Check your nuts!

Fuzzbuster

Fuzzbuster

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IMG_8747.jpegRemember to check your front sprocket nut every once in a while. Most will have a cover over the front sprocket, you need to open this up every once in a while to clean it out and to make sure the nut and lock washer are secure. On most of the older bikes I have purchased inside the cover is a complete mess even if the bike is somewhat clean. In the photo you can see that the nut has rotated slightly and the bent portion of the lock washer is no longer sitting directly flat against the nut like it is supposed to be. Yes it was torqued and has a new nut and washer but has still come loose! Fortunately, I modified my sprocket cover (magnesium 🔥) so that it is an open configuration and I am able to see what is going on inside there!
 
ToSlow said:
Hammering with an impact gun could break some internal parts so Ive been told, but hey do as you please 👍
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Not just that, but you never know what torque you're getting from an impact gun. Too loose is obviously bad, but too tight can also be. There's an SXV owner on ApriliaForum whose flywheel kept going out of time. He swore up and down that he torqued it properly to spec, until the 3rd time he admitted to using an impact and then kept arguing about how the impact should have been good enough and how as a helicopter tech, he wasn't your "average Joe". Problem solved as soon as he used a torque wrench.

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I am going to try a different torque wrench and see if it happens again. My test ride last night was my first real time in the higher rpm's because I just fixed a small leak I had at the pushrod seal. I decided to do all the seals and clutch pushrod while the tranny cover was removed. I was accelerating a bit more than I wanted for a test ride because I got excited and was trying to keep up with some full out racer guy on my regular route! I could not see him after the 2nd lap! 🚀
 
Relax said:
Not just that, but you never know what torque you're getting from an impact gun. Too loose is obviously bad, but too tight can also be. There's an SXV owner on ApriliaForum whose flywheel kept going out of time. He swore up and down that he torqued it properly to spec, until the 3rd time he admitted to using an impact and then kept arguing about how the impact should have been good enough and how as a helicopter tech, he wasn't your "average Joe". Problem solved as soon as he used a torque wrench.
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I don't want him working on any helicopter I'd have to ride in.
 
Fuzzbuster said:
I am going to try a different torque wrench and see if it happens again. My test ride last night was my first real time in the higher rpm's because I just fixed a small leak I had at the pushrod seal. I decided to do all the seals and clutch pushrod while the tranny cover was removed. I was accelerating a bit more than I wanted for a test ride because I got excited and was trying to keep up with some full out racer guy on my regular route! I could not see him after the 2nd lap! 🚀
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You should also check whether the torque spec is dry or greased, as greased results in much more transmitted torque than the setting on your wrench. Also make sure the threads of the nut and shaft are clean and rust-free.
 
Relax said:
You should also check whether the torque spec is dry or greased, as greased results in much more transmitted torque than the setting on your wrench. Also make sure the threads of the nut and shaft are clean and rust-free.
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Does not specify dry or greasy? I referenced multiple manuals. Nut is new and no rust on shaft.
 
On some critical bolts like brake caliper mount i like to do the factory thing and dot the bolt at the 12:00 position with a white paint stick.
Makes for a quick visual check and if they are torqued to spec i can return them close to spec on the road if necessary without a torque wrench.
 
Dirty Frank said:
On some critical bolts like brake caliper mount i like to do the factory thing and dot the bolt at the 12:00 position with a white paint stick.
Makes for a quick visual check and if they are torqued to spec i can return them close to spec on the road if necessary without a torque wrench.
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I like this idea!
 
I decided to re-torque the existing nut just to see how much it would move and it only moved slightly. I bent the lock washer over the nut even more and went for a decent test ride. I don't see any movement at this time. No clue what caused the initial movement? The pushrod seal replacement worked like a charm and there are no leaks! I was putting that repair off for some time while waiting for the seals, I would caution anyone that is not a good idea. When I removed the clutch slave it was filled with engine oil, clearly not a good thing!
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