Heated gear in general is a game changer. Everything else is just a stop gap solution.
You know, the total cost of Bark Busters, heated grips and regular winter gloves is not too far off the cost of proper heated gloves and a basic 3 mode switch
Slide them down into the gloves so that they are on-top of your knuckles.I looked into them last season. I bought a few to try, and the heat doesn't reach the backs of the fingers where the wind contacts the gloves, and since they don't have an off switch, the heat is down to a slight warmth after an 8 hour shift, so I could be using 2 per day if the afternoons are cold, too.
I have those on my winter bike. The problem is, it's in pieces at the moment. My garage isn't heated so I've been working on heating it.You know, the total cost of Bark Busters, heated grips and regular winter gloves is not too far off the cost of proper heated gloves and a basic 3 mode switch
You're exactly right. I'm often surprised at prices these days, and that's doubled with motorcycle gear.Slide them down into the gloves so that they are on-top of your knuckles.
After a few decades you'll find that nothing is cheap or free in the world of 2 wheels.
That's fun. I've had a similar crap situation where a propane torch decided to light between the torch head and bottle.My propane heater after the leak ignited...
I have those on my winter bike. The problem is, it's in pieces at the moment. My garage isn't heated so I've been working on heating it.
I picked up an electric heater from Princess Auto, hung it from the ceiling, then found out that that guy that I bought my house from 4 years ago lied about the garage having 100 amp service. I checked the breaker and wiring coming from the house, it's 30 amp. Unfortunately I don't have $2000 to run the gauge wire needed to upgrade to 100 amp.
I picked up a used propane heater. It was pretty beat up, but the guy started it up and ran it for 20 minutes in the driveway while we talked and it worked good. I took the casing apart to clean up all the dust, dead bugs and cobwebs inside it, and decided to scuff up the rust and put a coat of paint on it. This might have saved my life because as I was putting it back together, I started it up with the cover off. It run for about 30 seconds then POOFF! A small ball of flame was shooting from the controller, from under the Hi-Lo knob. Apparently the seals leak. With the cover off, the gas reaches the lit flame and ignites. If I had it running in my little garage with the cover on, I don't know how much gas would leak out before it ignited. And in the several full jerry cans stored in the garage, it could have been really bad.
I think this garage has been curse to never have proper heat. lol
So now, I've only got an electric heater on the wall, and a 30 amp construction heater that blows the breaker if anything else is turned on, and I've been procrastinating all winter because I don't want to work in a cold garage with cold metal tools.
It's a long way away, unfortunately. I'm gonna start setting money aside to upgrade it. I priced it at close to $2000 for the wire. If the government were to let us keep more of our hard-earned money, I'd like to take down this garage and build three bays across the back of my yard. I like to dream...How far is your main panel from the garage?
The logical solution is bike repair happens in the living room to save money.It's a long way away, unfortunately. I'm gonna start setting money aside to upgrade it. I priced it at close to $2000 for the wire. If the government were to let us keep more of our hard-earned money, I'd like to take down this garage and build three bays across the back of my yard. I like to dream...
That's a lot of water! Wow.That's fun. I've had a similar crap situation where a propane torch decided to light between the torch head and bottle.
Fwiw, I highly dislike burning fuel inside a sealed garage. It produces tons of water (about 5 gallons of water released for every 20 lb tank burned). Also potentially CO or oxygen deprivation issues if you get really unlucky.
For your electrical issues, it's worth looking into what is actually happening. If you are running a 30A heater on a 30A breaker and turn on something else (say an air compressor pulling 15A), it should still take more than a minute to blow (before which point the compressor should have been done cycling and the breaker never blows).
I'll let my wife know you said it was okay. Hahaha!The logical solution is bike repair happens in the living room to save money.
So you were pulling ~45A constant and then added another 15A. That should blow in less than one minute. Personally, I would flick the heater off during compressor heavy times.That's a lot of water! Wow.
I have an 8 inch exhaust fan now, but I've also just picked up a 16" exhaust fan. I'll be installing that soon.
The breaker doesn't pop immediately, but for example, I was in the garage with my 9 year old last weekend refinishing an axe handle. We had the construction heater and the wall heater (one of those radiator-type elements), and it was okay for 30 minutes. Then we started using an air-powered palm sander. About a minute or two after the compressor kicked on the lights went out. It's a long walk to the back of the basement to turn the breaker back on. lol Especially when the front half where the box is has a clearance of 5 feet while I'm over over 6 feet.
It's a long way away, unfortunately. I'm gonna start setting money aside to upgrade it. I priced it at close to $2000 for the wire. If the government were to let us keep more of our hard-earned money, I'd like to take down this garage and build three bays across the back of my yard. I like to dream...
My compressor is a 240v 60 gallon Husky. That sounds really cheap for copper wire.Is your compressor 110v, and how far from the closest external receptacle of the house is it? A 100' 12/3 extension cord should be around $50 from Costco. Just to get you by for now.
I'm not saying it's a good idea but if you have outdoor circuits on both legs, you can make an adaptor that plugs into two 120V extension cords and gives you 240V/15A. I don't know if it is even a code violation as it is a temporary use item. The potential downside is you could blow one leg and have the other still hot.My compressor is a 240v 60 gallon Husky. That sounds really cheap for copper wire.
I would need about 150' of 2 awg to reach from box-to-box. Apparently you can have a junction, it must be one continuous piece.
So, connect both hot and both neutral to the same outlet, and that would draw power from both legs to spread the load?I'm not saying it's a good idea but if you have outdoor circuits on both legs, you can make an adaptor that plugs into two 120V extension cords and gives you 240V/15A. I don't know if it is even a code violation as it is a temporary use item. The potential downside is you could blow one leg and have the other still hot.