Battery not being charged | GTAMotorcycle.com

Battery not being charged

Lah0re

Member
Hi guys, so I bought a used bike and the battery it came with got drained plus the turn signals on the right side both stopped working. I ended up getting a new battery before the next weekend thinking the old battery was probably dead, plus I wanted to ride. After riding for 2 days straight and going all the way around lake Simcoe and up to Barrie my new battery died on the way back plus the left turn signals stopped working. The bike has heated grips, a usb cable and a speed healer module. I'm pretty sure the alternator is gone, but any advice would be much appreciated...
 
You need to test the voltage output of the regulator / rectifier of your bike.
 
could be 2 problems
signals intermittent have nothing to do with charging system
but the fact that you do have obvious connection problems could be a clue
look at wiring harness plugs for green fuzzies or broken terminals
 
Those bikes are pretty stout. As has been suggested its likely a voltage regulator/rectifier problem OR it could simply be that both your new and old batteries are NFG. Its a pretty simple check for both problems.
 
One more thing - if it has a battery tender cable hooked up I've seen a couple of cases where the terminal screws won't tighten down properly because of the extra material under the screws.
 
One more thing - if it has a battery tender cable hooked up I've seen a couple of cases where the terminal screws won't tighten down properly because of the extra material under the screws.
No battery tender hookup but I don't know, pretty sure I tightened the screws pretty well on the new battery.. I will check the wiring harness connections for green stuff as I read sometimes the stator connections go bad.. let's see.. also, what's NFG?
 
NFG = "No F*c*ing Good". ;)
 
and if you find a hole in the crankcase or similar you use the term "fubar" - facced up beyond all recognition. heard fubar is an old military term.

op lets hear what the voltage output is with the bike revving a bit.
+1 cleaning/tightening connectors/connections is good maintenance on any bike more than 5-10 years old. ditto for grounds.
 
and if you find a hole in the crankcase or similar you use the term "fubar" - facced up beyond all recognition. heard fubar is an old military term.

op lets hear what the voltage output is with the bike revving a bit.
+1 cleaning/tightening connectors/connections is good maintenance on any bike more than 5-10 years old. ditto for grounds.
So checked it while at 5000 rpm and voltage barely jumps to around 12.. I ordered a Rick's motorsports stator as the battery is not being charged at all.. will try to replace it myself as shops keep quoting 2 to 3 hours labour.. also ordered new gasket.. engine oil.. looks doable from the YouTube videos I've seen
 
You say the voltage "barely jumps" ...

Does the voltage increase with revs at all?

There is a high probability that the actual problem involves the regulator/rectifier and NOT the stator.

Don't guess. The factory service manual has some measurements that can be done on the stator to check for open-circuit and ground-fault conditions. The other check is to unplug the regulator/rectifier and identify the pins associated with the 3 same-coloured wires going into the plug (Kawasaki usually uses yellow but they could be white). Those are the 3-phase AC wires from the stator. With the engine running, there should be a healthy AC voltage measured between pairs of those terminals at the plug for the voltage regulator (there are 3 possible pairs to check - do all 3).
 
According to the videos I've been watching if it's the regulator then the voltage would jump to 16/17 at 5000rpm .. the battery was around 11.5 with the bike off.. then around 12.3 with it on.. didn't go up much when I revved to 5k.. around 12.5 volts.. so that's why I figured it's the stator. I'm still going to get it diagnosed by a mechanic just to be certain.
 
Check and clean all of your connections. I once chased a similar charging issue on one of my bikes and found one wire in the harness near the stator that was not properly connected.

Unfortunately, I had already thrown money at parts that really didn’t need replacing.


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Update: So I did the tests. Stator cable combos all gave .7 ohms reading at 200 ohms setting on multimeter (should be between approximately .01 and .2 at 1 ohm setting but my multimeter didn't have that) Test was to check all combos have the same resistance. Then I checked voltage with bike at 4000 rpm and it went up to the 50s. Checked grounding and all showed infinite. So stator seems good.

Next I took out the regulator and checked all different combos at 200k ohms as per the manual and a youtube video on my bike. Both ways the resistance was showing 1 when it should be a high number one way and 1 the other. So it seems the regulator is the issue. Ordered one and will replace that first. I also put WD40 on the connector just in case.
 

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