Dead battery issue

New_Era_Inc said:
I didn't have to pry it open. It has a small notch on the side to open it and it clips back on again. There's one hole with a rubber cap underneath the seal.

I charged both batteries and they seem fine for now. If problem persists I will just get new batteries. Not worth messing around with acid ;)


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If its not maintenance free then your ok to add fluid

Just my experience with modern bikes, majority of them come with maintenance free batteries that are not designed to be opened and re-filled

Id just google the model of the battery and look for maintenance info, just to be sure before trying anything myself

Charging usually isnt a problem, its holding the charge. Most of the 30 or so dead batteries I have will take a charge, but they wont hold it. I can get the bikes started right after a charge, but then you go for a ride and it wont start again. Thats when the sad realization that I need to spend money kicks in
 
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Its a Poltergiest creating an electrical vortex around your garage. You'll need a set of bongo drums , some chicken bones and maybe a priest.

If you order KFC for the chicken bones I'll be over to help.
 
crankcall said:
Its a Poltergiest creating an electrical vortex around your garage. You'll need a set of bongo drums , some chicken bones and maybe a priest.

If you order KFC for the chicken bones I'll be over to help.
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That's a creative way of thinking. Lol I will keep that in mind.


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JohnnyP636 said:
I have probably 30 of them all dead, that I have replaced on my bikes or customers
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Want me to get rid of those for you? *visions of coffee money dance through my head *
 
Joe Bass said:
Want me to get rid of those for you? *visions of coffee money dance through my head *
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If you pay more then the scrappers, or will come get them sure!

There is a scrap yard around the corner from my shop they give me a buck or so per battery, I dont really care about the cash just good to get them disposed of properly or recycled

Want to take 100 liters of old oil too?
 
Sorry to hijack the thread..

Read the OP previously state he boosted the battery with his car, is this acceptable?

Reason I ask is, today I left my keys in my L1 GSXR ( prob sat in the ON position for 5-6 hours) and the cluster gauge lights were on with the parking lights. Noticed the F1 light was lit as well when I came back. Tried to start no crank etc... Gauge flickered but no luck.

I've read that I might have to trickle charge it.

Sorry guys just want to make sure so I won't fry anything.

Cheers :)
 
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I've heard the rule of thumb is that you can boost a bike from a car, but without the car running at the time. I've done this several times. Theory is that if the car was running the overvoltage-charging from the car's alternator may hurt the bike's electrical system. Not sure if true.
 
FLSTC said:
I've heard the rule of thumb is that you can boost a bike from a car, but without the car running at the time. I've done this several times. Theory is that if the car was running the overvoltage-charging from the car's alternator may hurt the bike's electrical system. Not sure if true.
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Definitively not true. Whoever told you that doesn't understand how electricity works.
The alternator of the boosting vehicle has an output somewhere around 100 amps, the battery of the boosting vehicle has an output somewhere around 1000 amps. The boost comes from the battery not the alternator.

... another thing; The alternator on the boosting vehicle is regulated, usually to a max of 14-14.5 volts. There is NO regulation in those booster cables. The only regulation you get in a battery to battery boost is the capacity/size of the cables.
I use double ought welding cable for boosts, they'll carry 1000 amps at 12 volt NO PROBLEM. That's plasma cutter territory.

Boosting a vehicle should be the last resort. If you have a charger and the time, use the charger.
The alternator/generator on a vehicle is designed to keep the battery charge topped up, not to charge a dead battery.
 
Sealed motorcycle batteries never need a fillup. They are AGM types, have a glass mat between the cells and the fluid is held in suspension. The clear ones with the sight lines need top up from time to time with distilled water.


3 - 5 years is what I usually get for my batteries before they start acting up. My harley was slowing down when turning over, this went on for about 3 months before it finally failed in a parking lot at a hardware store. Huge pain. Had to call the wife and she brought my tools and we went to Walmart near by and got a replacement off the shelf. A sealed battery but had to add the acid on the curb and wait for it to settle before starting it. Not what the instructions called for but I had no choice.


Buy new batteries, they are $75 - $120 each depending on the model. Cheap insurance.
 
Thanks to all for your comments and advice. Both batteries are maintenance free. My battery is still holding a charge and it was a coincidence that they both died at the same time. I have replaced the Ducati's battery because I don't think it has ever been replaced. It died on us the other day. I had to roll start the bike. Purchased it from Amazon for $59 including shipping and taxes. Btw boosting a battery with a car battery is completely fine and won't harm the bike or the battery.


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johnscruiser said:
That's a little crazy. Is it a name brand battery? If not you can get a knock off for under $30 at GP bikes.
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It's on sale from $89.99. KMG brand. It's OEM replacement for Ducati.


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FLSTC said:
I've heard the rule of thumb is that you can boost a bike from a car, but without the car running at the time. I've done this several times. Theory is that if the car was running the overvoltage-charging from the car's alternator may hurt the bike's electrical system. Not sure if true.
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bitzz said:
Definitively not true. Whoever told you that doesn't understand how electricity works.
The alternator of the boosting vehicle has an output somewhere around 100 amps, the battery of the boosting vehicle has an output somewhere around 1000 amps. The boost comes from the battery not the alternator.

... another thing; The alternator on the boosting vehicle is regulated, usually to a max of 14-14.5 volts. There is NO regulation in those booster cables. The only regulation you get in a battery to battery boost is the capacity/size of the cables.
I use double ought welding cable for boosts, they'll carry 1000 amps at 12 volt NO PROBLEM. That's plasma cutter territory.

Boosting a vehicle should be the last resort. If you have a charger and the time, use the charger.
The alternator/generator on a vehicle is designed to keep the battery charge topped up, not to charge a dead battery.
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does the bike have an alternator or a Stator and RR

Most cars put out 14+ volts, and have alternators that are capable of doing that at idle speeds. If you connect that to your bike, the regulator (R/R) on your bike is going to try to regulate it to what it thinks is the proper voltage, which might be exactly 14.0 volts. To regulate voltage, it shorts what it considers to be excess directly to ground. When the car sees this load, it increases its output to try to compensate. Meanwhile your R/R is trying DESPERATELY to regulate the voltage by keeping that short to ground active. The problem here is that the R/R is only rated for about 25 amps, the car's alternator is going to be putting out a LOT more than that.

Guess which system loses?
 
New_Era_Inc said:
That's the one. Sorry list price was $79.99.

Are they any good ? Anyone use them before ?
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My friend has 22 of them in the trunk of his car. Used to have 24 but within three months two of them failed. I guess for bottom dollar battery right from the depths of China they are pretty good.
 
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