Chain and Sprockets Change | GTAMotorcycle.com

Chain and Sprockets Change

jemlinus

Well-known member
I got my chain and sprockets changed today at the local shop and I supplied the parts.

How long does it normally take to shop to do this? I've done this before and 3 hours for the job is longer than how long I took.

I'm not complaining about the charges, but I thought I ask how long for you guys to do this?
 
I assume most bike shops are like auto repairs and flat rate the jobs. Three hours for chain and sprockets seems excessive but I have no idea what the book time is.
 
That seems a little on the long side. I would change a chain and 2 sprockets on any most bikes in about 1 hr as long as it was a spec length chain. I did have a quote once from SpeedWorx for a chain only (while certifying the bike), they wanted 1.5 hrs for just the chain, so I'm guessing it's a 'book rate' you were charged.

I do have a couple of bikes with enclosed chains - they take about 3 hrs.
 
I got my chain and sprockets changed today at the local shop and I supplied the parts.

How long does it normally take to shop to do this? I've done this before and 3 hours for the job is longer than how long I took.

I'm not complaining about the charges, but I thought I ask how long for you guys to do this?
When you supply the parts, shops may be inclined to max out the labour charges as they typically have a markup on parts.
 
They may have taken extra time and care to re & re the 4 into 4 exhaust.


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They may have taken extra time and care to re & re the 4 into 4 exhaust.


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You have to pull the exhaust to change the chain and sprockets? That would be a pain in the ass.
 
What bike are we talking about here ... It makes a difference. The last couple of posts allude to it.

Sometimes it's an easy job, because the rear wheel comes off directly, and the cover over the countershaft sprocket comes off directly without having to do any other disassembly. Half-hour job. Maybe an hour if you allow for someone filling out the paperwork for the job (someone ... you ... still has to pay for that).

And sometimes ... it turns into a son-of-a-gun because in order to get the axle out, you have to take the exhaust off, and in order to take the exhaust off, you have to take some other big piece off because it's in the way. If it's a touring bike, sometimes the luggage has to come off to get the axle out to get the wheel off.

I know it's not specifically relevant to this case because a Gold Wing doesn't have a final-drive chain and sprockets ... but it is notoriously hard to change the rear tire on those, because of the amount of crap that's in the way of getting it out of the bike. No access from either side or the front or the back. Some motorcycle lifts have a trap-door specifically for rear wheel removal on those bikes (so that you can drop it straight out the bottom with the whole bike raised up on the lift).
 
You have to pull the exhaust to change the chain and sprockets? That would be a pain in the ass.

I would assume so on a CB750 Four. Don’t believe you could slide the rear axle out without at least removing some of the exhaust system. Not something you want to play with...replacements are huge $$$.


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Depends on the bike. How many fairings and parts did they have to remove to access the countershaft sprocket? Was there a special tool to remove the rear wheel? Did someone make a hash of the previous job and cross thread something? A dirt bike where there isn't even a sprocket cover vs a super sport thats all buttoned up.
 
You have to pull the exhaust to change the chain and sprockets? That would be a pain in the ass.
Ya' I forgot this part - some bikes require the exhaust or rear shocks be removed in order to slide out the axle bolt. Some Honda's, Victory's, Aprilas come to mind -- I remember doing this to change tires.
 
I work slow, but not that slow. Unless your bike was dirty,
I'd charge extra for that, but you'd get it back clean.
 
So the axle comes out with 22mm and 27 mm sockets. Only have to remove the shift linkage bolt to get to the sprocket cover. That's about it.

Honda CBR650R. You don't even have to remove any fairings to remove the oil filter.

I'm more concerned with the mechanic's skill level if he takes more time than I do. The bike feels good so hopefully, he did a good job.
 
That's why I service my own stuff wherever possible, then I know if I did a good or bad job on it.
 
Oops sorry...got the OP mixed up with a different forum member (jemberlin).


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20201007_160338.jpg

Since they didn't bother to lube the chain, I was lubing the chain and saw this. Is this the kind of workmanship I can expect for $300?

I don't know whether to go back and ask them what they think.
 
Ask them to try again, that is not an acceptable riveting job on a master link
 
DEFINITELY take it back. That cracked pin is weakened, and in that application, that is not safe.

The tool that I have for riveting those pins has a stop on it to discourage you from overtightening it. You stop when you reach that stop ... you don't keep reefing on it.
 
Watch, :cautious: now they are going to say, you supplied the parts and they don't stock master links for that chain.
Order a cir-clip master link for it while you are there, they won't have that either.

... and they are going to tell you it's a maintenance free chain so you only need enough lubricant on it to stop the exposed surfaces from rusting.
 
Like, this isn't some guy in his driveway doing this right? That was done by a licensed motorcycle mechanic?
 

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