Quite right on my misuse of the term tension. I would have meant to use the word "sag." You're also right that using the sag spec in the bikes manual to the method I presented would (probably but not necessarily,) result in far too much sag. But the specification to use to set the sag would not come from the bike's manual, but rather the chain manufacturer's own specs. I somehow assumed (and wrongfully, too I guess,) that it was for a replacement chain, which would have had the sag specifications on the box. DID recommends between 20-25 mm measured like in this diagram:
http://www.sprocketcenter.com/UserFiles/486-Files/Image/D.I.D. Sag Pic.gif 3/4" is ~19mm. Why would it matter if it's a replacement chain ? Because you'd notice a difference in the instructions between the chain's makers instructions and those in the bike manual. The chain manufacturer doesn't know what kind of bike you're installing it on, so they show you the universal way of doing it. The bike maker comes up with an easier way for you to do it, usually with a special tool in the kit and a mark somewhere on the swingarm. If you change the height of the rear suspension, though... those specs might be out the window. A lot of people install lowering links, have adjustable length shocks, or have other ride height adjustments like pulling the fork tube up the yoke; all which will have an effect on the swingarm angle if the bike is sitting on the side stand while being measured.