Fair enough. Timing/valve lash differences can change the sound as well. I suspect that is where his issues lie.He never said they were, so we don't know. He did say they sounded different, so I assumed different exhaust systems.
Fair enough. Timing/valve lash differences can change the sound as well. I suspect that is where his issues lie.He never said they were, so we don't know. He did say they sounded different, so I assumed different exhaust systems.
Great information, thanks!Obvious first step is to check that things are within specifications - valve clearances being the first prime suspect, condition of spark plugs the second, float levels and idle-mixture-screw adjustments the next, and make sure the carburetors don't have any clogged jets, particularly the slow / pilot jets. Also make sure it hasn't got vacuum leaks (if you spray WD40 at the rubber boots between carbs and engine and "something changes" then you've got a leak). If it has a vacuum-operated fuel petcock valve, make sure that isn't leaking. ASSuming all that is OK ...
The symptoms that you describe are those of lean carburetion off the bottom. Bear in mind that the carburetion on your bike was probably set up based on non-ethanol fuel, and that is no longer available. 10% ethanol acts like 3% leaner jetting, and if it was on the bleeding edge but barely OK before, it may be just short of the bleeding edge now. This could be why you have a bike that used to run OK but now doesn't.
"things that are wrong" that can cause this: Vacuum leak, clogged slow jets, clogged idle mixture adjustment screw and passages, float level set too low.
"things that the manufacturer set up for emissions" that can cause this: Idle mixture adjustments set too lean, slow jet too lean, needle position on the vacuum slide set too far down (lean).
I gather that your situation involves hard cold starting and then it starts and runs OK after it's warmed up, and that points to idle mixture adjustment and slow jets. If it runs OK during warm-up with the choke on a little smidge, and pulls away from a stop decently when it's like this, that would point to the needle being in the ballpark. If it refuses to accept throttle with the choke on just enough to keep it idling, the needle is probably too lean.
So, the first step after ruling out "things that are wrong", is to establish what the idle mixture screws are supposed to be set to, and find out where they are set to now. If wrong, make them correct. If correct, turn them out half a turn further, and see if that makes a difference.
Fuel for idle flows through the pilot jets, and the idle mixture screws make less and less of a difference as you turn them out (and less and less difference as you open the throttle), so if this did not solve the problem, the next step is to find out what pilot jets are in there, first verify that they are not clogged and are the size as per original specifications, and then obtain some that are one size bigger. (Winners Circle in Toronto should be able to get them)
Ok. Vacuum is generated in the carbs by them restricting the air flow (piston moves down but can't fill the cylinder with ambient pressure air as airflow is restricted by carb). Anywhere between the throttle (slide/butterfly/choke plate) and the intake valve could have a leak that allows air in without the required extra fuel being added. In practice, leaks are normally around the rubber boots or an open vacuum port or cracked vacuum hose.So, I'm trying to remember where vacuum comes from. Where does it start, and does it run through the carb, or does it come from the carbs?
About the jets, I'm told by the previous owner of this bike that the jets were replaced with the GSXR jets. The GSXR was fuel injected by this time, so I can't say if he was feeding my a lie, or if the last carbureted GSXR had compatible jets, or maybe it was an aftermarket equivalent. Is there a way to measure the jets?
No, I started to swap the exhaust, but it wasn't plug and play. I would have to have trimmed the pipe and decided not to.You swapped the carbs but not the exhaust?
If the exhaust on the happy bike is partially plugged, that would richen the mixture and change how the bike runs. Possible but not likely imo.No, I started to swap the exhaust, but it wasn't plug and play. I would have to have trimmed the pipe and decided not to.
You think the exhaust could cause this issue?
Is this thing just "cold bloded" and needs a good warm up? I don't think it would be the first.But this only lasts for about 500m. Usually by the time I get to the end of my street and turn onto the main road it's cleared up and running good.
Ah ok, so they are different. May make a difference. I'd be surprised if two aftermarket exhausts made that much difference off idle when cold. The bigger difference should come at high throttle and high rpm.My 03 has Hindle exhaust. The 01 had a chrome exhaust of an unknown aftermarket make. The decal peeled off.
I think we can rule that out since one bike runs great in the winter and the other doesn't. If that was the case, neither would run great.Is this thing just "cold bloded" and needs a good warm up? I don't think it would be the first.
Loud iirc. Used to be popular. That one looks long enough that it may be a reasonable volume.I found a photo from the day I bought it. This is the exhaust on the 01. Anyone familiar with D & D?
D&D exhausts were made in Texas - long since defunct. Good stuff back in the day, but loud.I found a photo from the day I bought it. This is the exhaust on the 01. Anyone familiar with D & D?
I bought the 03 in 2008, and it had the Hindle on it when I bought it.How old is the Hindle exhaust?
The older ones were 4 into 1 and the later ones are 4 into 2 into 1, which will make a huge difference in midrange tuning.
D&D was el cheapo exhaust, on par with Two Brothers. LOUD and not very well constructed
Look at the collectors. Easy to see 4-1 vs 4-2-1.I bought the 03 in 2008, and it had the Hindle on it when I bought it.
Collectors?Look at the collectors. Easy to see 4-1 vs 4-2-1.