Classic / Muscle Cars - Do's and Dont's? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Classic / Muscle Cars - Do's and Dont's?

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Mina

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Picked up a 1969 Chevelle the other day, it's a true SS396 that was last restored in 2002. Overall mechanically and cosmetically, the car is in excellent shape.

However, I plan on keeping the car for the next little while, maybe months or years, haven't decided yet. It won't be a daily driver but it'll still get driven and hopefully often.

I'm okay with the stock speedometer, the previous owner installed a couple of aftermarket gages [RPM, Water, Temp, etc.] but I am not okay with the bucket seats and seat belts. The car is not 100% original by any means but it's not molested either. I want to modify it in a way that may increase or maintain its value rather than the opposite.

The car also has an AM radio that doesn't work. The exhaust note is incredible but I need some music, how are aftermarket decks/speakers viewed on a car like that?

At the end of the day, I'm enjoying it, but just want to make it a little more driver-friendly.
 

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I’m no expert but anything that takes away from original pulls the price down. These cars are wanted for their originality.

beautiful car.
 
A popular mod that doesn’t take away from the value is either an overdrive automatic transmission or 5 speed manual. It lets you enjoy the low gear ratios that many muscle cars have and still be able to cruise at highway speeds. Just hang on to the original components ( if they are original) when you go to sell.
 
For music, I would just use a bluetooth speaker. I expect that you could buy a plug and play radio that worked but it will cost much much more. I strongly dislike the look of modern radios dropped in classic cars.

What dont you like about the current seats/seatbelts? If you switched to modern racing seats, I think that may make for a harder sale but it is simple enough to include pictures of both and tell buyers it will come with the seats they prefer. A seat swap should be simple.

Congrats, beautiful car.
 
First, nice car...

Any modifications you do should be 100% reversible. If this is a true SS396, even more so if numbers matched (and not a clone) the value here is as much originality as possible, any mods will all decrease value full stop. If they are fully reversible no harm no foul as long as you keep the removed items.

Do not cut the dash, and really do not cut the dash to fit a modern radio. There are companies selling modern equipment that will fit the current dash openings. Or as GG noted, just leave the old one and go hidden bluetooth or just under-dash modern (NOT CUTTING).

For seats, you can upgrade but it may not be all that simple. Car floor pans are different from model to model (actually to be more accurate platform to platform) so some fabrication of the seat rails may be required to get new modern or any seats to sit correctly. It is not rocket surgery (I have done it many times) but it requires some fab skills and tools. I am sure there are interior guys in the GTA that can do this for you if needed or maybe seats designed for this specific A-body floor pan ($$$$). If the current seats are stock, properly store them (not in a shed or garage full of mice!) and do not mod the existing seat rails. Or you may find seats that will sit properly on the current rails, again no cutting the rails...

A transmission mod or upgrade will absolutely decrease the value of a true SS396, again it may be reversible so same as above BUT.... Most are not 100% bolt-in and will require modifications as the stock TH400 slushbox (I doubt it was a TH350, not that it matters) is a different length than most of the OD options and the cross member may not be in the same location. Manual conversion may also require floor mods for the pedals and shifter (even if it is currently manual). Auto OD will change the shifter, more possible cutting but there are options.... For five speed manual it needs to be aftermarket and not a generic T5 as it will last only until you put your foot into it (can't handle the torque). T56 will be OK (used in older Vettes, Vipers, Aston Martin, Z28s) and if you get one specifically from a LT1 Z28 Camaro (fourth gen, getting hard to find BTW) it can use an aftermarket two-piece crank flywheel and bolt right up to the BB motor, or just get an aftermarket version....

As a driver the stock transmission will suck, but again original is the collector value not modded.

The advantage of a clone (plain jane lower model car that has been upgraded to the specs of the desired car) is that you can mod away and it will not hurt (or really help) value as it is already a Frankenstein. Chop, cut, whatever you want.

The motor will be flat tappet if original or to original specs. Modern oil will destroy the lifters over time. You will need to add the "zinc additive" or get oil that contains it (designed for classic cars).
 
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@GreyGhost - Great idea on the Bluetooth speaker, never even crossed my mind, that might just do it.

@backmarkerducati - Great insight, thanks! The car is an original SS 396 but as I mentioned before, it's not all original, this isn't a $100K car by any means. Lol... It has a new ZZ502 crate motor and a T400 transmission with an electronic overdrive. I'm not sure if it's a good thing or not but everyone seems to give positive feedback.

I really want to do something about the seats, something a little more modern with some degree of adjustability would be pretty sweet.
 
IMO considering it isn't original do whatever you think makes the car more useable. That market doesn't mind restomod cars at all. If a stereo and newer bucket seats makes the car more enjoyable for you to drive around the next person is probably going to think the same thing. Want it to handle and stop better? Throw a hotchkis suspension kit and some big brakes on it. Like you said it isn't original so it's always going to be a driver (which I would prefer) so as long as you make it work better go for it.
 
blackcamaro said:
IMO considering it isn't original do whatever you think makes the car more useable. That market doesn't mind restomod cars at all. If a stereo and newer bucket seats makes the car more enjoyable for you to drive around the next person is probably going to think the same thing. Want it to handle and stop better? Throw a hotchkis suspension kit and some big brakes on it. Like you said it isn't original so it's always going to be a driver (which I would prefer) so as long as you make it work better go for it.
Click to expand...

