Dead battery? | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Dead battery?

fitting is the important thing
if it doesn't fit, nothing else about it matters

CCA rating is a bit lower, may struggle if the ambient temps/engine are cold

if it were me, I'd check out SaskBatt
and get an AGM battery, they are more durable
free delivery in like 2 days
 
I just checked SaskBatt. They don't seem to have my specs. I have scoured the web, haha couldnt find anything under 150 bucks, and cheaper ones are all in the US who wont ship to Canada (battery shipping is not allowed via UPS/USPS apparently). Does anybody have a familiarity with a store that sells ~120 CCA, 12V, ~7.4 Ah battery with 114mm x 69mm x (130-132mm) for under 100 bucks?
 
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Yamaha #: GSGTZ8V
Yuasa HIGH PERFORMANCE AGM: YTZ8V
Yuasa AGM: YTX7L-BS
battery-image_YTX7L-BS.x78244.png


measure your batt compartment to see if the extra few mm will even fit...and the terminal orientation.


 
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Yamaha #: GSGTZ8V
Yuasa HIGH PERFORMANCE AGM: YTZ8V
Yuasa AGM: YTX7L-BS
battery-image_YTX7L-BS.x78244.png


measure your batt compartment to see if the extra few mm will even fit...and the terminal orientation.




Yeah, I don't think I can buy anything bigger. I tried fitting the battery in, and it barely sits. There are some foams around it though that I could remove. But I will still look for 130-131 mm height. 100-140 cca and around 7-8 Ah.
 

Point taken, but most of the time just because something is inexpensive doesn't necessarily mean it is crap too.
 
I got 9 seasons out of my OEM Yuasa and I'm just starting season 9 on my second Yuasa. Always use a battery tender.

Sounds to me like your battery connections might have been were corroded. Lights work, but starter won't. When was the last time you disconnected battery and cleaned the terminals? I clean the terminals and everything attached to it (Battery Tender Junior leads and wiring for air horn, GPS and heated gear) in April and again mid season.

Have the battery tested as a precaution. If you need to replace it don't cheap out with a battery with less CCA than the OEM, false economy. Pete's can ship you a battery in a few days at a competitive price.
 
Had the same issue on 2016 R3 (which i brought in 2017), left the battery in the bike connected to the battery tenderjr using the quick disconnect cable that came with the OEM battery for winter. Last year spring bike wont start. Took the battery out charged with car charger for two days and bike started. It would run fine. Took the bike to dealer put it on battery load testing for a day, he said battery is good. They also told me that they dont a new battery in stock at that time . I rode entire 2018 however randomly bike wont start after parking. It was annoying as hell as everytime i rode it i wasnt sure whether it will start or not . :D It was very random. I havent changed the battery but will be the first thing i am going to do this week.
This is the "OEM" battery:

This is the Shorai Li-Ion alternative:
(however shorai's warranty is pro-rated)
Heard good things about EarthX battery:
This is the battery model for R3:
I think leaving the battery in the bike (in cold garage) is/was a bad idea, whether it was connected to tender or not. But these batteries are friggin' expensive. :censored:
 
Had the same issue on 2016 R3 (which i brought in 2017), left the battery in the bike connected to the battery tenderjr using the quick disconnect cable that came with the OEM battery for winter. Last year spring bike wont start. Took the battery out charged with car charger for two days and bike started. It would run fine. Took the bike to dealer put it on battery load testing for a day, he said battery is good. They also told me that they dont a new battery in stock at that time . I rode entire 2018 however randomly bike wont start after parking. It was annoying as hell as everytime i rode it i wasnt sure whether it will start or not . :D It was very random. I havent changed the battery but will be the first thing i am going to do this week.
This is the "OEM" battery:

This is the Shorai Li-Ion alternative:
(however shorai's warranty is pro-rated)
Heard good things about EarthX battery:
This is the battery model for R3:
I think leaving the battery in the bike (in cold garage) is/was a bad idea, whether it was connected to tender or not. But these batteries are friggin' expensive. :censored:

So True! I dont wanna be in somewhere like Tobermory and the bike wont start. I might bite the bullet and just buy it for now.
 
