Best Battery for CBR

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Alright everyone,

I had charged my battery from home on Friday. Saturday I went to a shop to pick up some stands for my bike and I asked if he can do a load test. He only had a battery tester and it was tested at 12v flat. He said if the battery was charged yesterday and today it dropped by this much, the battery is done.

I took it home, put it in my bike and it started no problem. I had a feeling it was going to die again so I removed the terminals and had it charging while sitting in my bike the entire time. It was on my charger for maybe 2-3 hours while I was doing some maintenance to the bike. Once I was done, I disconnected the charger and tried starting the bike and the battery was dead. I hooked up the voltmeter to it and it was reading 11 volts. When I cranked over the ignition with the voltmeter connected, it dropped to 7, 6 volts.

I then boosted it, went riding for 5-10 mins and brought it back in. It was starting on it's own again for maybe 5-10 mins. After 20 mins later, dead again.

I can spend some more time on it Saturday to get to the bottom of it...

No alarm installed.
 
Don't bother wasting any more time testing. You need a new battery. You're way over-thinking things here.


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Iceman said:
Don't bother wasting any more time testing. You need a new battery. You're way over-thinking things here.


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Click to expand...

Agree. Will grab one next spring, the bike is being stored next weekend anyway.

Cheers to all

Dan
 
ddzc said:
Saturday I went to a shop to pick up some stands for my bike... He only had a battery tester.
Click to expand...
What - like a volt meter?
No load tester? That's not a bike-shop then (not a licensed motor vehicle repair facility).

Just FYI, a battery load tester, if you've never seen one, is not super high-tech or anything.
It's a rudimentary thing. It has an enclosure about the size of a CTC battery charger with one big voltmeter on it, and a button named "test".
When pressed, the tester will basically short your battery to ground - except it uses resistance, turning the electricity into heat, and the device will get really hot!

After the voltage has been driven down to like two volts on the meter (four or five seconds) - don't burn yourself - the button is released.
Your battery will either quickly spring back to 12+ volts again (pass).
Or it will stay drained, maybe creeping back up to ~six or eight volts (fail).

As I said, in my experience batteries usually either pass, or they fail miserably.
There is no real middle-ground, heheh...
 
Gryphon said:
What - like a volt meter?
No load tester? That's not a bike-shop then (not a licensed motor vehicle repair facility).

Just FYI, a battery load tester, if you've never seen one, is not super high-tech or anything.
It's a rudimentary thing. It has an enclosure about the size of a CTC battery charger with one big voltmeter on it, and a button named "test".
When pressed, the tester will basically short your battery to ground - except it uses resistance, turning the electricity into heat, and the device will get really hot!

After the voltage has been driven down to like two volts on the meter (four or five seconds) - don't burn yourself - the button is released.
Your battery will either quickly spring back to 12+ volts again (pass).
Or it will stay drained, maybe creeping back up to ~six or eight volts (fail).

As I said, in my experience batteries usually either pass, or they fail miserably.
There is no real middle-ground, heheh...
Click to expand...

It was just a battery tester, so all it did was check voltage.

I did do my own load test - http://www.yuasabatteries.com/faqs.php?action=1&id=30

Failed miserably.
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