Use a dewalt drill in low driving big fasteners and you will blow up the gearbox in short order. After exploding a bunch of yellow, I switched to red and haven't had a failure since.
|
|
|
Compound miter saw
- Thread starter Jampy00
- Start date
It reminds me of a rig that showed up at my grandparents farm just before winter. It was used to cut up firewood which was every scrap of burnable junk imaginable. Safety guards are for sissies.
18v and 20v are the same thing ("voltage") in cordless tools. 18v is the typical loaded voltage and 20v is the typical no load voltage so basically just marketing on the voltage. Goes back to the cells they use...
Now Dewalt did have 18v NiCd which was a different battery formfactor but you can get an adapter to run the modern lithium batteries in them. The newest tools may also be better tech (brushless motors, etc.).
Just don't tell your dad
Chris-CJ
Well-known member
Minor thread derail, apologies Jampy00.
I have a Rockwell 5A corded 4 1/2" circular saw, bought for occassional use.
Thing is that the arbor size is 3/8" (9.5 mm) and except for Rockwell, most after-market 4 1/2" circular saws have an arbor size of 5/8" or 7/8".
Is there an available adapter and is it safe to use?
Thanks!
I have a Rockwell 5A corded 4 1/2" circular saw, bought for occassional use.
Thing is that the arbor size is 3/8" (9.5 mm) and except for Rockwell, most after-market 4 1/2" circular saws have an arbor size of 5/8" or 7/8".
Is there an available adapter and is it safe to use?
Thanks!
If I ever need to make big cuts in anything I just take it to Home Depot or Lowe’s or whatever and pay for the cut on their commercial machines. It’s stupid cheap and saves me room in the garage. My mitre saw is just a crappy tire one right now. It does the job. If I ever get a new one it’ll be a sliding reasonably lightweight one on a mobile stand with wheels. Moving the pig around gets old very fast.
I should get a 12" mitre stand. It is a pain in the *** to move around and the legs I have for it don't have wheels.
You could print a spacer ring or probably buy one. Make sure spacer ring is thinner than blade so bolt pressure is applied to blade not spacer. I wouldn't be concerned about safety in that case. Hell, there are plastic hubcentric rings for vehicle wheels. The ring provides alignment when loose, the bolts take the load when tight.
Not 4.5" blades but I have bought other blades (6.5 and 7.25) that came with a spacer for smaller arbors.
A quick look at HD online and it appears my spot check outcome...either 3/8" or come with the spacer (in the 4.5" size). So you may be in luck. Lots are online only. At the same time some brands just like to try and force you to buy their consumables....
Doesn’t this effectively make a saw function as a track saw?
I've machined up adapters to use metric blades in my SAE table saw. 3D would be simpler but not my skill set.
Sort of but not really. A few major differences.
Kreg relies on existing edge. Any wobble or misalignment of that edge gets transferred.
Track saw can cut any angle/taper.
Track saw has a lip to minimize tearout.
Geometry of a Tracksaw is different with hinge at rear of shoe instead of front of shoe. That changes how plunge works.
Blade tooth geometry of a tracksaw is different.
Metabo is the rebrand of Hitachi . Been around forever , they just decided to make them all one brand .
I have a metal cutting skill saw , hypoid drive , you need to change from ferrous to non ferocious blades but it will eat a 3/8 steel plate like plywood
@Chris , you can just use a flat washer that measures on outside diameter and drill it 3/8 in the bore , spacers are just disposable metal. @mimico , that Kreg jig will make your saw follow a track , but an actual track saw has a zero clearance gasket beside the blade so there is no chipping and alignment is dead easy .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
I have a metal cutting skill saw , hypoid drive , you need to change from ferrous to non ferocious blades but it will eat a 3/8 steel plate like plywood
@Chris , you can just use a flat washer that measures on outside diameter and drill it 3/8 in the bore , spacers are just disposable metal. @mimico , that Kreg jig will make your saw follow a track , but an actual track saw has a zero clearance gasket beside the blade so there is no chipping and alignment is dead easy .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I started buying Milwaukee when my kid became a dealer. I’m sold, I hand down my Rigid and dewalt stuff to the kids.
That's the one that can work very well initially but doesn't hold up with time. Cool mechanism though.I want this Bosch mitre saw. You can rest it against a wall because it doesn't have the sliders like most other mitre saws do
Festool kapex is similar to this. If anyone is considering a kapex, watch the AvE teardown video first. Some ugly truths hiding under the Tupperware.Makita has a different design
A machined spacer would be preferable but harder for most to make.
Chris-CJ
Well-known member
Any suggestion as to where I can go to place an order?
HD doesn't have them and the Sales Associate seemed clueless, have not seen them on Amazon .
Thanks
If you give me accurate dimensions, I can print some up for you. Paying to have them machined will cost more than the saw. If you get lucky, a friendly person with a lathe could bang out a spacer out in little time.
The poverty solution that may work is a washer with the proper OD and use a step drill to hit the proper ID.
|
|
|
|
|