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Bike suddenly died (EFI). Where to start?
- Thread starter spitRR
- Start date
If you replace the fuses and it starts, please be sure and check the voltage at the battery whens it's running... I suspect that voltage regulator is shot and is spiking the voltage... If that is the case it will eventually damage many things... I have seen it take out the battery and Ecu..
Sent from my SM-G903W using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app
Sent from my SM-G903W using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app
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Lol That's reassuring.
The R/R was just replaced last year and is OEM not a cheap Ebay job, so I would hope that's not the case. Stranger things have happened tho....
Would a bad ground cause this?
Lol That's reassuring.
The R/R was just replaced last year and is OEM not a cheap Ebay job, so I would hope that's not the case. Stranger things have happened tho....
Would a bad ground cause this?
Trials
Well-known member
Grounds are excellent place to start, you can test them with a meter test, measure for resistance between the battery ground and the cylinder head and the grounding wires.
Then with a coil resistance and output voltage meter test right from the alternator and work outwards.
Rectum-fryer can't output correct power if the alternator is off.
Then with a coil resistance and output voltage meter test right from the alternator and work outwards.
Rectum-fryer can't output correct power if the alternator is off.
Bit of an update:
So I replaced both 20 amp fuses and she primed and fired right up just fine. I did a visual inspection on all the grounds and other wires under the tank and behind the fairings. Everything looks good - no chewed or cut cables, all grounds are secured nice and tight to the frame. I wasn't able to do a resistance test. With the bike at idle I was getting a good 14.2v. However, when I turned the highbeams on the voltage dropped to 12.4v. Normal?
I did find another oddity. Just in front of the battery is the servo proportional control valve. It was completely unsecured as both of its bolts were totally loose. If it wasn't for the plastic casing for the battery being so close to them, they would have just dropped out. The control valve was basically just floating / bouncing around inside. I'm not sure if this was the culprit.
I took the bike for a quick ride with a pack of 20 A fuses very close to home and it ran and sounded fine. All lights were bright, no flickering and no stuttering.
It may be running but I'm still not confident to go further than a few suburban blocks.
So I replaced both 20 amp fuses and she primed and fired right up just fine. I did a visual inspection on all the grounds and other wires under the tank and behind the fairings. Everything looks good - no chewed or cut cables, all grounds are secured nice and tight to the frame. I wasn't able to do a resistance test. With the bike at idle I was getting a good 14.2v. However, when I turned the highbeams on the voltage dropped to 12.4v. Normal?
I did find another oddity. Just in front of the battery is the servo proportional control valve. It was completely unsecured as both of its bolts were totally loose. If it wasn't for the plastic casing for the battery being so close to them, they would have just dropped out. The control valve was basically just floating / bouncing around inside. I'm not sure if this was the culprit.
I took the bike for a quick ride with a pack of 20 A fuses very close to home and it ran and sounded fine. All lights were bright, no flickering and no stuttering.
It may be running but I'm still not confident to go further than a few suburban blocks.
Trials
Well-known member
That's part of your wonderful ABS braking system isn't it
<- ( sarcasm intended )It is electrical and it is connected to an electric pump that also takes a Lot of power, correct? Absolutely could be related, check your wiring diagram and see if the fuse you are blowing relates to the ABSBS.
Voltage drop with high beams on and engine idling just means the charging system can't keep up with the extra load at idle. (The generating capacity of your alternator depends on how fast it's spinning.) If it maintains 14-and-change volts with the engine at (say) 3000 rpm and the high beams on, it's fine. (Chances are, that's the case)
...could mean OP has lost one or more phases from the alternator, which leads to voltage spikes.
Just wanted to bump with a bit of an update.
So I rode for the remainder of the summer - mainly local. I rode to work a few times, but not nearly as much as I usually do which is every day. Everything was fine with no problems at all until....
....one day in August when I last rode home from work and my bike died just a few blocks from the very spot it first happened. This time however, it started right back up. The moment I got home I checked both 20 amp fuses that blew the previous time and they were both fine. I'm curious if this is a heat related issue as both days were pretty hot.
Needless to say I'm puzzled more than ever and a little hesitant to go very far with her.
So I rode for the remainder of the summer - mainly local. I rode to work a few times, but not nearly as much as I usually do which is every day. Everything was fine with no problems at all until....
....one day in August when I last rode home from work and my bike died just a few blocks from the very spot it first happened. This time however, it started right back up. The moment I got home I checked both 20 amp fuses that blew the previous time and they were both fine. I'm curious if this is a heat related issue as both days were pretty hot.
Needless to say I'm puzzled more than ever and a little hesitant to go very far with her.
Trials
Well-known member
Best way to keep your fuel pump cool in hot weather is to have plenty of fuel in the tank, if it was very low on fuel at the time that could be a problem source otherwise unlikely.
I just replaced the fuel filter a couple of years ago - got probably less than 10000kms on it.
And I've never heard of low fuel being a possible problem, but at this point I'm willing to try anything.
This very well may be the culprit. What a PITA that's going to be to find.
Thx again for the help.
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