Point taken, but most of the time just because something is inexpensive doesn't necessarily mean it is crap too.
The Kapsco batteries are junk. Go ahead, buy one, but buy a Yuasa at the same time and put it on the shelf. You'll need it.

My buddy bragged about the great deal he got on a Kapsco battery. Two months later he was opening the wallet again for a Yuasa.

Do it once, do it right.

via Tapatalk
 
So True! I dont wanna be in somewhere like Tobermory and the bike wont start. I might bite the bullet and just buy it for now.
If you're near Kapsco, you're not far from Royal Distributing. They have two batteries for your bike. The yuasa YTX7L-BS is $76.99 part number 33-510, or that same thing in the "Crank" brand is $36.99 part number 35-510.
The yuasa is a better battery in my mind, however I have the cheaper Crank battery in both bikes, one is 4 years old, the other is three years old. Not a problem so far.

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
 
Hey guys, after talking to you guys, and taking to people on Yamaha R3 forum, I finally decided to go with this Aussie brand:


MOTOBATT MTX7U

It is slightly expensive in price compared to the OEM one (Yamaha 1WD-H2100-00 BATTERY ASSY (GS GTZ8V)), but it is QUADFLEX AGM, lmao dont know what it means. But a guy recommended them, and it had good reviews on amazon too. I pulled the trigger. Its 115 cca, 8 Ah, 12 V. OEM is 120 cca, 7.4 Ah, 12V. Close enough, and the size fits! Their website says it fits on the yamaha R3 as well (They have a fitness test). thank you everyone! Learned a lot from you guys. Hopefully its not a lemon.

I felt YTX7L-BS is too small. 100 CCA, 6Ah vs the stock one. I felt MTX7U was the best. I also found CTZ8V which is an exact replacement of Yausa, but it is not available in Canada and only in the states. CTZ is made by Fire Power who are quite reputed American brand.
 
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Hey guys, so I have a similar problem. I have a Yuasa battery - most likely this one >> Yuasa AGM Battery <<

I bought it in July 2018 from VOS, rode around almost all of 2019 and grounded the motorcycle in November 2019 due to a flat tire. I do remember plugging the battery to a tender but when I last checked a few days ago the tender was unplugged (ugh). So, i'm assuming its unplugged since mid November / December 2019.

I plugged the tender back in and now it's been plugged for over 4 days but the light is still blinked red. So im thinking its either in a state of deep discharge or lost. I put the key in and flicked it on but the headlight did not turn on so I turned the bike off.

Rather than shell out another $150+ on a new battery, is it worth taking a gamble on something like this (Yuasa 1A 12V Battery Charger - YUA1201000) to see if the battery can be resuscitated?

Thoughts?
 
A tender won't charge a battery once it's fallen into a deep state of discharge, so yes, you'll need a more traditional charger to raise the voltage to start before the tender will do it's thing again.

That said, there's no guarantee the battery hasn't suffered damage as a result of being left in a low SOC for this long. Only way to find out is to get it recharged and then see how it behaves starting the bike several times back to back.
 
The link you posted is just another tender so that's not what you want. You need an actual constant rate charger, something in the 3 to 5 amp category would be ideal.

Alternately, you can just boost it from a car (or another bike, or whatever) to get it started, let it idle for 5-10 minutes to put at least a surface charge on the battery and then immediately hookup your battery tender again while the voltage is high enough to activate it and get it doing it's thing.

A small 1A tender will take at least 24/36 hours to do it's job on a depleted battery so let it sit for a bit afterwards and see what happens. If the tender switches to green indicating the battery is full, that's hopeful at least, but still not a guarantee the battery isn't damaged and is just holding a surface vs deep charge. But it's a positive.
 

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