional brands at a premium price. Anyone have a set they can recommend? Anyone have Husky from Home Depot or feedback on them?
I have generic from princess auto ($15) and some from MAC ($80). They both work fine.
In a lot of cases a home mechanic can do fine with medium duty tools. I cringe when I watch DIY experts lean into their tools —you need to know how to use a tool. T-handle drivers are good for a few pounds of torque, you can’t hang a pipe wrench on the handle to loosen a stuck bolt - even with the best tool. Use your hex socket to loosen stuck bolts and to torque bolts.
I have different sets for different uses. Work Bondus ball end and DIY T handles mad with Bondus square end shafts. Home Bonus ball end and Eklind Soft Grip in a rack on the side of the bench for general grab a wrench stuff. The Eklinds are nice for the ham-fisted because they let you know you're getting retarded with them and they're good quality for the money.
I don't own a set of T-handles. When I worked in a machine shop we used them all the time. They are long, you can spin them to get things in or out quickly and you are not likely to strip anything with the T-handle. You still need conventional keys for final torque (or breaking free stuck fasteners if bumping the T-handle with your hand doesn't work).
Given how cheap cordless tools have become, I have a set of long allen keys that fit a 3/8" drive that fulfill the role for me now.
I have princess auto T handles, they work great AS DESIGNED. They are great for spinning in multiple fasteners , assembling furniture or bicycle parts but if it doesn't break loose easily or needs more "tight" than wrist tight, get a different tool.
I've had PA's for years. Not worn or broke, and if they do, you take them back for refund or replacement.
If I lost them, I'd buy this set for home use....
I don't own a set of T-handles. When I worked in a machine shop we used them all the time. They are long, you can spin them to get things in or out quickly and you are not likely to strip anything with the T-handle. You still need conventional keys for final torque (or breaking free stuck fasteners if bumping the T-handle with your hand doesn't work).
Given how cheap cordless tools have become, I have a set of long allen keys that fit a 3/8" drive that fulfill the role for me now.
I didnt see wear. There are some situations that require the ball. If it's really stuck, the ball is bad. You either bear on 20% of the available contact area or break the ball off.
Ball heads will round eventually but it takes a lot of use. I have a 10yr old set of Eklind that are still good. Just don't crank on them when they are angled. If you do a lot of fasteners it is a little easier than the regular flat cut ones. You can also grind the ball off if it gets too rounded over.
I didnt see wear. There are some situations that require the ball. If it's really stuck, the ball is bad. You either bear on 20% of the available contact area or break the ball off.
You can't man-grip balled ended hex keys, they will only take a few ft.lbs of torque. Best to use a jointed swivel and a proper socket on stuck hex bolts. Also, a 12 or 18v impact driver is the most I'd use on anything under 5mm if it's stuck.
It's nice because you flip the head to 90 to break the fastener free or to do the final torque, and flip it straight to zip the fastener on or off like a ratcheting screwdriver. No need to switch tools. I think I got mine for $12 on sale.
Although now 90% of the time I reach for my Milwaukee M12 impact driver for little stuff like bodywork fasteners.
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