Clutch adjustment woes....

sburns

sburns

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Well so back in my "just did my first oil change" thread someone mentioned doing the clutch adjustment at the same time (@FLSTC ;)), which was good advice and got me thinking about it.

I had my second change come up so I thought I should look into doing this. I think I opened a can of worms now..

Did the adjustment according to the research I found online, but now it's not like how it was before. The engagement is further out from the grip then I like it. I've tried to tighten the adjustment screw back in, but it feels like adjustment screw is much tighter then it should be. The directions state to turn the adjustment screw until it just starts to resist, then back off. I am well past resistance and then some. I feel the next adjustment is more like cranking it down. Somehow HD was able to set it (or maybe they fudged it)

I do not believe I am doing this wrong, but could this be a sign of worn clutch cable, or something.

I may just try and tighten it a bit more, just to see, but I have been in there a few times and it is driving me nuts.

Thoughts GTMA!
 
if only this site had like a dedicated section where people could post up questions about mechanical issues they are having and other members can answer and give advice, that would have been AWESOME, we could even name it something like "mechanical issue question and answer section" or maybe something more clever.
 
"Did the adjustment according to the research I found online, but now it's not like how it was before. The engagement is further out from the grip then I like it. I've tried to tighten the adjustment screw back in, but it feels like adjustment screw is much tighter then it should be. The directions state to turn the adjustment screw until it just starts to resist, then back off. I am well past resistance and then some."

Maybe it was wrong before and now its right ? Set it like the factory tells you, take it for a ride and then decide.
​
 
I adjust my clutch adjustment screw 1/2 turn out from touching. Spec is 1/2 to full turn out - this moves the engagement point from closer or further from the handlebar. 1/2 turn works for me. Took me a couple of times to figure this out.

Couple of points - bike has to be stone cold before doing this, lever adjustment loosened for slack and cable adjuster loosened for slack.

If you rode the bike to test, then it probably heated up and you'll need to let it cool to change your setting.
 
The biting point is a preference thing for sure. My team mate liked the clutch to bite immediately where I’m the complete opposite.

+1 for doing the adjustment when the engine is cold.
 
Hint: Before making adjustments, take an erasable marker or equivalent and mark where your adjuster screw is set. That way, you can always get back to your original settings.

Make sure you loosen the cable at the clutch lever first.

Next move to the clutch adjustment screw and make the adjustment according to factory specs. If there’s a lock nut, make sure the adjuster screw does not move when tightening the nut.

Then go up to the handlebars and tighten up the clutch cable leaving the correct amount of free play.

If it’s still not right, make micro adjustments at the clutch lever.

If you still can’t get it right, then lather...rinse...repeat, starting with loosening the cable at the clutch lever.

I don’t generally adjust my clutch cable unless it stops feeling good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
TK4 said:
"Did the adjustment according to the research I found online, but now it's not like how it was before. The engagement is further out from the grip then I like it. I've tried to tighten the adjustment screw back in, but it feels like adjustment screw is much tighter then it should be. The directions state to turn the adjustment screw until it just starts to resist, then back off. I am well past resistance and then some."

Maybe it was wrong before and now its right ? Set it like the factory tells you, take it for a ride and then decide.
​
Click to expand...

I was wondering about this very thing, and if the HD dealer did something to fudge it. I just came back in from a ride. I feel it is too far out engage, hand fully stretched from grip and the fritche zone is too far out for lack of better words. Yes I could be to used to how it was before, but this feels way stranger. I am also worried the clutch my not be fully disengaged, dragging?
 
FLSTC said:
I adjust my clutch adjustment screw 1/2 turn out from touching. Spec is 1/2 to full turn out - this moves the engagement point from closer or further from the handlebar. 1/2 turn works for me. Took me a couple of times to figure this out.

Couple of points - bike has to be stone cold before doing this, lever adjustment loosened for slack and cable adjuster loosened for slack.

If you rode the bike to test, then it probably heated up and you'll need to let it cool to change your setting.
Click to expand...

Maybe I am not understanding what the "touching" should feel like. I am at the point where the adjustment screw is a 1/2 turn before it really starts to stop/bind. But maybe that is real touching point.

