Some drag racing science:
Let's say you have a bike that has perfect weight balance, 50% on the front wheel, 50% on the rear.
when you launch the bike, the centripetal forces of the rear wheel lifts the front, you hang a wheelie (or at least try to)
When hanging the wheelie, you change the weight balance, the weigh moves back. IDEALLY you want 1% front, 99% rear for maximum traction, which is seldomly possible without MAJOR changes to geometry, BUT shoot for all you can get.
Tuning for launch takes a bit of knowledge and experience, BUT launch is measured in the 60' time (reducing your 60' time is best, easiest, cheapest way to get ET).
So now that you've tuned for best launch, start moving mass around to see if you can improve the 60' time.
This is where the science comes in. Remember I said you have to know the difference of mass to weight.
Let's say your battery has a mass of 10 lbs. If you mount it directly above the rear axle, it puts 10lb. of force downward on the rear wheel. If you mount it 3 feet forward of the rear axle, hang a wheelie and get 100% weight transfer, that 10lb. battery is now exerting 30 ft/lbs of torque, so it is now exerting 30lbs downward force on the rear wheel, move it 6 ft forward, it is now exerting 60 lb downward at the rear wheel... magic weight, you're getting 60 lbs downward force, but you only have to accelerate 10lbs forward (that's the part that needs the HP)
So what you're going for is the mass as far forward as your launch will support... move stuff forward till you lose the wheelie, then back off a smidge
And then there's "squat"... it's a bad thing. That squat is eating downward force. You don't want the thing to squat (This is GOSPEL, don't let the idiots tell you any different... well unless you're running a G body, the G body "shuffle is a thing and you'll go nuts trying to get rid of it... just do the dance and HOLD ON FOR DEAR LIFE, or dump the bags and go with a 4 or 5 link)
AND: counter intuitively, you want to spin the tire on launch. Tires get maximum traction with a 10-30% slip (this too is GOSPEL)
If this sort of stuff is of interest to you, the best book I have found is the Direct Connection (Mopar Performance) suspension guide, available at any Dodge dealership, heavy on science, the car science works on bikes too... that spinning tire doesn't know if it's on a car or a bike, it's just digging for traction.
If I was running a land barge, I would do a "poor boy" alternator and run a switch to the regulator, run the alt in the pits, turn it off at the line, after the burnout, turn it back on when you hit the traps, where it will act like a rear brake
Do you want a real skinny 19" magnesium front wheel? It's your for shipping.
canadianbatterystore.ca