I need to go through the pile of paperwork I got with it to see what parts are on it because honestly, this is all new for me, and I bought it on a whim. I do agree with you though and that's sort of the direction I wanted to take it in but maybe more research is needed.
 
blackcamaro said:
IMO considering it isn't original do whatever you think makes the car more useable. That market doesn't mind restomod cars at all. If a stereo and newer bucket seats makes the car more enjoyable for you to drive around the next person is probably going to think the same thing. Want it to handle and stop better? Throw a hotchkis suspension kit and some big brakes on it. Like you said it isn't original so it's always going to be a driver (which I would prefer) so as long as you make it work better go for it.
Click to expand...

I restored and owned a certain, very desirable body style 60's Ford for over 20 years but it was not original. Agree with blackcamaro. Yours is already well past any sort of concourse correct piece. There's no point keeping inferior/uncomfortable 50 year old technology at this point. Make it something you actually enjoy.
 
Have you done a VIN check etc. to see if it is actually a SS396 from the factory and what options it came with? For some specific in demand models there are more on the road now than the automaker actually made back in the day! Not the "provided" documentation but an actual full check.

The less original it is now the less you need to worry about keeping it original value wise. For any decent "restored" driver, with very few exceptions, any mods you make will not increase the value of the vehicle, at least not as much as they cost you to do. That is how the market works for these things. Your choice in mods may also not be a buyer's choice. If it has already been molested it does not matter as much (or it is actually not what it appears), mod away to make it how you want if you are going to keep it for few years or more. If it is a....bought it for a good price, keep it for a few months, and then flip it keeping it as is will likely be the best ROI (maybe just deal with the radio...).

If it is that crate motor it should have a roller cam, if so ZDDP may not be needed (oil).
 
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... and IF you actually plan on driving the thing I STRONGLY suggest you do something with the front suspension and brakes... those 9" rotors suck LARGE.
On my "G" body I installed 12" rotors with metric calipers, moved the upper control arm mount and ball joint inboard about 1 1/2" (no more bump steer), 1 1/4" sway bar with custom hold down kits and urethane bushes (all GM parts except the bushes) and 17" wheels.
Drives/handles like a modern car, and more importantly, the thing actually stops.

Wildwood makes a 11" rotor, 4 pot caliper kit for that car.

Does the thing still have a RPO sticker? I think in '69 it was on the inside of the trunk lid.
Looks like this
RPO_sticker192408.jpg
That is a list of installed options. It will describe everything that is installed that isn't on the base model.
That's my '84 G body Cutlass Supreme BROUHAM... with F41 suspension... same as a Grand National or a Monte SS
 
bitzz said:
... and IF you actually plan on driving the thing I STRONGLY suggest you do something with the front suspension and brakes... those 9" rotors suck LARGE.
On my "G" body I installed 12" rotors with metric calipers, moved the upper control arm mount and ball joint inboard about 1 1/2" (no more bump steer), 1 1/4" sway bar with custom hold down kits and urethane bushes (all GM parts except the bushes) and 17" wheels.
Drives/handles like a modern car, and more importantly, the thing actually stops.

Wildwood makes a 11" rotor, 4 pot caliper kit for that car.

Does the thing still have a RPO sticker? I think in '69 it was on the inside of the trunk lid.
Looks like this
View attachment 48744
That is a list of installed options. It will describe everything that is installed that isn't on the base model.
That's my '84 G body Cutlass Supreme BROUHAM... with F41 suspension... same as a Grand National or a Monte SS
Click to expand...
Made in Canada.... (WMI on the VIN)
 
backmarkerducati said:
Have you done a VIN check etc. to see if it is actually a SS396 from the factory and what options it came with? For some specific in demand models there are more on the road now than the automaker actually made back in the day! Not the "provided" documentation but an actual full check.

The less original it is now the less you need to worry about keeping it original value wise. For any decent "restored" driver, with very few exceptions, any mods you make will not increase the value of the vehicle, at least not as much as they cost you to do. That is how the market works for these things. Your choice in mods may also not be a buyer's choice. If it has already been molested it does not matter as much (or it is actually not what it appears), mod away to make it how you want if you are going to keep it for few years or more. If it is a....bought it for a good price, keep it for a few months, and then flip it keeping it as is will likely be the best ROI (maybe just deal with the radio...).

If it is that crate motor it should have a roller cam, if so ZDDP may not be needed (oil).
Click to expand...
^^^This.
You can change the seats easily enough without making any physical changes that can't be returned to original.
Stereo - can use the old/modern unit posted already or get a bluetooth connector and plug it into an amp/speaker setup you can install in factory speaker openings.
 
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