Better lighting ... here is how it stands right now. Really close, and good enough for a test ride (when the weather permits - and I am really interested in seeing how this works)
For now, I corrected the nose-down attitude by adding more front preload. At this point, overall it is only slightly lowered from stock, and that's intentional. I want to keep this streetable, and I know that extreme lowering will make a bike handle like a school bus (and cost cornering clearance and give no clearance underneath for going over bumps - and the first thing that hits the ground is the oil drain plug on these bikes ...). Also, with the ride height as it is right now, with me on it, the swingarm pivot is roughly 3 inches higher than the rear axle. Crunching the numbers (as engineers are apt to do) this still gives decent anti-squat geometry. It isn't as much antisquat as you would want for a roadrace bike, but this model has the swingarm pivot too low for that even in stock form. A good many slammed drag bikes have practically no down-angle on the swingarm at all ... which leads to pro-squat, which leads to people using solid links to replace the shock and/or using brutally stiff spring and damping rates ... not good for a street bike.
Little details: LED license plate bolts, has a DOT-marked red rear reflector (not the stock one - but nevertheless, it's there, and it's DOT marked), plenty of room for suspension travel front and rear, the axle nut is secured with a hair-pin cotter (for quicker tire changes) and the cotter is safety-wired to the axle adjustment bolts (so that it doesn't get lost), stock rear chain guard is trimmed for tire clearance.
The chain that I got came with a clip-type master link, which apparently everyone uses for drag racing, but in my roadracing background, those are not good. The clip is on there facing the correct direction and the clip is sunk into JB Weld and I safety-wired around that link to hold the clip in place before the JB Weld cured, so the safety wire is in the JB Weld, too. I think that's sufficient redundancy.
Wheelbase as shown is 61 inches.
Stock final drive ratio is 17-39 (2.294:1), what's on there is 17-45 (2.647:1) and I've adjusted the Speedohealer to correctly compensate for this and for the 7% error programmed into the stock speedometer.
That this still looks very much like a stock bike, and has all the CMVSS and HTA required lights and reflectors and they all work, and still has a chain guard, and will still sound like a stock bike owing to the stock muffler, and still retains the stock catalytic converter ... is purely intentional.
Obviously this is not a wild enough setup for someone running Pro Stock or whatever, but it should be fun to play with as is ...
