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Cylinder Base Condition
- Thread starter Rockwell
- Start date
A bit of flange sealant 515 or 518 locktite in the area and bolt it up.
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I would:
- Prepare the pistons and piston rings for installation, and have the cylinder, head gasket, cylinder head, and fasteners ready to go for both cylinders.
- Lay down a thin bead of grey Permatex MotoSeal or some other such thing around the perimeter of that opening on the underside of the base gasket, set the gasket down on the crankcases (be sure to have any locating dowels already in so that the gasket sits in the right spot), lay another thin bead on top of the gasket around that opening to make sure (in case the affected area isn't properly compressing the embossed part of the gasket).
- Immediately fit the cylinder over the piston and rings, obviously taking care to properly route the timing chain and guides as you do so, and press it down on top of the base gasket.
- Fit the head gasket and cylinder head, again routing timing chain and guides properly through it.
- Snug the cylinder head down, then torque the cylinder head fasteners to about half of specified torque, then do the same for the other cylinder, then go have a coffee and let it all sit for an hour (to let the sealant cure partially), then finish torquing down the head. If KTM has you do the cylinder head fastener torques in two steps, do the first step, then wait, then do the second step.
- Prepare the pistons and piston rings for installation, and have the cylinder, head gasket, cylinder head, and fasteners ready to go for both cylinders.
- Lay down a thin bead of grey Permatex MotoSeal or some other such thing around the perimeter of that opening on the underside of the base gasket, set the gasket down on the crankcases (be sure to have any locating dowels already in so that the gasket sits in the right spot), lay another thin bead on top of the gasket around that opening to make sure (in case the affected area isn't properly compressing the embossed part of the gasket).
- Immediately fit the cylinder over the piston and rings, obviously taking care to properly route the timing chain and guides as you do so, and press it down on top of the base gasket.
- Fit the head gasket and cylinder head, again routing timing chain and guides properly through it.
- Snug the cylinder head down, then torque the cylinder head fasteners to about half of specified torque, then do the same for the other cylinder, then go have a coffee and let it all sit for an hour (to let the sealant cure partially), then finish torquing down the head. If KTM has you do the cylinder head fastener torques in two steps, do the first step, then wait, then do the second step.
That pause in torquing down is a very good idea.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Hes working the base of cylinder -- a lot more forgiving than the head. The most critical thing for op is sealing the water jacket AND facilitating an old bike repair on a student wage.
I think I am going to pick up some Hylomar, either M or Universal Blue, both of which are non-setting, non-hardening jointing compounds. Because of this, their features include unlimited assembly time, which is nice. Also, I'm not sure if this is accurate, but this guy explains one of the benefits of non-hardening, non-setting jointing compounds: TLDW, because Hylomar is non-hardening and non-setting, its more adaptive to vibration and pressure cycles, which makes it a better sealant.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Permatex Blue and Hylomar are the same animals -- Permatex licenses the stuff from Hylomar.
Is THIS the stuff?
If so, it's labelled as an RTV sealant, which, from what I've read, is a room temperature vulcanizing (hardening) sealant. It's not really advertised as non-hardening or non-setting, but it does say "remains flexible" on the front package, so being called an RTV sealant seems a bit ambiguous.
The stuff needs to cure (so that it doesn't dissolve/wash away) but it needs to remain flexible (so that it seals). That's RTV. I've never used Hylomar. Permatex MotoSeal (grey) works. Surely others will also. It has to cure (vulcanize). It can't be just grease...it has to stay put.
You are overthinking this.
You are overthinking this.
That's probably because I have no idea what I am doing. I've done all my work on my bike since I got it, but this is the first time doing engine work. It's a bit intimidating.
Was just about to go pick some of this (SteelStik) up today and checked the temperature rating - it says up to 300 F. I'm wondering how this will be at that spot in the engine and in contact with the coolant.
I bought THIS radiator temperature sensor to replace my original one year ago, and it turns the cooling fan on at 180 F instead of 210 F. I'm not entirely sure if the coolant temperature gets up past 300 F, but it's possible? If so, I am not sure this stuff will hold up.
If your coolant is 300 or higher you have much bigger problems. You should be well below 250 at all times.
OK. I wasn't sure. I did some searches but couldn't really find that information. All I could find were the details of the aftermarket sensor I bought.
This is what we called gorilla snot in the auto parts biz. It's yellow and looks a lot like contact cement.
Allen Millyard builds all his siht with a hack saw and a file.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
To sum up thus thread.... OP had two concerns
1) filling a corroded spot in around a water jacket on the base gasket area of the case. Recommended to maintain sealing water jacket and preventing recurrence of the coolant leak. This could safely be done with low temp aluminum soldering or JB weld. Finishing with a flat file would be good enough to true up for the base gasket seal. Temp not an issue down there as jb goes to 450 intermittently, if the engine case or coolant got that hot it would be toasted.
2) gasketing and sealing the base. RtW to supplement the base gasket seal. Any RTV would eork, PERMATEX Grey or Blue (Hylomar U) are typical on motorcycles.
1) filling a corroded spot in around a water jacket on the base gasket area of the case. Recommended to maintain sealing water jacket and preventing recurrence of the coolant leak. This could safely be done with low temp aluminum soldering or JB weld. Finishing with a flat file would be good enough to true up for the base gasket seal. Temp not an issue down there as jb goes to 450 intermittently, if the engine case or coolant got that hot it would be toasted.
2) gasketing and sealing the base. RtW to supplement the base gasket seal. Any RTV would eork, PERMATEX Grey or Blue (Hylomar U) are typical on motorcycles.
boyoboy
Well-known member
Ive had a head welded b4 (rashed through cam cover and head) -and then it was machined flat at the (cam cover/head mating surface). worked out perfect. not sure of the welding method. I think welding and re surfacing is the way to go for a permanent sol'n.
best luck !
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best luck !
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