I would hazard a guess and say that the Samco Branded silicone hoses(not saying that's what you have but it is the most common "brand" name of silicone hoses) and the ebay "made in china" hoses come out of the same Chinese factory.
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Couple of questions about track gearing
- Thread starter Corsara
- Start date
I would hazard a guess and say that the Samco Branded silicone hoses(not saying that's what you have but it is the most common "brand" name of silicone hoses) and the ebay "made in china" hoses come out of the same Chinese factory.
Correct. Kerosene won't eat the seals. I've seen some debate on whether or not that is also true of WD-40, and also whether WD-40 can get behind the seals and clean out the grease as you suggest. But regardless of that potential issue, WD-40 is a pretty poor chain lube - approximately equivalent to brushing on a bit of light mineral oil. On a track bike it may not matter much (?) because you just don't accumulate that many total miles on the final drive. But WD-40 on a street bike chain will have the sprockets getting "shark-toothed" prematurely, especially aluminum ones. This I know from experience.
I don't totally understand the chemistry / physics / engineering...but I know it doesn't work very well!
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Just dropping in to say that I'm disappointed.. I got the package from MotoMummy today, everything is great as I ordered except the rear sprocket. Instead of the aluminium Driven sprocket, they've put the lightweight steel version in the package. Not that I care so much about the few ounces that it might be heavier than aluminium, but I really liked one comment in this thread earlier where the person would rather have the sprocket teeth to be the weakest point than the chain, so I wanted to go with aluminium in order to see more clearly when it's time to change.
Rant over.
EDIT: now I'm not sure about anything anymore, the front 16T steel sprocket is a bit heavier than the rear 45T supposedly lightweight steel sprocket. Does it mean it's aluminium then? Manufacturer's numbers are the same for the aluminium and steel...i feel like an idiot right now, maybe i am. But I still don't know what I have and not knowing will be driving me nuts as long as I'm using this sprocket.
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Yep, the magnet revealed it's aluminium. Also, I'm extremely embarrassed.
Thanks Brian.
When? On the gas? On corner entry? Mid corner?
Shaman
Well-known member
Mostly on exit to be honest, I know I was being a little greedy with the throttle. I feel like I'm losing some distance between myself and the rider ahead every time it came to turn 10 and 14. I was debating on going with another tooth in the back and see what happens but wanted to gain some perspective from other riders with similar machines.
Of course I could be completely ignorant in my thinking so I'm all ears.
Of course I could be completely ignorant in my thinking so I'm all ears.
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It sounds like you have a grip issue. Which could be fixed with a geometry, damping or spring change... or it could be a compound/pressure issue? Or it could be a throttle application issue? Could you possibly get on the gas earlier but with a slower roll on? It's hard to say for sure without getting a lot more info.
Going up another tooth in the rear will give you more acceleration once the bike is upright but it will also exacerbate the grip problem.
I know for sure my suspension is overdue for a rebuild. I procrastinated and when I was ready to do it I was getting a turnaround time of 3-6 weeks. So I'm just using what I have until I can take the bike to Accelerated Tech or Pro6. Unforunately, I lack the knowledge/experience when it comes suspension tuning so it's not something I'm willing to play around with. It could very well be that because it only happened as I started to go "faster."
God, I need help. :lol:
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What gear and how high in the gear are you off the back straight? What gear are you in out of the hairpin before the straight? Are there any corners you feel like your over revving? Also 24 off the warmers is slightly high from what I've been reccomended.
Coming out of the back straight I'm in 3rd. How high in the RPM range, I have no idea. I barely look down.
2nd gear going in and exiting the hair pin.
Not sure what you mean by "overreving" to be honest.
I was told 23 hot, but I remember somebody (forgot who) looked at my tire (read it?) and told me I should raise it by a single psi.
2nd onto the straight is good. Does it pull in second or is it bogging? 3rd for the corner off the back straight is ok but I meant at top speed what gear? Over revving would be almost or tapping the rev limiter.
Shaman
Well-known member
Be happy to help you out with your suspension settings as best I can, if I'm around. I put a lot of time into getting my 1000 up to race worthiness and it paid off, found grip and confidence to carry fourth gear in corner one (by adding some front preload). A little goes a long way and yes as you get faster, it's going to change. Corner 14 can be taken quite a bit quicker than most people think at first, the hairpin not as much, have seen quite a few low/highsides there and throwing away a race as well as fistfuls of money doesn't seem worth it for most racers, I'm still not sure I hit it properly after years of riding there; the 1000 line is different than the 600 there as well.
This is what bike development is all about... what works for you doesn't always work for someone else and vs. vs.
Some advice... Make changes you can feel. Two or three clicks, see how it works. 5mm preload or shim, see how it works. You can work back if it goes too far, but if the change is subtle, you probably won't understand the difference. Do one change at a time and test, unless there's something really obvious to improve. Test at least three laps but don't be afraid to come right back in and make a change. Pay attention to how the bike feels and how it changes direction. When you reach settings you're happy with, observe and possibly adjust your tires to finesse. They should look relatively uniform across the surface. Was appalled at how the tires were being shredded at Mosport on the weekend... was running better than AM lap times on that bike last year in some sessions and the tires looked perfect. Might have been the heat/overheating I suppose...
On Dunlops, I was using 22 or 23 PSI off the warmers. They quite often come up a pound if you're riding apace, so test them coming off the track immediately. That's why at times I use 22 rear. IIRC I was using 29-30 PSI front off the warmers, usually coming in around 31 PSI.
Pirellis are very different. 25 PSI off the warmer rear, 33 PSI off the warmer front is what I used in the AM 1000 race. The rear looked very uniform but very chewed up as it was a "SC1.2" compound, according to Mr. Gardiner.
This is what bike development is all about... what works for you doesn't always work for someone else and vs. vs.
Some advice... Make changes you can feel. Two or three clicks, see how it works. 5mm preload or shim, see how it works. You can work back if it goes too far, but if the change is subtle, you probably won't understand the difference. Do one change at a time and test, unless there's something really obvious to improve. Test at least three laps but don't be afraid to come right back in and make a change. Pay attention to how the bike feels and how it changes direction. When you reach settings you're happy with, observe and possibly adjust your tires to finesse. They should look relatively uniform across the surface. Was appalled at how the tires were being shredded at Mosport on the weekend... was running better than AM lap times on that bike last year in some sessions and the tires looked perfect. Might have been the heat/overheating I suppose...
On Dunlops, I was using 22 or 23 PSI off the warmers. They quite often come up a pound if you're riding apace, so test them coming off the track immediately. That's why at times I use 22 rear. IIRC I was using 29-30 PSI front off the warmers, usually coming in around 31 PSI.
Pirellis are very different. 25 PSI off the warmer rear, 33 PSI off the warmer front is what I used in the AM 1000 race. The rear looked very uniform but very chewed up as it was a "SC1.2" compound, according to Mr. Gardiner.
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I feel like it bogs down a bit, it pulls but not as much as I feel it should/could. My top speed is around 240 kmh indicated(-1/+2 no speedohealer) in 5th down the back straight. I haven't seen God yet but I flirted with 6th once or twice. Not sure if that answered your question, I'm still recovering from a heat exhaustion. Forgive me. Lol
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