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Attn. Bicycle experts.
- Thread starter inreb
- Start date
Roomie
Banned
Not really. I've been hearing that one for a while now although mostly only around the shop...
Thanking you kindly.
As you wish.
OK, it's about the wheels, bearing in mind it's an entry level cyclocross but still costing 4x a CTC bomber, should they be true from new? I'm sure they would be serviceable as is but they both have a noticeable wow. What's the protocol bearing in mind he cut me a screaming deal with me applying no pressure. I'd really like to take the wheels back for a proper true, actually the whole bike could use a proper PDI.
LOL, ya, when I test rode it the rear brifter
went almost right back to the bar with no braking power. When I tuned that out the disc hit the pad intermittently. I think that's just a function of cheap, imprecise parts. Gonna have to live with that. While the bike is very light compared to my cromo SS all those extra parts are gonna cut into the bottom line. While flashy this bike has throwaway all over it. Hope I'm wrong.
went almost right back to the bar with no braking power. When I tuned that out the disc hit the pad intermittently. I think that's just a function of cheap, imprecise parts. Gonna have to live with that. While the bike is very light compared to my cromo SS all those extra parts are gonna cut into the bottom line. While flashy this bike has throwaway all over it. Hope I'm wrong.So I took it to an independent bike mechanic today for a proper wheel truing and check over. Did a bunch of reading/youtubing on bicycle drivetrains etc. It's actually pretty straight forward, the mystery has been lifted. I think my apprehension came from owning junky 10 speeds as a kid. Kind of the same as mental block for fixing tubed motorcycle flats. Pinched a couple tubes as a teen rider so then had a shop do all my tire changes. Seeing this stuff explained on youtube really helps.
Are you talking 170 vs 175 mm? Because if you have a line on 195 mm cranks I want in!
Definitely a wrong fit with my bike. But IMO a proper fit will require 195 mm cranks, but the shops look at me like I'm from another planet when I ask. Sorry for the highjack inreb.
Not at all
Hate to come across like a whiner but holy smokes the shop owner told me I could easily mount 40c tires but the rim charts I'm looking at say no way. Maybe rim charts are just a legal cya thing? And the brakes I got are the worst possible, even worse than the Hays FMJ said to bury in the back yard. Salesman said it was just a bedding in issue at the test ride lol
Funny, I was in that shop about 15yrs. ago and picked a real sociopathic vibe from the guy.
Name and shame.
It's funny how things work out. I haven't paid attention to bicycle components since mid 90's when I bought some decent mtb's. So basically this time around I'm starting from ground zero. It was quite the process sorting it all out. Once that's done it doesn't mean my choices are available locally and/or in the right size so additional compromises need to be made there. Ironically an acceptable and available choice was at two LBS's I'd prefer not to use but, hey, I know what I want, so go in and buy it if the price is inline. Everything after that is just as much a game to me as it is to the sales dude. It shouldn't be a shock to anyone that sales dude will down play concerns, stretch the truth and pressure sell impulse purchases to an uncomfortable level all wrapped in the veil of new found friendship. I don't feel it's necessary to name the shop but I bet you could name the guy.
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I have an old cheap Minoura TBPF-25 you can have. IIRC I got it in a box of stuff from one of the ex's brothers. Looks kinda flimsy. Never bothered with it as I have a Park TS-6. If I can swing a deal with my LBS on their old Park TS-2 Professional (they've upgraded), I can sell you my TS-6 for a good price.
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