Battery question - I think I dumb'd.

That's a nifty little unit but expensive for being basically a glorified relay. I did more of less the same thing with a $10 relay from Princess Auto.

I believe @Baggsy ordered one and has probably got years of experience with it now, there was a thread here about it a few years back.

 
Pretty sure it has a very small parasitic drain, if you don’t have the white wire connected to an existing switched wire. It will then turn the multiple connections on once the engine has been started for a few seconds. If the white wire is connected then the multiple connections turn on immediately. I like the facts that I don’t have to splice in, and it’s tidier than a fuse block or multiple relays.
 
That's a nifty little unit but expensive for being basically a glorified relay. I did more of less the same thing with a $10 relay from Princess Auto.

I'd go that route as well, but @adri expressed some reservations about splicing, so the Thunderbox is a splice-free, albeit more expensive solution:

I know in the long run I should just tap into the wiring harness and get some power from something that only comes on on ignition, but I don't want to start cutting into a perfectly good virgin wiring harness without a buddy who knows wtf he's doing supervising, and that won't be for a while.
 
I put the battery on the charger - Charger had a red BMS light, which I believe indicates it's ******. I left it on overnight anyway.

The next morning I checked the charger - it seemed to indicate the battery was charging. Weird. I left it on.

No, that light means it is charging a very highly discharged battery, or attempting to reset the BMS. If it switched to green after, then it has done what it was designed to.

The LED that indicates a bad battery is if the Test LED is flashing (not solid - that means it's analyzing the battery to determine which mode to use for charging).
 

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