I'll have to let it cool down and try again later tonight. I have been adjusting, doing a small ride around the block, and repeat.
 
mbroyda said:
if only this site had like a dedicated section where people could post up questions about mechanical issues they are having and other members can answer and give advice, that would have been AWESOME, we could even name it something like "mechanical issue question and answer section" or maybe something more clever.
Click to expand...

You some wannabe moderator??
 
Robbo said:
Hint: Before making adjustments, take an erasable marker or equivalent and mark where your adjuster screw is set. That way, you can always get back to your original settings.

Make sure you loosen the cable at the clutch lever first.

Next move to the clutch adjustment screw and make the adjustment according to factory specs. If there’s a lock nut, make sure the adjuster screw does not move when tightening the nut.

Then go up to the handlebars and tighten up the clutch cable leaving the correct amount of free play.

If it’s still not right, make micro adjustments at the clutch lever.

If you still can’t get it right, then lather...rinse...repeat, starting with loosening the cable at the clutch lever.

I don’t generally adjust my clutch cable unless it stops feeling good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Thanks will do, monkeying around with this is taking away from tagging !! :lmao:
 
sburns said:
I am also worried the clutch my not be fully disengaged, dragging?
Click to expand...

It's easy to feel if you are way out of adjustment one way or the other. If the bike is pushing you forward, it's not disengaging properly. If you whack the throttle open and the revs jump and the bike doesn't speed up, it's not engaging properly.
 
From the HD Forum...

Turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time the clutch lever should have very little play.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
you Could upgrade your levers to one that is position adjustable or bend up a custom set.
 
This seems way too complicated. It's a freakin' clutch cable with 2 barrel adjusters, right? How is that so hard to figure out lol. And TBH you WANT the engagement point to be at the very start of the lever pull, no need to pull the lever all the way in everytime, just a quick squeeze and shift and go. Anyone who has ever owned a bicycle should know how to adjust any pull cable, its pretty basic. Not being rude, it just seems like everyone is way overthinking this. "Fix your hd" videos are always hilarious it seems like they are explaining it to a child.
 
JP0160 said:
This seems way too complicated. It's a freakin' clutch cable with 2 barrel adjusters, right? How is that so hard to figure out lol. And TBH you WANT the engagement point to be at the very start of the lever pull, no need to pull the lever all the way in everytime, just a quick squeeze and shift and go. Anyone who has ever owned a bicycle should know how to adjust any pull cable, its pretty basic. Not being rude, it just seems like everyone is way overthinking this. "Fix your hd" videos are always hilarious it seems like they are explaining it to a child.
Click to expand...

I am not adjusting the slack in the cable. But the clutch itself and the position of the fiction zone on the grip. It seems the position of engagement and disengagement is a personal preference. I prefer the bite to be quicker or closer to the grip as I am releasing, rather then the other way around.

I'll get it done, just need to tinker a little more. First time doing this so partly newbie experience on my part.

Hey HD guys are kids at heart right ;)
 
Yep personal preference. I like my disengagement as far from the grip as possible. Less lever distance to pull and when pulled in past half way it's definitely disengaged. I use 2 fingers on the clutch and this way it's not needing to pinch the other 2 when pulled in. Setting the lower adjustment properly allows me to set the upper to this.
 
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Riceburner said:
Yep personal preference. I like my disengagement as far from the grip as possible. Less lever distance to pull and when pulled in past half way it's definitely disengaged. I use 2 fingers on the clutch and this way it's not needing to pinch the other 2 when pulled in. Setting the lower adjustment properly allows me to set the upper to this.
Click to expand...


So you adjusted a nut and a slotted screw on the clutch cover?


And stating what year and type of bike on the forum would also help.
 
sburns said:
Maybe I am not understanding what the "touching" should feel like. I am at the point where the adjustment screw is a 1/2 turn before it really starts to stop/bind. But maybe that is real touching point.

I'll have to let it cool down and try again later tonight. I have been adjusting, doing a small ride around the block, and repeat.
Click to expand...

gotta let it cool. Most likely overnight...

Touch point = you’ll feel the screw start to push the clutch in
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