Carb cleaning while you wait? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Carb cleaning while you wait?

bombshelter13

Well-known member
Hey guys,

I think my bike's carbs could probably use a cleaning, but my bike is my only vehicle so I can't really afford to leave it at the shop for days at a time. What are my options as far as getting a carb cleaning done without having to leave the bike at the shop? I'd like to ride in, get it done (I'll bring a book or, if permitted, watch) and ride off.

If I can't have this done at a shop I guess I'll have to take a whack at it myself.
 
Rosey Toes. Go early cus it will probably take all day. Not much to watch, generally they will just take them off, take them apart, dump the peices in the parts cleaner, and walk away... come back, reassemble, tune, done.
 
Seriously, I can just go in, no appointment or anything, and ask 'em to do it?

Figured from the sounds of discussion elsewhere on the forums that bike shops tended to be booked solid and ya needed to call in advance by a bit?

If it's 'not much to watch' that's actually even better... since if that's the case, after seeing it done once I'd probably feel a lot more confidant doing it myself.
 
They key part was 'come early'. =)

Btw, how did you figure out that your carbs need cleaning? Is the bike bogging, losing power at certain rpm? What symptoms?
 
ViperZ, the short version is that from a cold start, using the choke on it's own will cause the bike to die instead of revving upwards, but adding a little throttle will cause the RPM to jump to the number you'd expect based on the choke position and then stick there. I have a post about it on gstwins about it here where I go into it in a bit more detail and theorize a little on possible causes: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=56276.0. Since the choke and throttle cables seem fine that seems to leave some component being either stuck or clogged in the carbs.

I just picked up the bike a month and a half ago, and don't know for certain how long it was left unattended at the dealership, so it certainly doesn't seem like a cleaning could hurt.
 
I just picked up the bike a month and a half ago, and don't know for certain how long it was left unattended at the dealership, so it certainly doesn't seem like a cleaning could hurt.

Have you tried just putting a good dose of carb cleaner or Seafoam into your fuel tank and running it through that way for a tank or two?

I do it myself myself every spring, and it seems to have good effect on my very old bike. The bike runs well and I haven't had to pull the bike apart to clean the carbs the hard way.
 
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I've thought about that... I've heard some mixed results from putting Seafoam in gas on this model of bike, though.

I did take off the air filter and spray some Suzuki carb cleaner in the back of the carbs while it was idling, but I'm not really sure if it helped - I want to say it did a little bit, but not a lot. Maybe I didn't use enough. The instructions on the can said to use the whole can, but they sounded like they were probably for a car (the instructions mention an idle of 800 RPM dropping to about 500 when the cleaner's sprayed in, which sounds low for a bike but normal for a car... guessing Suzuki uses the same cleaner for both. I got it at a motorcycle shop (Snow City) so I'm pretty sure it's fine on a bike). I didn't use anywhere near the whole can.

I'm still considering doing Seafoam the same way, but am a bit wary of putting it right into my gas. Heard some horror stories of it dislodging rust in the tank and making things worse.
 
Have you tried just putting a good dose of carb cleaner or Seafoam into your fuel tank and running it through that way for a tank or two?

I do it myself myself every spring, and it seems to have good effect on my very old bike. The bike runs well and I haven't had to pull the bike apart to clean the carbs the hard way.

1+ On the SeaFoam. Previous owner of my bike didn't (from my observations) take the necessary steps to winterize it the way they should have. It didn't idle very smoothly and another GTAM member recommended the SeaFoam treatment with some premium fuel. I can say from experience that it definitely helps in this kind of situation.

You can find SeaFoam at Canadian Tire for $12, which is considerably cheaper than paying someone to do a carb cleaning. http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/FuelTreatments/PRD~0387800P/Seafoam%252BMotor%252BTreatment.jsp?locale=en

Here's the link which gives you the details on how to use it: http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use-sea-foam-motor-treatment.html#nogo But if you're feeling lazy you basically you add 1 fl. Oz to 1 gallon of gasoline. Like you I have a GS500, which has a 20L (5.3 US Gal.) tank that' means you'll add 5 fl. Oz of SeaFoam to a full tank of fuel. Its best to put in the SeaFoam just before filling up an nearly empty tank so when the gas circulates during the fill-up it mixes nicely. If you do that for 2 full tanks you should notice a pretty respectable improvement.
 
I'm still considering doing Seafoam the same way, but am a bit wary of putting it right into my gas. Heard some horror stories of it dislodging rust in the tank and making things worse.

It shouldn't dislodge rust. By mixing it in with your gas, you also get the benefit of giving your entire fuel system an internal varnish and gum deposit-cleaning enema from the inside out. You can't get the benefits of that type of internal system cleaning by just spraying cleaner into the back or throat of a carb.
 
You can also put it in your vacuum line, and a bit in your oil if you are doing a change soon (dont keep it in your oil for too long)

If you do put it in your vacuum line be prepared for ALOT of smoke. As in don't ride it until the smoke stops coming as people you pass by will choke on the fumes.
 
A couple of other considerations:

- Since SeaFoam travels through the entire fuel system it could help clean up any other parts which may have a varnish or carbon buildup.
- Rosey Toes ONLY takes cash so if you go that route bring some bling w/ you. Although if you need to go and get money after he's done the work he'll be cool about it. (that's what happened to me)

Edit: Was composing this post when turbo beat me to it....damn :p
 
Seeing as how you have to adjust the throttle to make the bike idle at the correct RPM have you tried adjusting the idle speed screw too in addition to the above? I had a carbed Ninja 500 and had a similar problem, dying or low idle, plus just bogging every now and then...adjusted idle screw and added a ******** of seafoam to the tank....problem solved after a tank of gas was run through it.
 
no mention of what kind of bike but because of the weather i can do it in about 3 hours while you watch and learn at rosey toes.
 
no mention of what kind of bike but because of the weather i can do it in about 3 hours while you watch and learn at rosey toes.

His profile and signature indicate he has: 2007 Black/Silver GS500F, naked. (Oh and my previous post indicated that we we have the same motorcycle).
 
ok its late and i missed that but its still 3 hours best education on carb overhauls for the time well spent.
 
this is how i do a seafoam treatment.

ride bike til reserve
add a can of seafoam
ride around a couple more km to ensure seafoam is mixed with the remaining gas and into the fuel system
let bike sit overnight
fire up the bike and smoke the neighbourhood
ride to gas station and add fresh gas


I do pretty much the same thing on my '78 Honda and my '99 BMW... just keep in mind you WILL fill your neighbourhood with smoke. It also works great for getting crusty old neighbours off their front porch!
 
Thanks guys. I'll pick up some Seafoam up on my way home from work today and try it in a tank throughout the remainder of the week and see if it helps.

If it doesn't at least significantly improve the issue, I guess I'll be waiting outside Rosey Toes when the doors open on Saturday.

I don't really object to paying a good mechanic to do the work, but if the Seafoam will help me out then it would be a bit more convenient for me if I could get away with holding out on doing a full cleaning until the 4000 mile/6000 km service (about 1500 more miles) and then getting everything looked at at once.
 

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