Bike stalled in traffic, wouldn’t start | GTAMotorcycle.com

Bike stalled in traffic, wouldn’t start

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SVeezy

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I was riding on the highway yesterday and ended up stuck in traffic, nothing new. Suddenly my bike stalls and won’t start, turns over very slowly. Thankfully a good samaritan pulled over right away to give me a boost. Hooked up the cables and bike fires right up. I rode home without issue.

I went out today to see if anything changed and the bike fired up again without issue.

I’d like to figure out the root of the problem so I don’t get stranded at some random time/place. I’m guessing maybe a heat issue due to being sitting in traffic.

The bike is a 2002 sv650. These first gens are known for electrical issues but I haven’t had any previously. Guess my luck may have run out.


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Likely the regulator/rectifier overheated - not an unknown problem. Get a multi-meter and check voltage output to the battery when the bike is cold and then repeat when hot, see if there is a significant difference.
 
Thanks TK4, I was thinking along those lines but don’t know enough about motorcycle electrical systems. I’ll check as you suggested.


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Make sure the regulator is in open air. I’ve seen more than one dummie relocate a reg to hidden areas with insufficient airflow.
 
Also check the easy stuff - battery connections and the negative connection to the frame. Wouldn't be the first time I've seen an electrical problem that suddenly went away when the bike was boosted (only to sometimes come back) be caused by a loose terminal at the battery.
 
I would start with the alternator outputs, that's where your charging circuit begins, if the outputs are no good there nothing down stream is going to work right or even test right.
 
Again appreciate all the input. Haven’t had the chance to dig in yet but I suspect it’s the r/r. My initial thoughts were that or the stator. I know the r/r is an issue on these bikes. I maintain it pretty well over all so don’t think grounds etc but not out of the realm of possibility. Once I get a chance to poke around I will update here. Seems like all my vehicles have gremlins suddenly lol.


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If you do replace the RR look into a Shindengen SH775. They are a series regulator versus the shunt type. Your stator will thank you.
 
3 yellow wires are coming out of your engine all through the same pig connector, all you need to do is measure the AC volts that are coming out of them to make sure they all read the same. There you go, according to the wiring diagram you just tested the alternator :geek:
Suzuki SV650 Wiring Diagram – Evan Fell Motorcycle Works

If the bike won't even start,
then you would test the resistance on each of those 3 yellow wires instead, and it should all be the same, or you found a problem.

... if the voltage outputs are way off you will cook regulators and rectifiers.
 
Trials said:
3 yellow wires are coming out of your engine all through the same pig connector, all you need to do is measure the AC volts that are coming out of them to make sure they all read the same. There you go, according to the wiring diagram you just tested the alternator :geek:
Suzuki SV650 Wiring Diagram – Evan Fell Motorcycle Works

If the bike won't even start,
then you would test the resistance on each of those 3 yellow wires instead, and it should all be the same, or you found a problem.

... if the voltage outputs are way off you will cook regulators and rectifiers.
Click to expand...

Good info, thanks trials

So went out today and fire the bike up. Again started no problem. Connections are solid. Ran some voltage tests at the battery.
12.3v key off
11.5v key on engine off
14.1v idle
14.7v just off idle
14.5v 3k rpm hot
Ran for a good 45 minutes and no dip from 14.5v. ?‍♂️


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SVeezy said:
Good info, thanks trials

So went out today and fire the bike up. Again started no problem. Connections are solid. Ran some voltage tests at the battery.
12.3v key off
11.5v key on engine off
14.1v idle
14.7v just off idle
14.5v 3k rpm hot
Ran for a good 45 minutes and no dip from 14.5v. ?‍♂️


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Click to expand...
11.5 key on engine off seems awfully low. There shouldn't be that much draw happening at that point. I would load test the battery to see if it is dying (which would make your charging system work harder to prop it up).
 
GreyGhost said:
11.5 key on engine off seems awfully low. There shouldn't be that much draw happening at that point. I would load test the battery to see if it is dying (which would make your charging system work harder to prop it up).
Click to expand...

Makes sense. Given all the other numbers seem good and the battery is now 4-5 years old it’s likely on its way out. I’ll probably just get a new one.


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You voltage tested the battery circuit but you still didn't test the alternator output,
& it won't be in DC volts, it is a 3 phase alternator, it outputs 3 separate alternating current voltage cycles on each of those 3 yellow wires.

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Trials said:
You voltage tested the battery circuit but you still didn't test the alternator output,
& it won't be in DC volts, it is a 3 phase alternator, it outputs 3 separate alternating current voltage cycles on each of those 3 yellow wires.

1Tr1lNiJGmM61Bu2mGJMzrfhmt78TyFyKl-YJGPFQOzLKOeED6nTiGyDHbIbs9AI7VnkB3mpUVvNp6yNCahY7PhlNg
Click to expand...

True. As I understand there is technically no alternator on this motorcycle. I also understand that the 3 outputs should all have the same output. What is this deciphering that previous tests haven’t? Not being a d*** I honestly would like to understand further.


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SVeezy said:
True. As I understand there is technically no alternator on this motorcycle. I also understand that the 3 outputs should all have the same output. What is this deciphering that previous tests haven’t? Not being a d*** I honestly would like to understand further.


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Click to expand...
You were measuring the output of the reg/rec. Trials wants you to measure the input. Reg/rec can cleanup a lot but of it has garbage coming in, it works harder and gets hotter.
 
a resting voltage of 12.3 is quite low

should be 12.7 or 12.8 at the very least

12.8 to 13.2 would indicate a good battery

12.3 resting volts indicates a bad battery -
 
SVeezy said:
True. As I understand there is technically no alternator on this motorcycle. I also understand that the 3 outputs should all have the same output. What is this deciphering that previous tests haven’t? Not being a d*** I honestly would like to understand further.
Click to expand...
The thing on the electric schematic labeled "generator" is a 3 phase alternator. you can tell because it has been drawn as 3 separate coils with 3 identical colour wires, all of which go directly to the rectifier and regulator. A rectifier changes AC alternating current into DC direct current using diodes. The 3 coils are arranged around the armature in 3 different positions so the electric output from each coil is out of phase to one another.
The regulator/rectifier combines the 3 phase AC output into a relatively smooth DC output.
... Now lets say One of those coils is putting out too much or too little power because it has an internal short :| You need to know that and you can't test it at the battery.
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